Extending Radius Arms for Tire Clearance

[Weatherman]

I sorting out big tire clearance issues at the moment on my '91, and came up with an issue I can't find any coverage on...

Like most explorers I've seen, my wheels sit too far to the rear of the wheel well. There is more clearance at the bumper side of the tire than at the door side. If I extend my radius arms about an inch, and push the whole front axle assembly forward (centering the wheel inside the fender), tire clearance issues pretty much go away. Whats the harm in doing this? Is there a reason all explorers I see have clearance problems at the back side, not the front? I'm lifted and using aftermarket radius arms, but the issue would be rubbing on the rear side even if I were still stock.

Ben

 

[j602]

The harm is that the bracketry doesn't allow forward movement. The purpose of radius arms is to prevent fore/aft movement of the axle. You'll bend the axle pivot brackets if you push beams forward, as well as throw off the alignment of practically every suspension component - springs, shocks, castor, etc.

Basically, this can't be done without moving the entire suspension forward.

 

[Nick_Good]

I agree with Josh. The axle pivot brackets would not alow the axle to move forward.
Nick Good

 

[JoelH]

If you add a few spacers (Washers) infront of the bushings you should be able to push the axle forward some. You will have to watch that the passengerside brackets pivot bolt doesn't interfere with the axle shaft.

I'm guessing 1/2" is max you can do so before it becomes a problem.

 

[Weatherman]

Well, I pushed the wheels forward about an inch. My axle clears the opposite axle pivot bolt (axle pivot within bushing range), my shocks are within the bushing range, and coil doesn't look out of whack. I need to redo the whole alignment anyhow, so that doesn't worry me.

I'm using a james duff lift with the new radius arms (heim jointed tubular radius arms). There has to be something wrong with this though, otherwise someone else would have done it before.

Using nothing but that lift, I fit 33x12.50 Kumho Venture MTs on 15x8 Eagle Alloys 055 series wheels (3.25" BS). Under full compression and full steering lock, I only rub a tiny bit on the black plastic inner fenders (I'm currently in the process of tying the plastic back to avoid this).

Ben

 

[j602]

Which lift? 2.5 or 5.5?

I still think you're playing with fire by pushing the axle assembly forward. I would think during full articulation and cycling, that this could not be good for the suspension components.

 

[Creager]

How do you expect to push the IFS assembly forward?

By adding longer arms?

...placebo effect.

 

[Weatherman]

It's just like stacking washers on the radius arms, only I stacked about 1" worth of washers on it. I jacked the front wheels up one at a time to make things bind; I quit before the truck fell over but never saw any conflicts. My original intention was to put the 2.5" lift on and then start cutting fenders (or buy fiberglass) until I fit 33x12.50s. I also have 4" lift parts if I really want to go that route, but if 2.5" works as is, then why not stick with it. I know others on the board with the same 2.5" lift are rubbing (some with 32's), so I'm wondering if I did something stupid or just got lucky.