Driver side front hub assembly | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

Driver side front hub assembly

gksnoop05

Member
Joined
November 23, 2014
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Explorer Limited
Hi, my 98 Explorer Limited AWD is making a grinding noise in the front only after driving long distances (over an hour) and when slowing down or stopping it seems to grind and/or bind. It's more noticeable when turning.

Do these pictures of the driver's side front hub assembly showing a loose ring provide any insight if the hub assembly is shot?


bearing1[1].jpg



bearing2[1].jpg
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Take the tire off and see if there is play in the hub
 






Take the tire off and see if there is play in the hub

Keep tire on, more leverage. Anyways, grab it at a 9&3 position and a 12&6 position and push in each position. You should feel some play if its bad.
 






That's the clip that holds the seal in back side of hub. Bearing is toast.
 






That's the clip that holds the seal in back side of hub. Bearing is toast.

if not yet, it will be soon, possibly also have issues with the ABS next, or it may become very loose soon, just replace it ASAP.
 






Or let the wheel fly off on highway... when the hub will break apart.
 






That ring is for the dust seal. Ford dropped them from their replacement half axles so it is not required for proper operation. It does turn with the rotation of the axle and will make a lot of noise, but it has nothing to do with the hub/bearing itself. The best course of action is to remove the ring then test the hub itself. That ring can be cut with stout snips. If you want to replace the dust seals Ford does sell them separately for about $25. Will need to pull the wheel, remove axle nut, unbolt the upper ball joint and let the knuckle drop so you can slide the half axle out the back of the hub.

To test the hub with the tire off the ground, grab the wheel at 9 & 3 and try moving side to side. If you feel slop, it is bad. Other test is with both front wheels off the ground slowly turn the wheel by hand and feel for any grittyness or resistance. It's a little hard to describe but you will notice a definite different feel of smooth greased bearings versus pitted or mangled bearings.
 






Thank you all for the replies and insight. Part of the point of posting the pictures was to learn a little more about what I'm looking at; I appreciate it.

I've been watching videos and reading posts on replacing the hub bearing assembly so I'm pretty confident I have everything needed for it and what to expect.

One last question for now, if I want to replace the cv axle at the same time that I'm replacing the hub assembly, do I still need to unbolt the upper ball joint to get the axle out, or is there enough room to remove the axle when the hub assembly is off?

Thanks again!
 






as I recall, you'll still have to take the top ball joint loose in order to get the axle out. I removed the entire knuckle when I did my front axle seals, but it probably wasn't necessary. the top ball joint is pretty easy to take loose. just remove the nut & bolt and it should pretty much pull out of the knuckle (rust might slow you down a bit). if necessary use a chisel to spread the knuckle open slightly.
 






You are right about the top ball joint. If is not rusted is a 5 minute job...
 






Quick update...I successfully changed out the drivers side CV axle and hub assembly. Interestingly, the axle and hub I removed looked to be fairly intact except for the dust seal which is shown in the picture at the top of the post.

I'm still happy I changed them, but I'm not sure it solved my original problem which I will have to create a new post for.

Removing the top ball joint did help in getting the cv axle out and back in.
 












Featured Content

Back
Top