extended brake lines... | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

extended brake lines...

There is a "block" between the steel braided line and the two hard lines. Where did that block come from. That is the missing piece that the 91/92 explorer needs that the 93/94 doesn't need.

~Mark
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





That was on the truck when we got it.
 






Yes, it looks like the right ones for a 91-92 and for a 93-94 you just don't use that brass piece..

That brass piece I have circled is about 1/4" to 1/2" or so deeper than the fitting I have on our X now. Here is the pic of the fitting on our X (taken from post above)..
attachment.php

You can see that I have it pulled out some (so you can see all 3 fittings) but with the brass piece it would stick out through the mount a little longer than what I have now (or factory)

I can't tell for sure, but the procomp lines in the link above "look" like they might actually be lines from Earles which is what we use (Earls is a division of Holley). I know the fittings are from Earles as that is where I got mine from.

~Mark

Gonna pull up an old thread here....I got F-250 brake lines for a 2000 F-250 w/manual hubs and rear ABS. Great, right fittings, a little longer.

But I can't get the factory fitting off. When you look at the image I quoted I can get the top fitting off (the one that goes into the top of the block) but I can't get off the entire hose. There's no clearance for the wrench to get around the large "block" because of the hose that goes into it. Suggestions?

I'm ticked because this should have been a 15 minute job and the top fitting is the only one I can manage to get off. I have a Haynes manual and it said you have to loosen the fittings to get the clip off that sits behind the coil bracket but it doesn't tell you how. I appreciate help from anyone who's done this before.

Also, I left my inner fender on because I don't want to fight the brittle plastic clips. If I have to I can pull it off but I don't think clearance is my problem. It's breaking that fitting lose.
 






Are you having problems getting the hard line off the back of the fitting?

he hard line has a connection on the end that you turn to pull it out of the block. I just use a channel lock to hold the block and a tubing wrench on the hard line to break the hard line free.

As for the clip, it is shaped like a "U" and is on the back of the block (back side of the mount if your sitting where the tire goes). You just push/hit etc it so it released off the block.

I don't have the clip on mine in the pic you quoted which is why my block is pulled through some.

~Mark
 






Are you having problems getting the hard line off the back of the fitting?

he hard line has a connection on the end that you turn to pull it out of the block. I just use a channel lock to hold the block and a tubing wrench on the hard line to break the hard line free.

As for the clip, it is shaped like a "U" and is on the back of the block (back side of the mount if your sitting where the tire goes). You just push/hit etc it so it released off the block.

I don't have the clip on mine in the pic you quoted which is why my block is pulled through some.

~Mark

That is most likely my problem. I was trying to use a regular wrench on the block and a regular wrench back on the hard line behind the block. I will see if I can pick up a tubing wrench (I'm assuming this is a flange wrench?) for the little guy on the back and see if I can get this sucker broke loose.
 






Tubing wrench is also called a flare nut wrench. Its grabs it on more sides than a normal open ended wrench.

The business end of them has this shape to them.

flarenut.jpg


~Mark
 






Thanks Mark. My dad has a set of those, I know for a fact. I'm finding more and more that it's about 75% just having the right tool for the job, 20% instruction and 5% skill. About everything I've done so far could be accomplished by anyone who can turn a wrench. It just amounts to knowing what wrench to turn and where. Thanks for the help.
 












I have the 91/92 fitting. . So wath is the best way when it comes to extended lines?

I've had no issues with my conversion which re-uses the factory fitting. Even though people say don't use NPT on brakes it is actually used. Check out line locks and other type devices and they have an NPT fitting in there so it must not be "that bad". Even the Earles "kit" had NPT fittings as that brass piece they used to replace the factory funky fitting has them.

Anyway, what I do is cut the hard line off the fitting (the one that goes to the caliper) and drill it and then tap it for 1/8" NPT. From there it goes to a fitting/brake line. I can use the same length line on both sides (I only have to carry 1 spare).

I don't have the p/n's handy for the actual brake line. I'll dig around and see if I have them here... If not, I can get them right off the spare brake line I have in the back of the X.

~Mark
 






I'm looking at the Superlif 4" kit.. and know i need to get longer brakelines when i lift it more.. so i need to come up with somthing :D
 






Featured Content

Back
Top