Engine rebuild.

[janolsson]

OK guys yesterday and this afternoon i took the front timing cover, the ladder rack and the rear cassette off the spare lump to see what i need to order to rebuild.

This was running well but started rattling from the rear chain and was losing oil pressure at idle. On inspection the rear guide was wedged down the back and the chain had been rubbing on the upper cassette securing bolt.

I have also dismantled the oil pump and it's piston is very worn and the rotor assembly is worn and scored so this will be replaced.

The left valve cover has had a weld on the side at the front that indicates at some point the front chain has had some attention. This was backed up when i took off the timing cover and the main chain and front cassette are all the updated gear and in v good nick. The balace shaft tentioner however had not been replaced and is cracked but still in one piece.

Pulled of one of the bearing caps for one of the con rods and the bearings and crank are in very good shape.

The rear jackshaft bolt did not want to come undone so i got busy with my drill.
So in summary new rear cassette, jackshaft bolt and cover, balance shaft tensioner, timing cover gasket, upper pan gasket, front and rear tensioner,restrictor pencil, oil pump parts and a damn good clean (may even paint this one aswell) and it'll be good to go.

The reason i'm posting is that as the thing is in bits does anyone want any particular photos???

 

[SB98UKexplorer]

have you found the knock sensor? its on the block where the lower intake fits, i dont know if our 4.0 have this..

 

[janolsson]

have you found the knock sensor? its on the block where the lower intake fits, i dont know if our 4.0 have this..

there are no sensors in that area. I assume you mean in the valley.

 

[SB98UKexplorer]

yea in the valley i mean, ok cheers, just wonderd if we had those on ours

 

[2000StreetRod]

knock sensor

I'm surprised that there is no knock sensor like the ones below on your engine.

Do you have higher octane fuel in the UK?

If your engine has the variable intake system I'd like to see a photo of the lower intake manifold showing the intake runner control if it's not any trouble.

 

[jcasey007]

I've not seen this knock sensor on my car and I've had the manifolds off many times,

what is the intake runner control, The lower manifold is just a chunk of plastic.

 

[janolsson]

Yes as jim says we do not have the knock sensor on our engines, the 96/97 i'm workin on and the 98 anyway. don't know about the later engine spec 99/2000.
As for fuel i think we have 97 Ron as standard and i think i remeber reading somewhere that our octane rating is slighly different than US ie our 97 is the same as US 99 or something like that.

Edit : Our standard gas is 95 ron

 

[2000StreetRod]

VIS engine

The variable intake system (VIS) engine was available in the US on the 1997 and 1998 SOHC V6 engines. It incorporated variable intake runners under PCM control. A vacuum solenoid would be energized around 3,000 rpm that activated a vacuum motor that rotated a lever/rod connected to the intake runner control. The photo below shows the vacuum motor and lever control aft of the IAC valve.

I don't know if the variable intake runners were located in the lower or upper intake manifold.

 

[janolsson]

Hi dale
I thought you were refering to the variable intake. Yes ours is the same as US spec in the respect that we have the VIS located on the upper intake. As jcasey said the lower is just a block of plastic that extends the height of the intake, a spacer if you will.

 

[janolsson]

Ok guys if no specific pics needed i'll just take some random ones for interest sake and post them. This will be in a couple of weeks as i've gotta get the stuff to put it back together.

 

[janolsson]

Some pics of the front chains

The front tensioner, guide and cassette have been replaced at some point and are in great shape.
You can see in the photo below the tensioner is the updated one with extra leaf springs

The plastic guide on the balance shaft tensioner however has broken into 3 pieces but is still in situ shown below to the left of my finger

The guide for the rear cassette came out in pieces and was wedged in the block

Because the guide was missing the chain had worn away at the mounting bolt

And lastly i have a photo of the rear oil tensioner for the rear cassette. The reason for this is it is very different to the ones i've seen before. I did a thread in the US part to see if anyone had seen one like this and i think 1 person said yes. The photo shows it on the right next to a newer version. It is approx the same length but instead of one large oil port it has four smaller holes and the plunger has a step to a smaller diameter where it meets the cassette.

