driveline noise/vibration

[Gorb]

Hoping to get some help with this one!

have a 2006 EB 4.0 with advance trac with a terrible noise coming from what sounds like the drivers side front end. the noise only happens when the accelerator is depressed and you're going more than 50-60kmph and seems to get louder when there is more load on the engine (when it drops into 5th gear its the loudest, but is still present at speeds over 60kmph in any gear but ONLY WHEN THE GAS is pressed, doesnt matter if just cruising or beating the piss out of it. even tried dropping into 3rd at highway speed and it's still quiet till you hit the gas)

SO far all of the the U-Joints have been replaced, both front axle shafts, swapped in a new t-case (slight improvement but not enough to justify the cost so the original went back in)


front driver side wheel bearing was replaced and all others seem fine. different set of tires were tried off a similar vehicle with no improvement. fuses pulled from traction control and 4x4 with no changes at all (although you learn that the 4.0 can lay rubber on dry pavement even with oversized tires)

We're at our wits end with this. any help appreciated.

 

[D Hook]

Do you have the stock tires/rims on?

 

[Gorb]

Do you have the stock tires/rims on?

no but they put a set from an 04 on it with no improvement.Currently running 265/60/18 duratracs. i know that could cause a problem but it didnt make the noise until recently. The bigger tires have been on for over a year now but the noise wasnt there until a few months ago (i first took it in in november) .

If those bigger tires broke something what would it be?

 

[Explorer_PL]

Can you put it on the lift and use a stethoscope and check the following:
Front diff: drivers side bearing, pass side bearing, input shaft bearing (or whatever the bearing is called where the drive shaft is connected to the pumpkin).

And I would listen to every rotating part of the drivetrain.

In the past month I replaced the transfercase since the rear bearing was shot, u-joint on the front shaft, rear wheel bearings and the car drives like new with 218k miles.
It was not easy to track down the noises since I had few going on, and the vibration would mislead you completely. I almost replaced the front diff and all I needed was the u-joint.

 

[F SANE IL]

I have the same problem i think.....

Changed out driver side wheel hub/bearing since I already had a pair of the front ones. Tried to run the truck while on the lift in a shop and it wouldn't go, i'm guessing due to RSC. I tried turning off traction and other variations with 4x4 high and low. nothing.

Not sure how to test where the noise is coming from but mechanic suggested its the front diff. maybe the side bearings or the pinion bearing, maybe even ring or pinion itself.

 

[Explorer_PL]

I am able to put the truck on the blocks/stands, turn off the RSC, turn on on 4x4 HI, I would wedge a piece of wood between the seat and the gas pedal, and using the power seat, I would slide it forward till it gets to a smooth 40-50 mph. Yes, it will jerk and shake at the beginning, also the steering wheel will go left and right so lock it somehow. Or if you have someone to help, seat him behind the wheel and gently accelerate. I was by myself thus why all the tricks.

Like I said, I was convinced my front carrier was grinding, but it was the u-joint. And I have over 200k hard miles on it. So I would not jump into replacing it.

 

[F SANE IL]

I am able to put the truck on the blocks/stands, turn off the RSC, turn on on 4x4 HI, I would wedge a piece of wood between the seat and the gas pedal, and using the power seat, I would slide it forward till it gets to a smooth 40-50 mph. Yes, it will jerk and shake at the beginning, also the steering wheel will go left and right so lock it somehow. Or if you have someone to help, seat him behind the wheel and gently accelerate. I was by myself thus why all the tricks.

Like I said, I was convinced my front carrier was grinding, but it was the u-joint. And I have over 200k hard miles on it. So I would not jump into replacing it.

That's exactly the problem I was experiencing on the lift. I thought I was going to kill it and didn't bother to go on doing it. The wheels weren't turning, the mechanic was telling me to keep going, but the jerking and the steering wheel going all over the place kind of scared me and I backed out of this testing method. Also, disabling RSC is just the traction button, correct?

BTW, I'd be kinda iffy in putting the truck up on blocks and just letting it run with a stick. What if it runs away, haha?

 

[Explorer_PL]

I have built heavy stands / blocks out of 6x6 lumber. Mine is not going anywhere
Yes, just the button for traction control to turn it off.
Yes, up to 20-30 mph it is a shaky ride, then it smooths out

 

[F SANE IL]

I have built heavy stands / blocks out of 6x6 lumber. Mine is not going anywhere
Yes, just the button for traction control to turn it off.
Yes, up to 20-30 mph it is a shaky ride, then it smooths out

Thanks, maybe I'll try it next time I'm getting oil changed. Maybe 2k miles

 

[Gorb]

is it normal for a front drive shaft on these to just pull out with no effort?

 

[Explorer_PL]

Once you remove 4 torx bolts in the front and 4 10mm on the TC flange, all you need to do is tap it lightly and use a small crowbar to take it out. No big deal.

 

[Gorb]

5 grand later and its still not fixed.

Driveline repairs:
Replaced Front axle assembly (diff included)
U joint on front of the front drive shaft. Rear one was ok
3 different transfer cases
U joints on both ends of rear shaft

Truck still makes the noise with either drive shaft removed.

Id say its in the rear axle assembly but the noise is only present under load from the engine but is still there even when the back wheels aren't getting any power (rear shaft off, front on in 4x4)

WTF is left!!? ive noticed that the noise goes away when hitting a bump (not a pothole, but one of those humps in the road if you hit fast enough youd get air) and the frequency/ speed of the vibration increases when cornering right. Still goes away completely when coasting and only shows up once you get going about 50kmph.

 

[Explorer_PL]

That sucks. Chasing that type of noises is a nightmare. Shops will replace parts based o their best guesstimate.
A friend of mine working at an Acura dealer told me they have some type of transmitter and receiver that they stick on a differential housing and listen to the noises.
I'd say any drivetrain shop should be able to locate the noise. Find a good tranny shop, usually they specialize in this type of stuff.
Or, get a used rear differential for few hundred bucks from a junkyard and try if you get the same noise.
Replacing the rear pumpkin is not that difficult on these trucks.

 

[Gorb]

The rear heater core went and I took it to a different shop this time. (just bypassed it, not worth replacing.)

Right rear CV shaft was cracked on the weight right beside the shaft.

Replaced it and now its all good