E-303 Camshaft

[XLT_66]

Ok, i have done a lot of stuff to my Explorer, espesically since I am only 17 on a very limited, self-supplied i might ad, budget. I really want to wake up the Explorer, and i hear that a new cam is they way to go. I have already ordered the Hypertech Programmer III and new thermostat, and i am gettin a B&M Shift Kit along with that.

As far as everything else goes, what all is involved in putting in an E-303 camshaft?

I need to know first of all, where to get one, and what is a good price..?

What else needs to be done to the engine to put this in?

For a person who can do alot himself at home, and who has friends who work at a Mustang Shop here in Austin called Motion Dynamics, what all could i do at home and with a friend. I do have access to an engine lift if necassary, but i don't know if i wanna get into that...


Ok, that was a lot of blabbering...

Plain and simple..

What kind of other stuff and what kind of work is involved in putting in a new cam?

 

[Magicfan25]

I read somewhere (Cant remember at the moment) about them doing a cam swap in a 4.0 OHV. The cam is in the middle of the bloack on both, so I think it should be the same. You have to remove the grille, radiotor, fan and I think the water pump. That way the cam can be pulled straight out. Theres more to it than that, but I cant really remember

 

[Alec]

yup, you basically have to either pull the motor or remove most of the front of the truck to do it. Besides that, it's fairly easy I believe

 

[XLT_66]

With the E-303 cam, is it basically required to put in 1.6 or, if you had the powerband for it, 1.7 roller rockers...i think is what they are, i dont think they are lifters...

Is there anything else that it needs to run well? Is a MAF and TB upgrade required...?

 

[section525]

Somebody help this guy out! He's desperate! (Okay, maybe thats me).

 

[expo5.0]

alright, the install sucks. i couldn't have done it myself. (i didn't pay shop rates either so don't ask how much it would cost) but just watching the install off and on convinced me that i didn't want to really get in there any more than handing people the tools. lol. (thats about what i'm usually good for) you can go with the 1.6 and leave the stock tc just fine. the main piece of advice i have is to get a new chip or reprogramming after the cam. ( it took me a few months to do that and it made a huge different when i finally did)

as for other upgrades i would definitely have a new (like 70mm bullit or larger) mas and modified air box or k and n fipk as well as a catback exhaust system or custom exhaust system of some kind. a shift kit isn't necessary but if you can afford it go for it (i have a computer tuning only "shift kit" so it really doesn't do much, but its a ton better than stock still)

otherwise, I wish everyone good luck with their particular part combinations

oh yeah and one more thing, buy a blower... i've heard they really help the cam wake your truck up

 

[expo5.0]

forgot to mention the tb. from what i've heard and observed its not necessary. i don't even know if anyone other than troll (who knows whats in there) has actually upgraded there's

 

[section525]

Expo.. so why was the install so bad? You don't recommend someone atempting this on their own? Right now I have K&N intake, headers, exhaust, so all you think I need after the cam is a chip (and charger!)? Do you know how much parts were? Thanks!

 

[james t]

Expo- why was the install so bad?

not really that bad, just more of an "engine builder" project. this is NOT bolt on, and there is a multitude of things that makes this a "non-shade tree" job. also, EVERYTHING in front of the motor has to come off. radiator, grill, accessories. definatly not a job for the do-it-yourselfer, unless you have some engine building experience.

 

[sonkakaro]

what kind of performance does a better cam provide? How much do they go for/which ones are good?

 

[XLT_66]

with the E-303, do i need new lifters and valve springs?

 

[Guy Groves]

CAM swaps arn't so bad if you don't mind getting inside the engine. It is not a beginner project however. One problem on the X is just getting to the cam. You don't have to remove the engine, but you do have to remove the radiator, fan, accessories, water pump, timing cover and any other impediment in front of the engine (which you would have to do anyway). Taking the engine out does make it easier to work on the beast.

Making the best out of your power plant is not only changing the cam. To do it right there are other mods you will want to make to get the most out of it. Fortunately you can do it one bit at a time.

