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Extended Radius Arms (point me in right direction)

Now that this thread has moved in this direction... what are the best options if the FA600 pitman arm isn't long enough and the super runner sucks? What can you do to get everything lying flat?
 



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you got me thinking Brandon, I've never take a close look at this superrunner but could you explain. I never liked the idea of shortening linkage on tie-rods.

I'm pretty sure the ultimate steering starts when your tie rods move at the same ratio as your beams right?

first, i'll say sorry for slightly derailing this thread by sticking my nose in it...

but yeah, with the superunner steering linkage the arc the tierods move in is a lot shorter than it should be. The tierods (like you said) should travel in the same arc as the beams swing. say at ride height, you have zro toe w/ the superunner steering: as you droop, the beam is swinging a larger arc than the tierod, so the tierod will pull in at a faster rate than the beam, causing lots of toe-in. It will do this both at bump and droop.
 






I stand corrected! Thanks Brandon. I had a guy in the shop that swore it fixed his bump-steer problem and I have been contemplating buying it for a while now. Saves me a $400 woops! Also, the counter guy at 4 Wheel Parts said that the Super Lift dropped pitman arm is the same exact thing as a stock Bronco arm. He didn't specify what year. Don't know if that is exactly correct, but it might be worth investigating.
 






first, i'll say sorry for slightly derailing this thread by sticking my nose in it...

but yeah, with the superunner steering linkage the arc the tierods move in is a lot shorter than it should be. The tierods (like you said) should travel in the same arc as the beams swing. say at ride height, you have zro toe w/ the superunner steering: as you droop, the beam is swinging a larger arc than the tierod, so the tierod will pull in at a faster rate than the beam, causing lots of toe-in. It will do this both at bump and droop.

The problem isn't so much that the tierods are shorter (sure it doesn't help, but it's not the root of the problem with these kits), it's the fact some engineering monkey at Superlift put the centerlink up 2 inches too high to line up properly even with a 4" lift (and the bumpsteer issue this causes is only exacerbated with taller lifts). This causes the arcs for the tierod and axle beam to cross diagonally over each other at ride height.

If the centerlink is modified to bring it down 2", the kit actually works quite well (much better than with the stock Y-linkage, although still falling slightly short of a full-length swingset system). Unfortunately this isn't the case as it comes out of the box though. :(


And no, a stock Bronco pitman arm is not the same as the Superlift arm. A stock Bronco arm actually has 2" LESS drop than a stock Explorer arm.
 






So, whats the best steering option for lifted TTB? Or is the solution an SAS and proper crossover?
 






So, whats the best steering option for lifted TTB? Or is the solution an SAS and proper crossover?

The best steering is a custom swing set system. Here is one ok pic, if you do some searching you can probably find some that show a bit more.

attachment.jpg
 






So, whats the best steering option for lifted TTB? Or is the solution an SAS and proper crossover?

Depends on how much you have to spend, and what you're using the truck for.

Cheapest end of things is the larger Skyjacker #FA600 pitman arm, which matches perfectly with a 4" lift, but is generally acceptable up to 6" lift.

The Superlift steering kit requires modification for use with anything above a 4" lift.
A custom system based off the "K-link" design Superlift uses with it's straight-link tierods, would be by far the most rugged option (this would be best for trail/crawling use).

Crossover (swingset) steering is best if you plan on doing a lot of high-speed running.

A SAS is best if you're wanting to lift it to the moon, as the TTB steering gets impractical to deal with above 6" of lift.
 






i finally ordered my fa600 today,i have the worst angles on my truck.it gets so bad of bump steer that it sounds like the tires are coming off the road when it start to wobble back and forth.ill post a pic of it after the fa 600 is installed,it has the fa400 or stuiplift arm on it now!!o if anyone needs the fa400 ill sell it cheap.
pic with the fa 400
2dsfjx2.jpg
 






I have a 5.5 inch superlift and seem to be having the same steering and wobble problem. If all I have to do is change the pitman arm life will be good. So I'll be watching to see if it works,.
 






well i put it on today and it helped out about 50%,it brought it down about 2 more inches but i think it needs atleast 3" or 4".i posted pic in my "DOUBLE VISION"Registry and a little info on how i did it,didnt want to double post pic and clog up this thread.its on page 5 post 95,o and if anybody wants the fa 400 shoot me a message ill let it go cheap
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2341812#post2341812
 












i know this is old, but might be doing a axle swap soon so thinking i might do this at same time... whats everyones inputs still


edit: I can find TuffCountry, FabTech, Duff all online...
 
























you can stack washers in front of the bushing to bring it back into alignment.
 












i read through a few of them, my only problem now is, it can throw off the alignment (caster)? that sucks arse

If you build your own arms, you can correct any existing camber problems by aligning the DOM tube within the arm stub that's bolted to the TTB half, before welding. I have camber problems already, so doing this gives me a chance to correct that.
 



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