Engine Turns Over But Won't Start 4.0 SOHC

[krispy97xlt]

So last Friday my wife drove the Sport Trac to work. Parked it, and when she returned to the parking lot it wouldn't start.

Assuming she left the lights on I showed up to her work with a jump box and hop into the truck and attempt to start the engine. To my surprise the engine turns over fine, it just doesn't "start".

At that point, I checked a few things. I could hear the fuel pump humming when I key "on". I also checked the inertia valve to ensure it wasn't tripped.

I had the sport trac towed back to my home, and I am just getting around to looking into the problem.

Does anyone have some quick checks to perform to help figure out why it isn't starting?

Info:

2001 Job 2 Sport Trac 4.0 SOHC

Thanks in advance!

 

[krispy97xlt]

Update:

Last night I did some troubleshooting. Thinking it may be my fuel pump I banged on the fuel tank a few times with a deadblow hammer to see if I could shake loose the pump (suggestion from a co worker)

When that was unsucessful, I installed a spark tester inline between the plug and the plug wire. While turning over the tester didn't indicate any spark.

I connected my OBD II scan tool and found no codes. I was able to see RPM change while the engine was turning over with the starter, and I was able to read engine coolant temperature from the onboard sensor.

I depressed the schrader valve on the passenger side fuel rail and was unable to get any fuel to come out (this was with key off).

I finally tried spraying starting fluid into the engine at the throttle body and didn't get any response from that either.

So I am thinking I have a spark issue, any suggestions on how to proceed?

 

[2000StreetRod]

Fuse 19?

The crankshaft position sensor "tells" the PCM when the engine is rotating. If your scanner read the cranking engine speed (around 300 rpm) then that means the crankshaft position sensor is functional. Make sure the spark plug wires are tightly seated on the coilpack connectors. The ignition coilpack gets power from Fuse 19 (25 amps) in the central junction box next to the driver side A pillar.

If the fuse is good then disconnect the connector to the coilpack and measure the voltage from the pin in the connector to the red/light green wire and ground with the ignition switch on. It should be battery voltage. There is no ground wire for the coilpack so if battery voltage is present remove the coilpack mounting bolts and clean the underside of the bolt heads and the mating surface on the coilpack, the bottom of coilpack and then reinstall.

Sometimes the radio noise suppression capacitor fails in a shorted mode so if the fuse is blown disconnect the electrical connection to the radio noise suppression capacitor, replace Fuse 19 and then check for battery voltage to the coilpack.

If there is battery voltage to the coilpack, the grounding/mounting bolts are clean and there is still no spark to any of the plugs (there are three coils in the coilpack and only one may fail) then check the PCM main connector. It should be snug (do not overtighten).

The Explorer uses a waste spark ignition system. The spark plugs are paired and each section of the coilpack fires a pair of cylinders (one on the exhaust stroke while the other is on the compression stroke). The pairs are 1&5, 2&6, 3&4. The PCM "grounds" one side of each coilpack primary winding allowing an electromagnetic field to build in the coil section.

A pair of plugs are fired when the PCM interrupts the current flow causing the electromagnetic field to collapse inducing a high voltage pulse in the coilpack secondary winding. If a pair of plugs are not getting spark then either that section of the coilpack has failed or the PCM to coilpack electrical connection has failed.

 

[krispy97xlt]

I visually checked the 25A fuse #19 it didn't appear to be blown.

I use an app called dash command with my iphone to monitior OBD data, in the "tach" menu I didn't see a number, only that the needle in the gauge moved from "0". I will check my crank position connector to ensure it is connected well.

To clarify, I need to check the red wire with green trace to ground for voltage, and I should see battery voltage? This is on the vehicle side harness, not the coil side of the harness correct?

 

[2000StreetRod]

correct

Probe the engine wiring harness connector (not the coilpack connector) with the ignition on.

 

[krispy97xlt]

Ok, more checks completed

12v on green/red wire to ground

Coil grounds look good

Disconnected/reconnected the following :

Crank shaft speed /position sensor

Coil power source

PCM connector

-rechecked fuel at the Schrader valve with key on, fuel is indeed present and under pressure.

What are the next things to check?

 

[2000StreetRod]

confirm no spark

I suggest that you confirm there is no spark to more than one plug.
Also, make sure THEFT is not rapidly flashing when the key is on.

 

[krispy97xlt]

I suggest that you confirm there is no spark to more than one plug.
Also, make sure THEFT is not rapidly flashing when the key is on.

Theft light is not flashing. It is solid "on" when I am trying to start. Also, when I key "on" check engine and check gauge lights come on and don't turn off. Is this correct?

I still need to check for spark on other plug wires. I have been using an inline spark tester that is similar to a test light, is this OK?

How about the cam position sensor?

And finally my biggest fear, timing has "jumped" . I just had the chains and tensioners replaced 6k miles ago, is this even a possibility?

I like to diagnose things before throwing parts at them, however I am thinking it might be wise to buy a 40$ ignition coil and see if that fixes the problem.

What are my next leads?

 

[2000StreetRod]

Theft

Theft light is not flashing. It is solid "on" when I am trying to start. Also, when I key "on" check engine and check gauge lights come on and don't turn off. Is this correct? . . .

According to my 2000 Owner's Guide THEFT should blink every two seconds when ignition is off. When the ignition is switched to on or start THEFT should light for three seconds and then go out. If THEFT stays on for an extended period or flashes rapidly you have a PATS problem.

Have you tried the other ignition key?
Do you have remote start capability? If so, it is often the cause of no ignition when cranking the starter.

 

[krispy97xlt]

According to my 2000 Owner's Guide THEFT should blink every two seconds when ignition is off. When the ignition is switched to on or start THEFT should light for three seconds and then go out. If THEFT stays on for an extended period or flashes rapidly you have a PATS problem.

Have you tried the other ignition key?
Do you have remote start capability? If so, it is often the cause of no ignition when cranking the starter.

I only have one ignition key for the truck. I will verify PATS light operation later today and report back.

 

[krispy97xlt]

Take a look at this PDF, page 18. Apparently my PATS system is type "E" and grounds the starter relay after a successful boot.

Since my starter is turning over I am assuming that the PATS system is not at fault.

What do you think?

 

[2000StreetRod]

build date?

According to your link a 2001 has either a Type B (before 24 Jul 00) or Type E (24 Jul 00 or later) depending on the build date. What is your build date? For both Type B and Type E THEFT should flash at 2 second interval with ignition off and 3 second interval with ignition on. On my 2000 Sport when I use a non-PATS key the starter will crank but the injectors are disabled. I can't remember if the THEFT flashes rapidly or stays on when cranking with the non-PATS key.

 

[krispy97xlt]

According to your link a 2001 has either a Type B (before 24 Jul 00) or Type E (24 Jul 00 or later) depending on the build date. What is your build date? For both Type B and Type E THEFT should flash at 2 second interval with ignition off and 3 second interval with ignition on. On my 2000 Sport when I use a non-PATS key the starter will crank but the injectors are disabled. I can't remember if the THEFT flashes rapidly or stays on when cranking with the non-PATS key.

Mine is a late build "job 2" type E.

 

[krispy97xlt]

I figured it out today at lunch.

I was looking the coil over and found the multi pin connector that plugs into the back of the coil was missing a clasp. Likely broken by the shop that did my timing belt change.

I pushed it back in and all is working.

Thanks to all for the help.

 

[2000StreetRod]

congratulations!

I suggest that you purchase a second key before you lose the only one you have. When I shop for an Explorer, if the seller doesn't have two PATS keys I reduce my offer by $150.