When you re-cam a 5.0 with the E303 cam you should also consider new valve springs. The E303 is an aggressive cam and the stock springs from a 5.0 explorer won't cut it. The other thing you must consider is the push rod length, you may need new ones of a specific length.

The hydraulic lifters are good, you won't need new ones.

You might want to consider new rocker arms. There are a variety of ones out there that go from about $175 up... and you get what you pay for. Most of the rockers are NOT adjustable, meaning any adjustments occur by changing the length of the push rods. You will have to adjust the rocker lash this way. There are better rocker arms that allow you to adjust the length at the rocker arm. This is a nice feature, but expensive.

I would recomend that you get a complete "kit" from the cam manufacturer. They have figured it out and know just what you will need. They can build you a kit with the cam, rockers, rocker mounts, springs, and pushrods (if necessary).

Regarding rockers....
You have two basic choices: 1.6 (really 1.62), and 1.7 (really 1.72) [there are some other custom ones but stay away from them]. The 1.62 are stock and do a good job overall. If you want more duration (lift) which is mostly good for high end power (> 4800 rpm) go to the 1.7 lifters. If you use 1.7 rockers you may need to change your valve covers as the stock covers might be too low.


In order to get the most out of the cam you will need to modify your exhaust and intake.
For starters you will need a larger TB 70 - 77 mm, your stock one is 65mm and will do for starters. The larger throttle body will improve response and get the most out the high end.

Your MAF will suffice with the stock TB. If you get a larger TB get a larger MAF, 77mm or larger.

You mention your exhaust is a flowmaster with a 2.25" pipe. Is this true? You will need to go to a 2.5 dual exhaust (a-la a mustang type dual exhaust set up) or a 3" single pipe.

Headers would also make a big difference, but I don't honestly know what to recommend. There are a number of people that have used the Ford Motorsport Explorer headers and like them. The seem to fit the best. Other headers from L&L Products, Duff, or others are typicall a better design, but have fitment problems, sometimes serious fit problems.

Then there is a new chip to set up the programming for the modifications.

After that you can consider having your intake and heads ported.

Then there are the injectors. Running at those higher rpm rates where you make the HP will require larger injectors than the stock 19# injectors. 24# will be needed and the more HP you try and make the larger you will go, I would not be surprised if you needed 30# injectors.

This in turn requires a larger fuel pump (190 or 250 lph)and most likely an adjustable fuel regulator.

The E303 cam will NOT idle very well, so don't be surprised. It will NEVER idle like stock no matter what you do. You don't run an engine with a E303 and other mods at idle .... you should be too busy leaving those imports in your dust, or running from the cops.

Seriously - Race responsibly please.... go to a track.

As you get things figured out remember one thing ... Don't run the engine lean.... You will burn it up.

Good luck

 

[james t]

the E303 cam will not idle very well...

hehe, thats the best part about it

 

[DarkFox1]

lol, "not idle well" is the sound of a well tuned engine I love the sound of a lobing engine, you might want to consider a higher stall torque converter to keep the uneven lobing from messing your transmission up. If you are gonna get a lobing cam that is. (I know nothing of this particular cam. .I was told that replacing my cam with anything except whats in my truck would put my trucks reliability under half, but I didn't research it beyond this.. its probablly a load of BS)

indeed, cam swaps are a PITA reguardless of how you look at it in an OHV application, but its not the fact that its difficult to do.. theres just a lot involved to get to the cam.. being in the middle of the engine and all.

good luck, I wish I had the $1k for a cam swap (as priced by a local rod shop) I've been told you can get anywhere from 40-70hp gain depending on the cam.

 

[XLT_66]

Ok, so around and around i go. If i get an E-303 cam with 1.62 roller rockers, what else do i HAVE to have. Like what can i live with for now, then go back and do as more money comes in.

I have a friend who works at a Mustang shop here in Austin, and he and I can get it done and i'll give him a few bucks and treat him to lunch or something. So, i won't have to pay shop prices. That is the good thing about it.

 

[section525]

XLT_66.. we might as well do two at the same time. But don't worry, I'll come to TX to you guys don't have to drive to CA.

 

[XLT_66]

Hell, i'm game.

