E-brake light not coming on after pad replacement

[EB4X]

Hey gang,
So after reading it's a headache to do the E-brake / parking brake pads on our second gens due to design etc I found some guy to do it for $60 labor. (First time in my life I paid someone to do (any) brake pads instead of doing myself.
Anyway, discovered when engaged the indicator light on dash is NOW no longer coming on, I assume the issue / re-connect is something somewhat obvious / easy, but to be lazy and not researching can someone SPELL IT OUT where it is / what to look for so I can quickly relay this over to phone to mechanic so he addresses quickly and doesn't flake ( "I only charged you $60....it's an old suv / connection....blah blah etc" )
P.S. It was working perfectly / consistenly just prior to this pad replacement so it's not the bulb burned out...

 

[donalds]

MY SPELLING SUCKS
I had this exact same problem
It was a dirty emergency brake petal switch under the dash
I didn't notice till after a brake job
Cleaned with fine sand paper
Don't need to remove anything just look under their with a flashlight
Worth a look IMO
Even with all the emergency brake cables disconnected
The light should come on because the switch is on the pedal

 

[donalds]

 

[Pete Deering]

Check the e brake petal assembly. When you replace the parking brake pads you need to stick a 1/8 " diameter pin into the e brake petal assembly. A few few time I forgot to remove it. Also the e brake petal assembly do then to fail I also replace my (autozone).

 

[EB4X]

Thanks Donalds / Pete... will look into this shortly.... seems like it would be the temp pin / gap procedure being it happened during pad replacement.
Will report findings / updates.

 

[EB4X]

Okay.....so I looked around up there, not able to see much other than a wired tab with a single green wire (assuming some ground) ....so took cell video blindly moving cell/camera up and around tight crevices.....then photographed this off video which clearly is the "SWITCH" ...correct?
Would the thickness / thiness of e-brake pads "transfer" down through the entire cable setup / mechanisms affecting how far the pedal (switch) is allowed to be depressed?? Thin, worn pads allowing pedal to go down further than usual ...? My inquiry, theory here is being the bads got/wore all the way down thus allowing the pedal to depress futher, which in turn pushed down harder on switch/ damaging or taxing it to such a degree it will not "read" the pedal where it "now" stops on new pads. I'm I 100% off on this ?? Factoring everthing in it seems plausable. Second question...do I need to remove / or loosen up the cable / pedal mechanism to replace this switch or can I work it up in there with most/all of setup intact ?

 

[C420sailor]

On the other side of that switch is the contact. It’s a little like washer. Clean underneath it. Sandpaper nail file thing (ask your girl) works well. Brake off opens circuit, brake on closes it. This corrodes slightly and light doesn’t come on

 

[Pete Deering]

Just replace the brake light switch. Its $20! The hardest part of the replacement is disconnecting the cable connector. I used two vise grips, one on each cable end and hit the connector with my air hammer. Cable came free. I'm in the rust belt. Unbolt the brake light switch and remove the cable. Install new part your done.

 

[1998Exp]

Just replace the brake light switch. Its $20! The hardest part of the replacement is disconnecting the cable connector. I used two vise grips, one on each cable end and hit the connector with my air hammer. Cable came free. I'm in the rust belt. Unbolt the brake light switch and remove the cable. Install new part your done.

Is the replacement any better? Because that "switch" is a joke - just a silly metal-to-metal contact with a tiny spring, all exposed - worth about 25 cents . A bit of unavoidable corrosion, and it stops working. I routinely clean this thing with sandpaper every couple years.

 

[Pete Deering]

Is the replacement any better? Because that "switch" is a joke - just a silly metal-to-metal contact with a tiny spring, all exposed - worth about 25 cents . A bit of unavoidable corrosion, and it stops working. I routinely clean this thing with sandpaper every couple years.

I never thought about why it fails. I just assumed it was a bad design. When you push down on the petal the stem releases and the switch closes. The parts counter guy, told me they commonly fail. I just replaced the switch. Haven't had a problem.

 

[1998Exp]

I never thought about why it fails. I just assumed it was a bad design. When you push down on the petal the stem releases and the switch closes. The parts counter guy, told me they commonly fail. I just replaced the switch. Haven't had a problem.

It's not a bad design, it's called "designed by bean counters." They forced the engineers to design a switch that doesn't cost more than 25 cents to make. Guess that switch is not considered a critical part, but nevertheless cost many people a lot of money when they drove without noticing that the e-brake was engaged and wore the pads. Most modern vehicles have electric e-brakes, so there is no pedal and no switch. Problem solved.