Factory limited slip Trac loc Kits???? | Ford Explorer Forums

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Factory limited slip Trac loc Kits????

lonestar

Explorer Addict
Joined
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City, State
lou,ky
Year, Model & Trim Level
91 XLT, 02 XLS
I have a factory limited slip trak lock with 150K that is no longer "limited" slip. I was originally thinking about a Powertrax since it can be used with the original carrier, but since virtually all of my driving is on the street with occasional minor 4x4, I have started to look into rebuilding the Trac loc. The rebuild kit is much cheaper, but I don't want to rebuild something that will wear out in 20-25k miles and get stuck in some minor mud whole, not to mention wet grass on a hill. Its nice to have a working limited slip when you need it. The only thing stopping me from the powertrax is the expense, and the worry of bad weather driving, I tend to have a lead foot when pulling out from a side street.

Now with all that said, what is the difference between these two rebuild kits

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It looks like one comes with 6 clutches and more steel rings and the other has 8 clutches.

Thanks
 



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i have the exact same problem. my solution... next week im ordering a spool from randy's ring and pinion. i know that i will get flamed because somebody knows a guy who broke this and that, but from ALL of the people that i have talked that have they're rear spooled they love it and have not broken any aditional driveline parts. parralel parking mightbe a turd, but oh well.

Part number #  
YP MINSF8.8-31 mini spool  89.00$
FORF880500  8.8 STD CASE (USED)                47.00$
TK LM603049 TIMKEN BEARING                       12.00$
TK LM603012  TIMKEN RACES                          6.00 $
FORF900401  8.8 X-PIN SHAFT                          7.44 $
GM 14056196  X-PIN BOLT                                 1.50 $

this is everything that you will need. you might be able to pick up a used open carrier from someone here on the board for cheap. you will need one anyway if you decide to go with the locker.
good luck keep us posted.
 






Powertrax makes a no-slip for the limited slip carrier. From other posts, it sounds like a 2-3 hour job to remove spider gears and place in new no-slip unit and reuse the same pinion. That was the reason I considered Powertrax, I didn't want to get into replacing the carrier, bearings and worry about alignment.

http://www.powertrax.com/ click on no-slip


I also read that auburn makes a limited slip with a Ford Motorsports part number. The only thing is, it is sold out of a Ford parts store in Texas.

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I would like to rebuild the trac-loc limited slip because of the price and and the fact I primarly drive on the street. But which kit is better. I heard you can place and extra clutch disk on each side to make the liimted slip tighter. I was wondering if there is a difference in the kit you can buy. Or do you just use one of the old clutch disks on each side along with the new clutches.
 






Or do you just use one of the old clutch disks on each side along with the new clutches
that is my understanding of the rebuild.

FMExplorer (aka jon mcleod) had the Auburn Limited Slip and loved it, but he has now gone with the Detroit Locker Rear for max traction.

as far as the differences between those two kits im not sure.
 






Yep - I had the Auburn and it worked great - however, I knew it wouldn't hold up to my driving style with 35's, so I went to a Detroit C-Clip locker. One problem with the Detroit - the main lokcing gear sheared a tooth and the clutch mechanism doesn't work. Tihs is after 3 months of mild use (mainly road driving). The locker is stuck locked and is acting like a spool. Sharp turns suck to be completely blunt. I will be sending the Detroit back to Randy's Ring and Pinion where I bought it for help with warranty issues shortly. I have an open carrier I was going to use as a spare, but Gabe will be taking that (I assume) and letting me have his beat LS carrier. (Is that still on Gabe?) If so - we should be putting the spool in on the 21st and testing it all weekend when Gabe can give us all a report on how it works.

Jon
 






Speaking of Auburns, here is the Ford Motorsport Auburn
http://www.fordracing.com/parts/sea...=0&szkeyword=auburn&partnumber=&order=&page=1


Does anyone know where I can find a Trac-loc clutch pack rebuild kit. I believe the Ford kit come with 6 clutches. I don't know where the kit on ebay with 8 clutches came from. I also found a kit that included various sized shims. Could I just use all the shims to make it tighter. I am not to crazy about mixing old and new clutches. Any advice on this subject.

Thank ya'll
 












Thanks Gary, I wonder why thay don't list it on their site. I guess I'll try an email request.

Are you happy with your LS rebuild, or should I go with something more like the Powertrax. Did you place any extra clutches or spacers?

I have seen different packing methods.

Factory:
shim, friction, steel, steel, friction, steel, steel, friction, side gear

Rebuilds: shim, friction, steel, friction, steel, friction, steel, friction, side gear
and
clutch/spacer/clutch/spacer/clutch/spacer/clutch/spacer/clutch, do not use any shims

I kinda like the last one, keeps same number of spacers to transmit torque as factory and almost doubles the number of clutches. I guess you could use shims also to make it tighter, if you can get the S spring in.

Should I by two rebuild kits, or use old clutches for the extra?
 






Lonestar,
I am very happy with the rebuild. I rebuilt to the factory specs and used the thicker spacers, they helped tighten up the amount of slip, made a world of difference from my 90K worn out clutches. You can do the rebuild in two hours.
The factory LS is good but the powertrax or Auburn are even better but they cost alot more.

I have since changed my gears and added an Auburn unit, I bought the whole set up from one of the members here on the board.
 






The best person that I know of for all your axle questions would be Allen Degroot. Send him an Email with your questions at ADEGROOT@PTD.NET
 






I have the powertrax no-slip and love it. the install was easy and driving it on the street is not bad at all. Definetely better straightaway traction. Around corners is not too bad, you just have to learn how to drive with it. I accelerate coming off of side streets too and don't have any problems. Interested to see how it handles in the winter, but for now rain realy isn't too bad the occasional chirping of the inside tire on a turn when the roads are wet, but that is it. Once you learn to drive it it is great.:D
 






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