Engine rebuild.

[janolsson]

I gave up on rebuilding my V6.... gonna fit a V8 and be done with it....


Si

Hey Si
as you know we don't have that luxury!
Oh and congrats on the court award. now as soon as they pay up you can get nuts deep in a V8:

 

[janolsson]

Nearly done!

Today got done what i wanted to. put the front timing cover and balancer on and timed the cams.
Before putting the timing cover on i spent the best part of an hour cleaning the mating surfaces with a stanley blade and brake cleaner. There was a lot of silicon all around it so whom ever previously removed it prob didn't bother with a new gasket and just smothered it with the stuff.
As i'm doing this properly it's clean surfaces and a new gasket and new balancer bolt!!!

prior to refitting i also gave the outside of it a clean with oven cleaner and the bolts with a wire brush.

turned out alright.
When it came to timing the cams i found that the left one was a little out.so i sorted that then did the right one. The manual says to do the right one first but i did it the other way around. Turned the engine by hand a few times and the timing was bang on on both cams each time.

just gotta wait for the gasket to button up the bottom end.

 

[jayjay101]

looks good mate not giveing this one the paint treatment?mines nearly done ready to put in on the 25th

 

[janolsson]

looks good mate not giveing this one the paint treatment?mines nearly done ready to put in on the 25th

No just makin sure it is fixed properly and generally clean.
I'll be selling it once done so i don't want to impose my taste on the new owner.

 

[janolsson]

Done

Well finally got the gasket for the oil pump i was waiting for.
So bottom end i fitted the balance shaft chain tensioner

Then onto the oil pump. I replaced the rotor assy and the piston and spring. Total for the bits including the 2 gaskets for the oil pick up pipes was about £45. But now i know its good for 100K miles or so. Below shows the pump with the new gasket for the upper pick up pipe.

There is no gasket for the oil pump to block which i find odd but i suppose it works. Before refitting i filled with oil and spun the rotor assy to prime it. If any of you do this please remember to put the shaft back in before you mount the oil pump and start fitting the upper sump, oops !!!! Further priming can be done once the bottom is all buttoned up and filled with oil. You can remove the drive gear in the valley at the rear that is clamped with a bolt. Just pry up with a flat screw driver. You can then put a 9mm socket on the top of the oil pump shaft to manually spin it. Do this with no filter and you can check oil comes out of the filter mount.

Then on to the upper sump. New gasket and spotless mating surfaces and sealant where specified. Important to follow the procedure here and get the position relative to the rear of the block bang on. If out of spec here, as the tranny bolts into the upper sump with its 2 bottom bolts it can push or pull on the sump and break the seal, causing massive oil leaks. (side note the torque specs on most of the upper sump bolts is 10Nm and the inserts for the 8 main bolts is 4Nm so you need a sensitive torque wrench.)

So now it's done apart from fitting the new hydraulic tensioners (can't find my 27mm deep socket to torque them).
Here it is with the rear jack shaft cover fitted and the crank case breater and thermostat housing refitted.

Thanx for looking

PS if you need an engine it is now on ebay

 

[cjmedina]

Well finally got the gasket for the oil pump i was waiting for.
So bottom end i fitted the balance shaft chain tensioner

Then onto the oil pump. I replaced the rotor assy and the piston and spring. Total for the bits including the 2 gaskets for the oil pick up pipes was about £45. But now i know its good for 100K miles or so. Below shows the pump with the new gasket for the upper pick up pipe.

There is no gasket for the oil pump to block which i find odd but i suppose it works. Before refitting i filled with oil and spun the rotor assy to prime it. If any of you do this please remember to put the shaft back in before you mount the oil pump and start fitting the upper sump, oops !!!! Further priming can be done once the bottom is all buttoned up and filled with oil. You can remove the drive gear in the valley at the rear that is clamped with a bolt. Just pry up with a flat screw driver. You can then put a 9mm socket on the top of the oil pump shaft to manually spin it. Do this with no filter and you can check oil comes out of the filter mount.

Then on to the upper sump. New gasket and spotless mating surfaces and sealant where specified. Important to follow the procedure here and get the position relative to the rear of the block bang on. If out of spec here, as the tranny bolts into the upper sump with its 2 bottom bolts it can push or pull on the sump and break the seal, causing massive oil leaks. (side note the torque specs on most of the upper sump bolts is 10Nm and the inserts for the 8 main bolts is 4Nm so you need a sensitive torque wrench.)

So now it's done apart from fitting the new hydraulic tensioners (can't find my 27mm deep socket to torque them).
Here it is with the rear jack shaft cover fitted and the crank case breater and thermostat housing refitted.

Thanx for looking

PS if you need an engine it is now on ebay

Did you install it without the gasket? I see that replacement pumps come with gaskets so I made one.

Cliff

 

[janolsson]

Did you install it without the gasket? I see that replacement pumps come with gaskets so I made one.

Cliff

Hey cliff, been a while.
Yes i didn't use a gasket, just made sure the 2 mating surfaces were dry and clean.
I did the same on the original engine that i have been running for about 6000 miles since the rebuild and no problems.
Jan

 

[cjmedina]

Thanks Jan,

I'm preparing to my engine back together with the help from my friends here in the forums.

I wasn't sure there was a gasket or not since it was awhile since I disassembled the engine.

I wonder why no gasket???? yet I see they sell the pump with one???

Cliff