Electrical plug needs to be replaced

[efiles123]

I recently replaced my thermostat housing on my 1999 Ford Explorer and during the process some of the insulation on one of the electrical plug wiring came off. I believe the wiring may be associated with the fuel injectors. I’ve temporarily fixed the issue by wrapping each of the wires with electrical tape do they don’t touch. I’m trying to figure out how to buy these. Attached are pics of the plug.

 

[donalds]

Its your knock sensor
Ford XL3Z12A699BA

1999 FORD EXPLORER 4.0L V6 SOHC Knock / Detonation Sensor | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

 

[Mbrooks420]

Just cut the plug out and replace it with a universal connector on both sides.

 

[fastpakr]

If you go that route, you have to put that connector on the sensor if you ever replace it... Imo, look for a wiring pigtail from a junkyard, eBay, etc and splice that on.

 

[Mbrooks420]

It’d probably be a lot easier (and certainly less time consuming) to swap over a $5 connector than source a GOOD one of these in the junk yard. Most are going to be in the same shape as is. And, there’s also a good chance that sensor will outlast the truck. In the end you’ll gain nothing from wiring in a pigtail, except more connection points. More connections=more chances of failure.

 

[fastpakr]

I understand your point. That would make me absolutely crazy though vs having the correct connector in place.

 

[Mbrooks420]

You better start farming tons of parts. These type of fixes are going to be the only route pretty soon as parts availability for these is dropping off fast.

 

[fastpakr]

I've never had trouble finding the correct connectors as needed. Often they're used in more than one place on the vehicle.

 

[Mbrooks420]

This brittle wiring is getting to be the rule on explorers of this age. You could probably find a dozen in the yard that are equally trash.

 

[fastpakr]

I don't know what to tell you...

We've both been dealing with RBV's for many years, but clearly have had different experiences.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Experience from years ago is moot when dealing with items that age out. This wiring was inappropriate for its environment, which is exactly why the original one failed.

 

[fastpakr]

This isn't that complicated...

We both deal with RBV'S (old ones). We've had different experiences.

Is it so hard to hear an alternate opinion?

 

[Mbrooks420]

Who said it was complicated? Why is it hard for YOU to hear an alternate opinion. Oh yeah, because you think yours is better…

 

[fastpakr]

I haven't tried to shut down your opinion.

You may need to back away for a moment and come back to this thread when you're in a different mood.

It's perfectly fine to put on a generic connector. It's just not the route I'd choose, for the reasons stated.

For the record, you can buy this connector brand new and not be stuck with a generic.

ACDelco Professional PT2164 Multi-Purpose Wire Connector with Leads , Black Amazon product ASIN B000IYY4C8

 

[Mbrooks420]

I didn’t try and shut down anything. If you want to go through the extra work of sourcing something original that’s still gonna need spliced in, go ahead. I was providing reasons to the original poster on why I’d go my route.

As for my mood I haven’t been rude to you at all, so I really don’t know what your problem is. But I’ll just duck out and you can be righter.

 

[donalds]

Just a thought
Tell y'all what I did
I took a pin for sewing
and used it to release the connector pin and pull it out
Slipped a piece of shrink wrap on the wire then slide the pin back in the connector
Then repeat

 

[efiles123]

Thanks for all the responses guys! I’ve already found knock sensor on ebay using the oem part # provided by Donald but it looks like it only comes with female connector. Looking at the first pic I need the male connector as you can see how the wiring has been patch with electrical tape.

 

[fastpakr]

Click the Amazon link i posted above for a replacement OEM connector.

Edit - let me check that again in the morning. I'm not 100% confident i posted the correct connector.

 

[fastpakr]

The more I think about it, the more i like Donald's solution of heat shrink tubing if you can unpin the wires individually to apply it. I do think it's worth it to get the marine grade version that's sealed/waterproof though.

If you want to do an OEM repair, I'm pretty sure the kit you need is Motorcraft WPT-994.

 

[BenDT]

Liquid electrical tape is amazing stuff. The kind for pond pumps is amazing. You can splice wires under water and that stuff really does hold up. Using a sealant such as “Quad” or a very high quality silicone, and cleaning the wires and plugs area with a serious degreaser, it will be water tight for 15-40 years depending on how well it adheres. Also a side note is the knock sensor is nothing but a microphone. It grounds out to the block inside the unit itself, thus sending back a signal. Just keep the wires from touching and touching the block and they will work just fine. If it does ever truly fail it will send your car into limp mode of the ages. One other caveat is that the super early sport models actually had the incorrect computers used in them. They will use the three wire knock sensor off of the same or earlier model econolines with the smaller v8 options. Ford says it doesn’t exist. And even the after marker people they use do no have the “ability” to source the part. I’m 100% sure it works. I hit 6k rpm daily in my truck without missing a beat. I was misinformed that all 3 wire knock sensors are actually Hall effect sensors. This is not correct as the assembly of the knock sensors is identical with both being the “pizzo” electric type or whatever it’s called (microphone).