fault code reader

[noruckus]

1st off looking for a fault code reader page.
2nd list of fault codes coming up and can some one help reading and give leads as to possible fixes.
P0155
P0304
p0305
P1151
p1152
If i could get a good fault code page might be able to help myself, but as is, need input on the codes listed to help my truck.
If helps I've replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, IAC, cleaned MAF.
Truck starts like ****, need to give it gas to get it running, not right , idles like crap till it warms up, even then it surges while driving or is it the other way around, meaning tranny is not pulling, and acting up at idle, and whiloe driving, not much power also while driving, any help much appreciated.

 

[96_sport_ct]

so are you saying you need help on figuring out what the codes mean technically? i can tell you the definition of each,

P0155- O2 Sensor heater circuit malfunction (bank 2 sensor 1)
P0304- cylinder 4 misfire (had the same problem on my truck, seems that oil or something leaked onto the plug. on the drivers side closest to the bumper on v6 model.
p0305- cylinder 5 misfire (would recommend checking coil and/or wires and plugs)
P1151- Lack of HO2S-21 Switch, Sensor Indicates Lean (http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/ford/p1151.php)
p1152- Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Rich - Bank No. 2

the last two seem odd to have at the same time so what i would do is clear all codes and drive for a while and see what comes back. now, next time if you need help with codes you can usually just type in PXXXX into google and it will show you what it means or you can go to obd-codes.com when was the last time you checked plugs and wires? it could easily be that the plugs are fouled out. now, those last two codes if you dont know what lean or rich means (i dont know how much knowledge you have on the matter) lean is not enough fuel being sprayed into the cylinder. rich means too much fuel. you might want to check the injectors. it could be possible that when you changed the fuel filter, some small particulate could have been knocked loose and clogged an injector. it could also be faulty injectors. i hope this helps and best of luck on the rEpairs

 

[noruckus]

so are you saying you need help on figuring out what the codes mean technically? i can tell you the definition of each,

P0155- O2 Sensor heater circuit malfunction (bank 2 sensor 1)
P0304- cylinder 4 misfire (had the same problem on my truck, seems that oil or something leaked onto the plug. on the drivers side closest to the bumper on v6 model.
p0305- cylinder 5 misfire (would recommend checking coil and/or wires and plugs)
P1151- Lack of HO2S-21 Switch, Sensor Indicates Lean (http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/ford/p1151.php)
p1152- Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Rich - Bank No. 2

the last two seem odd to have at the same time so what i would do is clear all codes and drive for a while and see what comes back. now, next time if you need help with codes you can usually just type in PXXXX into google and it will show you what it means or you can go to obd-codes.com when was the last time you checked plugs and wires? it could easily be that the plugs are fouled out. now, those last two codes if you dont know what lean or rich means (i dont know how much knowledge you have on the matter) lean is not enough fuel being sprayed into the cylinder. rich means too much fuel. you might want to check the injectors. it could be possible that when you changed the fuel filter, some small particulate could have been knocked loose and clogged an injector. it could also be faulty injectors. i hope this helps and best of luck on the rEpairs

96_sport_ct thanks for the input.
1st. your right about to google the codes, me just not thinking or being lazy.
2nd. this has been an on going problem that's been getting worse, codes have been cleared after small fixes, and have returned, plugs changed about 5k ago but not wires as they looked good, will address that even though quality of them look good, price of new wires, not an issue, should of done it already.
3rd. injectors, sounds like a good possible problem, or coils for that matter.
Question, as to injectors or coils, trying to keep costs down, "not working right now" what would you suggest to replace first. This truck is getting hard to start, meaning when I start it I need to give it major gas, no fuel and it will die right away, time and time again, while driving it, it will surge a lot and has lost a lot of power, also is eating major amounts of fuel. Which one of the 2 would replace 1st. Note, this is v6 OHV engine do coils and injectors apply? little stupid on things sometimes, can I fix and repair the wife's E46 BMW or my change out a cam on my 65 stang yes, just treading into new area with the EXP and not confident with certain things. All input is greatly appreciated and listened to.
Thanks, Mike.

 

[96_sport_ct]

this is what i would try first to keep costs down- if you know anyone who is a mechanic ask to borrow a spark tester. or you could simply go out and buy one, they aren't too expensive. seeing as i am not there looking at the truck i am limited as to the amount of insight i can give but that's what i would start with. usually if its a bad coil it wont only be one cylinder missing. im not sure how the coils run but there are 3 coils. one coil per 2 cylinders. i can try and do some research and get back to you on how its run but the spark tester is going to be your cheapest way to start. it will tell you if you are getting a good spark or not. hopefully it is simply a bad coil as that will save you time and money. if its the injectors its a little more complicated and i have never had to use tools to test them i will just replace the whole set but that is a lot more complicated then the coil so just test the coil pack first.

a word of advice to you and anyone with coil problems. i went to autozone to get plugs for my truck as i had oil leaking from my valve cover onto it. it was on the same cylinder that was missing when i bought the truck. the guy there said it might be a bad coil and recommended that i CROSS PLUG WIRES to different cylinders to test. NEVER DO THIS AS IT WILL LEAD TO SERIOUS DAMAGE. i pretty well embarrassed him in front of all the customers because i brought it up that that will destroy your engine because the coil is controlling the firing of the plugs and switching lines will disrupt the firing order knocking the engine out of balance and basically ripping it apart from the inside. just a word of advice to never listen to the workers there unless you need a part number off their computer.

again best of luck to you

PS- its understandable that you can do cam swaps but are having problems with electrical systems, its a lot more complicated and honestly you can only learn from experience. you will, at some point, figure it out and from there everything will be alot easier

 

[96_sport_ct]

by the way, are you still driving this around? i wouldn't recommend that if you are at least until you fix the problems. now that i re-read over your problems with the codes it almost sounds like its a combination of both the fuel delivery system and your spark system. the system detecting lean then rich is a problem that could be from the injectors but it could also be from a faulty O2 sensor. the sensor could also effect the performance of the motor. i had mine loosen about 1/8 of a turn and my motor ran like crap till i tightened it back down. check all your sensors to see if they are working and also be sure they are all tight. seeing as how there is a code saying O2 Sensor heater circuit malfunction (bank 2 sensor 1) it could partially be a sensor or it could be mostly the sensor. check the wires around that one for damage and i might recommend replacing that one and see if the symptoms improve.

 

[Grbullets]

Something to consider as well here. Sometimes plug wires do not appear to be bad by looking at them. Some will also test OK when cold and break down after they heat up or under a load. If the codes are related to a specific cylinder, go out and try to find a wire to replace the bad one if money is tight and you'd rather not replace them all. Spark problems can lead to all kinds of fault codes so I agree that having the spark checked on all cylinders, but I'd also have that #5 wire replaced. It also sounds like this could be a timing belt problem. It may have jumped a tooth or there may be one or two that broke off the belt. You should have the timing checked as well. If the timings off, that would cause all those trouble codes as well.

 

[noruckus]

Update, decided that changing out the ignition coil pack was the best starting point, big improvement, power has comeback, cold starting is normal, used to have to give it gas upon cold start, now just turn the key and vroom, acting up at stop lights, better, have cleared the codes and will drive for a bit and see which ones come back, suspect some will, and plan on running some kind of fuel injector cleaner through, maybe several times.