Driver rear window regulator

[tjsxplodr]

Does anyone know how to remove/install the window regulators on the driver's rear side? Mine is bad, I have a replacement reg/motor coming in, but I looked and looked to see how I'm going to fix it, but have no clue. Any suggestions???!!!

 

[CDW6212R]

Have someone experienced do the regulator. That is the one part in a door which can hurt you badly. It is sprung and when unbolted it springs free to a new position.

How do you know that the regulator is bad, that rarely fails?

 

[tjsxplodr]

I was told by the previous owner that it was bad. I took off the door panel, and sure enough there is a long wire in there that is completely busted apart. The motor sounds like its still working tho...

 

[CDW6212R]

I would have another person take a look at it to be sure it's the regulator. There is a very good parts source here, Karl Kubiak. The window motor has to come out first anyway, I would pull that and check the gearing in it also before messing with the regulator. A new regulator is not much from Ford as I recall looking a few days ago.

http://www.tascafordparts.com//index.do

 

[tjsxplodr]

The previous owner had it looked at and said it was the regulator.

When I took off the tie holding the window up, the window just fell right back down, I even tried using the window switch to see if it would go up, but it just fell. There is some long wire in there that is busted, and am not real sure where its coming from as I cannot get in there right to see what's up. Think I'm just going to have it done by someone...

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, the cable type of the older trucks is not as good as the later stuff. Mine do okay except for a vibration as it goes up, but I'm thinking of changing to the later type to see if it's better and fixes my issue. Someone else here was going to buy the used parts from a later window from Karl, for $40. The new regulator and center guide run about $75 from Ford.

See which parts are easier for you to get there, you likely only need the one part for a 91-94 rear door. Night,

 

[tjsxplodr]

I have found a window regulator/motor here for $50. Hopefully it will work just fine. Now I just have to find someone willing to put it in..

 

[Brian1]

This may be of some help - http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=248065

They are not too hard to replace. You just have to do some cutting and grinding of the rivets and then put the new one in with short 1/4"
bolts.

 

[tjsxplodr]

Oh THANK YOU THANK YOU!!! That was just what I was looking for!
Just noticed you live in Albuquerque, my parents live there I plan to visit them this fall.

 

[Brian1]

Glad I could help. Good luck with it-

If you are coming to Abq. in the fall, look into coming during the International Balloon Fiesta if you have never seen it before.

 

[CDW6212R]

That thread by Tbars4 is very good.

FYI, to remove rivets, first hammer out the steel center "nail" with a punch. After that is is easy to drill out the aluminum rivet body. Rivets are easier to reinstall like OEM, but small bolts and nuts will work also. Those big 1/4" rivets take a very large gun, which is why most people don't do that. I bought one from Harbor Freight for about $25 long ago.
Again, though, be careful with the regulator. If you can leave the motor attached, that should keep the spring from releasing and hurting you. Remove the glass first to get it out of the way, and be easy when removing those two rivets. Regards,

 

[tjsxplodr]

Glad I could help. Good luck with it-

If you are coming to Abq. in the fall, look into coming during the International Balloon Fiesta if you have never seen it before.

We used to live in Alb. a long time ago, before we moved to Idaho back in 1988. I don't remember the balloon festival much and so I do plan to attend this year

 

[tjsxplodr]

That thread by Tbars4 is very good.

FYI, to remove rivets, first hammer out the steel center "nail" with a punch. After that is is easy to drill out the aluminum rivet body. Rivets are easier to reinstall like OEM, but small bolts and nuts will work also. Those big 1/4" rivets take a very large gun, which is why most people don't do that. I bought one from Harbor Freight for about $25 long ago.
Again, though, be careful with the regulator. If you can leave the motor attached, that should keep the spring from releasing and hurting you. Remove the glass first to get it out of the way, and be easy when removing those two rivets. Regards,

Ok, so I don't know what a punch is, is that some kind of tool that I can buy? And what about the rivet gun? I will have my husband to help me with this, so I won't be by myself lol.

 

[CDW6212R]

Decide whether you want to dig up or buy several small bolts and nuts to replace the rivets, or spend about $30 on a big 1/4" rivet gun. Maybe a parts store rents those?

The stock rivets are like any, but 1/4" is a big rivet. There is a steel pin left behind in them, it takes a sharp tool(punch) to get into it with a hammer. I'm not sure if you will have enough access to the rear window rivets to knock those pins out with a normal hammer. Only those glass bracket rivets are a concern. It takes a strong blow to know those out, and you don't want to be hitting the part on the glass too hard.

If you can get something behind those two rivets to support the bracket while you hammer the pins out, do that. I couldn't do that well enough on my front window, the front glass has to be just below the top, to line up those rivets with holes in the door near the top. That other thread shows easy access to the rear most rivet that goes onto the rear glass bracket. That one should be no trouble to work with.

I used an air chisel to knock out the steel rivet pins in my front glass brackets. That is a great tool for that kind of task. Basically you knock out the pin, and use a drill larger than the hole there to drill out the rivet body. The aluminum pieces fall away easily then, and the rivet is gone.

 

[tjsxplodr]

Oh we have loads of nuts and bolts in the garage I could probably find an air chisel at a tool rental place here in town. Thanks for the advice, I greatly appreciate it. I'd rather do my own work than to spend money I don't really have to have someone else fix my rig

 

[CDW6212R]

Very good, with the right tools and effort, you can handle almost anything. This thread helped me also. Seeing that thread with pictures of the rear regulator and channel makes it clear that it's easy to swap the later parts into the older doors. The two main parts there cost me about $70 from Ford, the motors are the same. Take your time with yours.

 

[tjsxplodr]

Will do