Engine hesitates with accelerator push... | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

Engine hesitates with accelerator push...

Hey Alec - Yeah, I had it replaced by a an oil change place when I got the truck at 70K miles. A friend of mine who is knowledgeable with engines drove it and is convinced that the kid never changed it!!

Thanks!

JD
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





hi guy's i also have this problem and it is going in for a 150,000kms major service to ford on friday but can you please tell me what the IAC, TPS, PCV, CEL are????
thanks
 






IAC - Idle Air Control
TPS - Throttle Position Sensor
CEL - Check Engine Light
PCV - Pressure Control Valve

I think these are correct. Im just a backyard mechanic so the other guys may have to correct me on this. The IAC and the TPS are very easy to replace. The PCV is not so easy to replace, becuase it's behind the engine - but costs ya like 4 bucks!

JD
 






PEP BOYS SUCKS!!!!!!!!!!

I took the truck to a mechanic. So far they said that they did an arch test and that one of the wires is bad.
I just had the pugs and wires replaced at a Pep Boys in Farmington Hills, Mi this past fall. Well so far that is one major issue, so we'll se how it runs after tonite. I am having them replace the fuel filter and the PCV valve, too. I will never go to a Pep Boys again. They won't help out on a reimbursement because I didn't take it to a Pep Boys to fix the problem.

Go ahead - give 'em a call and tell 'em how much they suck 248.476.5210 and Ask for my buddy Adam.

UHHHHGGGG!!!!!!!!!!!!!

JD:mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:
 






Mike , I just read the symptoms you posted and they are exactly the same symptons I had .I actually thought the trans was unlocking and then locking , but my trans guy told me it was the engine . After changing the plugs and wires It got better , but had problems only under load . When you have more load , there is more fuel , if your spark isnt hot enough youll get incomplete combustion , also check to see if theres any arcing around the tower of each coil . Ive seen these crack and create similar problems . Was the TPS replaced , was it checked with a dvoc meter ? Keep us posted .
 






Oh , almost forgot , I know theres a known problem with 302 plug wire routing , I believe it was with #3 and #4 cylinders . They can cross fire if ran next to each other . I believe there was a service bullitan in regards to this and was also told by a reputable mechanic also . THis cross firing could cause the wire to fail prematurely .Hope this helps.
 






Hey JD we must be neighbors , I hate going that pep boys , What about Murrays across the street . I live about a mile from there and have pretty good luck with them and the quality of the parts are pretty good also.
 






Strike12:

The Murray's is fine. Bought my shocks there - But I tell you - Pep Boys has screwed me more than once with shoddy work and materials. Sucky suckington. El crap-O.

JD
 






THE VERDICT.

Shoddy wires and Bosch plugs. Don't use them. I was told that the wires and plugs were premium and they weren't. Just go with the OEM stuff.

So as of now - that was the problem.

I will post if I find any problems remaining. This is due to the fact that some other members found temporary power regained after new plugs and wires were put in - but some symptoms came back.

And - for the love of God - do not take your automobile to Pep Boys - EVER.

Three hundred bucks later (X2) -

JD:) :( :)
 






JD - Glad to hear you got your prbolem taken care of.

wmak8

BTW, I see you are running Monroe Sensa Trac Shocks. How are they? My stock shocks must be shot. The ride is kinda crappy. Okay, its very crappy. Was thinking about changing the shocks.
 






