EGR or (DPFE) Sensor?

[DMCL2023]

Hi,

I am having periodic rough idle and stall, lack of power and hesitant running at speed. I have changed the IAC and the MAF sensors.
No codes are being thrown up. If I am changing the EGR valve is it worth changing the (DPFE) Sensor also?

Thanks

 

[shucker1]

Personally I would take a close look at plugs and wires first.

Any vacuum leaks?

 

[DMCL2023]

Good idea shucker1. No my mechanic said that there was no vacuum leaks.

Funnt you should say that about wires. One thing that is bothering me was when I was changing the IAC when I removed the electrical connection I saw only two wires in the wiring loom. Another wire in that loom was not connected to anything. It was just there apart of the bundle not going into the connector. Maybe it's meant to be like that?!!

 

[IronCurtain]

I'd actually change the sensor first, then the egr valve. They're notorious for failing. I was getting egr codes, engine running like u described, I changed the sensor and runs like a top now.

 

[lobo411]

Agreed on the DPFE sensor. The OEM sensors were defective, and if yours is made out of aluminum rather than plastic, then it'll need to be replaced sooner or later. The later version is made of black plastic.

I think I paid about $40 for it at Autozone, and all that holds it on is two screws. You can replace it with a nut driver and 10 mins of your time.

 

[SupaSwope]

I just had to replace mine recently, plastic fitting where the hose slips on dry rotted and broke. Hardest part was getting to the damn thing.

 

[1998Exp]

Hi,

I am having periodic rough idle and stall, lack of power and hesitant running at speed. I have changed the IAC and the MAF sensors.
No codes are being thrown up. If I am changing the EGR valve is it worth changing the (DPFE) Sensor also?

Thanks

Unlikely to be the any part of the EGR system if there are no codes. Perhaps the fuel pump is on its last leg (check the pressure) - there is no sensor for fuel pressure on older 2nd Gen. If your plug wires are old (over 50,000 miles since last change), they would be my next suspect.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

I'd look at your plugs and wires, that's also a sign of bad intake gaskets on the 4.0 SOHC but if you haven't got a vacuum leak, that's ruling them out, if the fuel pump was causing issues, it'd more likely than not be giving off a lean code.

 

[DMCL2023]

Great advise guys. Thanks.
It's annoying not knowing where the problem is but sure Explorers are worth the hassle

 

[96eb96]

EGR valve can cause an external vacuum leak. If you have another small leak combined you will get a code or driveablity. The code would not be an EGR Code, but a P0171/P0174. Best thing you can do is post fuel trims at idle, or it is a guessing game.

 

[lobo411]

Usually I don't advocate throwing parts at problems, but when it comes to the old style DPFE sensors (again...the one in the aluminum-colored metal packaging)...just replace. Even if it's not causing a problem right now, it eventually will because the design is fundamentally flawed. IIRC, the way they were designed traps water vapor that corrodes the sensor and eventually causes it to give the computer incorrect data.

If it's a plastic sensor, then you should be good...that's the redesigned version.

 

[96eb96]

Usually I don't advocate throwing parts at problems, but when it comes to the old style DPFE sensors (again...the one in the aluminum-colored metal packaging)...just replace. Even if it's not causing a problem right now, it eventually will because the design is fundamentally flawed. IIRC, the way they were designed traps water vapor that corrodes the sensor and eventually causes it to give the computer incorrect data.

If it's a plastic sensor, then you should be good...that's the redesigned version.

Still worth checking with a scan tool, but I agree, they do go bad, but I've have one running fine on a 22 yo car!

 

[lobo411]

Still worth checking with a scan tool, but I agree, they do go bad, but I've have one running fine on a 22 yo car!

If it ain't broke, don't fix it! ;-)

Mine never set any codes. The symptoms were that I'd drive it to the gym, which gets it up to normal operating temp. Then I'd park, work out, and drive home. Ran smooth as silk *except* when I'd made a stop on the way back at the library or the store. After sitting hot for 5-10 mins and then attempting to restart, it would idle like a buckin' bronc. Replacing the DPFE eliminated the problem entirely.

 

[DMCL2023]

Lobo411 that's the same as me. Sometimes if I don't stop it will be fine. If I throw a stop into a journey it acts up. I have the plastic DPFE sensor though.

 

[imp]

@shucker1
Surprised you have not come back to this one; yer frosty temps down there keeping you busy 24/7?

Mebbe you'll get to retire early!!

Best regards!

imp

 

[IronCurtain]

Again, I was having the same exact problems...... Would run fine til I go to restart it after sitting 5 or 10 minutes...would give me trouble so I throw it in drive and it would be fine driving... Until I stopped again. Was throwing an egr code though on and off.

Then fuel pump went, I replaced it, and also put in new fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, egr sensor, and maf sensor, and it's been running like a champ ever since. (well, after I realized the new pump I put in was bad and replaced it again).

Best of luck


Pic is of the new dpfe sensor

 

[smegun]

you found a dpfe with an older socket style? there were some otherwise you had to hack a connector off the newer type or god what I see here is of course a older type plug on a newer type dpfe :/ ….. first message I got off the paper clip after a head job was dpfe out of range lots of smoke and chemical …. I tried another one still have a check engine light even though the smoke is clearing ….. going to try the newer style one tomorrow I had it on before I started having engine trouble …. not quite up to speed yet but there is an engine at least now ….after the pieces ...the things that prompt you to get engine work done are still there when you get engine work done

 

[flashman302]

I'd actually change the sensor first, then the egr valve. They're notorious for failing. I was getting egr codes, engine running like u described, I changed the sensor and runs like a top now.

Whete

Agreed on the DPFE sensor. The OEM sensors were defective, and if yours is made out of aluminum rather than plastic, then it'll need to be replaced sooner or later. The later version is made of black plastic.

I think I paid about $40 for it at Autozone, and all that holds it on is two screws. You can replace it with a nut driver and 10 mins of your time.

Where is dpfe sensor on 2001 v-8 mountaineer?

 

[flashman302]

you found a dpfe with an older socket style? there were some otherwise you had to hack a connector off the newer type or god what I see here is of course a older type plug on a newer type dpfe :/ ….. first message I got off the paper clip after a head job was dpfe out of range lots of smoke and chemical …. I tried another one still have a check engine light even though the smoke is clearing ….. going to try the newer style one tomorrow I had it on before I started having engine trouble …. not quite up to speed yet but there is an engine at least now ….after the pieces ...the things that prompt you to get engine work done are still there when you get engine work done

Where is dpfe on v-8 mountaineer 2001?