The parts i need to rebuild are being shipped at the mo. Just got to order the bits for the oil pump from the local ford dealer and i'll have everything. Should only take an afternoon to put it all back together if i can remember what goes where.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Jackshaft rear plug

Jan, I'm interested in what your replacement jackshaft rear plug looks like and which way you install it? I still don't know if I installed mine correctly but I don't seem to be having any problems.

 

[janolsson]

Jan, I'm interested in what your replacement jackshaft rear plug looks like and which way you install it? I still don't know if I installed mine correctly but I don't seem to be having any problems.

on the motor i'm runnin i installed it rubber side out as this appeared to be similar to stock (it was from a kit not OE). Once i get my new OE one i'll see if it matches the old one and let you know but i'm sure the old one was rubber side out.
sorry don't hav any pics but will get something for you tommorrow.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Jackshaft plug orientation

The photo below shows my stock plug as I started to remove it.

The metal side is out.

The photo below shows the rubber side of the replacement plug.

As shown in the photo below the top of the jackshaft rear sprocket bolt is just slightly lower than the bottom of the plug opening.

The new plug has a cup that is slightly larger in diameter than the head of the bolt. When the plug is installed with the bare metal side out there is more clearance between the rotating bolt head and the plug. Another factor is I didn't like the idea of hitting the rubber covered side with something to drive it in. Also, I decided to paint the block Ford blue and the paint will adhere to the metal side much better than the rubberized side. I used my trusty 36mm socket to drive it in. It was necessary to relocate one of the engine stand support arms in order to drive it squarely. The completed installation is shown in the photo below.

 

[kevin p]

Hi Jan.
I'm lucky that in 8 years of owning my Ex, It has never had any chain issues.
The photos you are taking of various parts are superb for someone who is trying to resolve a problem. Excellent mate.
Kev.

 

[chrisquelch]

hi all
i dont think it will matter if the rubber side is in or out as long as it has rubber around the edge to form a seal to the block and clearance of the sprocket bolt if its to close to the bolt and there is forward and backwards movment in the jack shaft it could wear throug the plug. and may make a tapping noise.

 

[janolsson]

Hi Jan.
I'm lucky that in 8 years of owning my Ex, It has never had any chain issues.
The photos you are taking of various parts are superb for someone who is trying to resolve a problem. Excellent mate.
Kev.

Thanks Kev
That was why i was doing it. I read a lot of threads when i first tackled the chains on the original engine and i found a picture speaks volumes for understanding. Also we got a couple of guys here in UK that are looking at tackling this job so i thought they may benefit.

PS shackles are on and soooo cool, got 34 1/4 inches to wheel arch all round!

 

[janolsson]

Dale and chris
I tend to agree with chris on this one. The depth from the lip to the face on the metal side is marginally greater than the depth of the recess on the rubber side. So long as the cover is fitted flush to block face then you will get 7-8 mm clearance at least.

 

[janolsson]

update

Friday i picked up my parcel from tasca with my new bits including new jackshaft bolt (torque to yield) and new upper mounting bolt for the rear cassette, shown below

I also picked up the innards for the oil pump as i rebuilding this as, if i sell the engine, i want to know it'll have good pressure. The only problem is one of the gaskets for the pump is still on order so i cannot refit it and fit the upper sump yet.

Below is another picture of the broken balance shaft tensioner showing the broken guide i referred to in previous post. The crack was barely visible when fitted but as you can see in the photo it was just a matter of time before the plastic pieces and the leaf springs ended up floating around in the engine.

So today i fitted the new rear cassette, the new balance shaft tensioner and the restrictor pencil. Tomorrow i'm gonna refit the front cover and balancer to allow me to time the cams.
:

 

[blueka]

I gave up on rebuilding my V6.... gonna fit a V8 and be done with it....


Si