 

[Guy Groves]

Here is my parts list with some cost estimates:
NOTE: When you change the CAM you are affecting the entire valve train. It doesn't always work to simply throw in a new cam. You will not get the HP results you want, and you will affect reliability for the worse if not done right.


Ford E303 cam - $179
PS: there are other choices in the $180 - $250 price range. This cam is good for 30 - 40 HP

Lifters: You should be able to reuse your existing lifters. Hydraulic roller lifters don't generally go bad unless some physical damage has been done. Clean them up.

Push Rods: Using this cam and 1.6 rockers should not require new push rods. You must check the lash to determine this. Shims can be used for some small adjustment. A set of new ones should anly cost $50 - 60. Check for excessive wear or other damage.

Rocker Arms:
You can reuse the stock rocker arms. Clean them up good and inspect them for damage, replace if necessary.

OPTION: Roller Rockers, good for another 10 - 20 HP.
Ford, Crane, Trick Flow all make good "street" roller rocker sets. Crane makes a low cost set for $180, Ford and others cost about $240.

Valve Springs:
Check with the cam manufacturer for recomendation. I expect that the stock springs are too soft for this cam. A new set of springs with dampers, shims, retainers, valve seals, and locks should cost about $110 - $130.
Also ask if the stock push rods are strong enough, they should be.

Gaskets:
New gaskets and RTF, I would guess about $75.

Misc.
Bolts : New lower intake bolts ~$15
New timing cover / water pump bolts ~$10

Timing Chain:
You might need a new one, check it for wear and stretch. If you can't properly time the cam because of a stretched chain, all is for naught. I would almost recomend you replace it anyway.

Stock replacements cost about $50
Cloyes replacement cost about $80
Upgrade timing gears cost $180 - $250

Expected parts cost:
Stock rockers and valve springs: $350 - $400
New roller rockers and valve springs: $650 - $750

Option:
Reprogramed performance computer chip ~$250


Next Project:
Intake / Exhaust

Dual exhaust (a-la mustang set up)
2.5"pipes, new cats, mufflers, labor: $900 - $1200

Single Exhaust:
3" pipe, collector, cat, muffler, labor: $600 - $700
(I did this, parts cost about $375)

Intake:
New, larger MAF (77 or 80mm C&L) / TB (70mm) and cold air intake (C&N type filter, fab you own intake shield).

Options:
Port the intake and heads: $300 up - all labor
Headers: FMS headers I think are about $250

Misc parts, and gaskets ~$200

Computer: reprogram chip for new mods $???
If you don;t have a new chip by now, get one.

NOTES:
Work out some of the HP numbers and air/fuel volume requirements throughout these projects. At some point you will need bigger injectors and larger fuel pump. (check out "mustang math" on the net. I have an excell spreadsheet that I am working on that has the formulas, anyone interested?).


Now for some good news....
Check out the mustang corral classifieds for some great cost savings on new and used parts.

I have bought and sold here with good luck.
You can get everything you will need here. Don't buy a used cam, but used roller rockers can be OK.

My 190 LPH fuel pump cost me $50 with shipping.

Check out Holcomb Motor Sports - pretty good people.
www.holcombmotorsports.com

Good luck
And as DarkFox1 and James t mentioned, a rough idle may be part of the excitement, so don't worry about it. It's only your mom and dad that will complain saying "that thing sounds bad". But again, isn't that the desired response.

 

[DarkFox1]

good lord, all those other expenses just for a cam swap? these engines must not have a very good composition if 1 little thing can provoke the need for so much spending. heh, forget that, just get a supercharger, it will be cheaper lol

 

[expo5.0]

if you hang out with some mustang guys or know some of them its really easy to find most if not all of those parts for peanuts. thats how i got mine, this dude purchased everything he would need to put it in his car and then decided to build a 347 out of it with a far wickider cam and i just sort of ran into him one day and we got to talking and made a deal or two. lets just say i didn't pay to much total (around 600) and i didn't even install it myself. i bet anybody if they took their time buying stuff and could find a reasonable shop could do it for under 1000 installed.