JD
Glad to here you might have solved your problem , I was leaning on the ignition thing , thought that was probably the cause . Sorry you had to spend so much dough though . Remember if it seems better and still has some probs like i had , look at that coil pack , it might be weak . Yes its not a matter if they work or not , they will get weak , shorted windings inside the pack will cause a weak secondary voltage , and not actually fail all together . Not to many people consider this when doing tune ups but the hotter the spark the more complete combustion youll have. I always check my secondary voltage when i have a no CEL situation and has remendied many problems quickly. Coils are like a transformer and they have windings , Sometimes in oil sometimes not , doesnt really matter , half that coil can short out , sometimes the insulation gets so hot it melts off and actually will leave you with only 5,000 volts . Thats not good , most coils produce 10,000 to 20,000+volts , if Im not mistaken , its been awhile. When putting in quality wires , which are bigger , sometimes , And create less resistance , they can actually help , but never fix the problem . Before you do a wire change make sure you test the wires with a ohm meter and flex the wire along its path make sure there isnt high resistance and no opens . The stock wires are great . You dont need hi-po wires to send that kind of voltage , of course if you modify , youll need a hotter spark , thus a bigger wire( at least 8mm)Bosch is not gonna make your x run better , always look at size . Sorry you got sold on hyp , but id like to look at the wires they condemed , Im still not convinced thats the problem . Especially if they say it was the #3 or #4 wire , because those 2 wire always get the weakest spark = longest . Let me know whats up.
 






Wmak8:

Well, you know this could open a can of worms here! For me - the Monroe shocks were a good choice. I do mainly paved road driving, and sometimes hit a two track in northern michigan, so for me, they are perfect. If you do off roading or anything, you might want to look into the Rancho's or some other beefy and adjustable shock. These shocks work great for me, and I never had skidded much - which is common with Explorers. They are also affordable. Overall - great shocks.

Hope that helps.

JD

Ps. Search for "shocks" and you will get a ton of opinions. That's how I made my decision.:p
 






Strike12:

I work in Southfield and have my plugs and wires if you want to see them. So far the truck rides very smoothly. I can meet you somewhere and we can compare our trucks side by side to see what's up.

JD
 






Originally posted by Jake's Dad
I wonder what that noise is behind the engine though. It only happens when the engine is stressed from acceleration.....or if you really push it.

Do you still have this noise after all your problems are fixed? If you do, it's likely that it's a cracked exhaust header, or a cracked EGR pipe. My driver's side exhaust header produced this same noise: clicking when cold, bad clicking when under stress, OMG clicking when hot outside and under stress. It turned out that my exhaust header was cracked at the EGR tube and was replaced under warranty.

I don't know if it's still a problem - but I just wanted to chip in :)

Ry.
 






Rvitek:

So far I haven't heard the tick tick tick when I put it under load. I've only driven it about 30 miles so far - so I am waiting ~ and listening ~ for any sounds or problems.

Thanks for your input. Glad to recieve it.

JD

To All:

I will post anything I find in the future just for records for anybody else who may have this problem.
 






Engine hesitates?

Sorry guy's but i am pretty happy to hear that i am not the only one who has come across this engine problem, i have been baffled with this along with Ford for a while now! I am from Australia and i have onle recently stumbled across this forum due to one of the Explo boy's on sounddomain.com and it's a great forum!
It's hard to explain but if i am accelerating from a stand still and floor the gas pedal my explo goes into this kinda slow motion and after about 10 seconds it fire's up and starts going properly and if i am driving up a hill and give the gas a little more it seem's like the engine cant make up it's mind whether to drive up the hill in low gear or high gear it kinda shifts from slow mode to faster mode and back and forth and the only way to break this cycle is to back off the gas pedal a bit.
My CEL is currently on and i get a strange humming noise from the motor when it hot like a harmonica sound. Ford Down here told me that it was the KKn air filter that overload's the engine with hot air from the engine therefore making it feel slugish at times, but i know this can't be right cos it run's better with the filter than it did with the stock air box!!! Anyway i am going in for a Major 150,000 KM's service tommorow so i'll let you know if it feel's better after the spark plug and wire's, fuel filter change and what the CEL is on for i hope it does'nt cost too much!

also how can i put i photo of my car next to my name on these post forum's?
 






vbtruk, you need to replace your IAC.

As for your other problems, it sounds like you can start by doing a tune-up. PCV, plugs and wires, clean MAF and throttle body, and change the fuel filter.
 






PCV IAC

Can i change the PCV valve and IAC myself? Where can i find out how to do this?
 






Im leaning towards the maf sensor , you can do your own tests to do check it .
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Oh , also make sure you havent picked up some road trash and dislogged it in your intake system , common problem.
 






Featured Content

Back
Top