Freeze plug installation

[csturner92]

I'm sorry I keep asking so many different things. This Explorer was neglected for so long, I keep finding more and more issues with it.

Once again, it's a 1994 Ford Explorer EB 4d/4wd


The freeze plug on the driver side of the engine, closest to the radiator (right behind the power steering pump) popped out. There was just an expandable rubber one laying there, and upon some research, I learned those were only temporary measures. Good thing I didn't take the explorer out for a test run... would have ended badly!

This particular plug is in a hard to reach location. I removed the wheel well, but a section of the frame is in the way. The plug is angled slightly down, so I can't get anything on it to tap it in.

I got a steel plug (should have gone brass, I know) and I coated the back (to help with rust prevention) and sides of it and just stuck it in place.

20 hours later, I went out and filled up all the coolant and it did not leak.
I started the truck and let it idle for 5 minutes or so, and it did not leak.

I'm going to give it another day to set before I drive it up and down the street...

My question is, do you think it will stay in place? I don't want to be making a trip to Wally World and the plug pop out, but at the same time the only way I can seem to get to it is by pulling the engine.

Thoughts?

EDIT: I'm thinking about sealing the plug altogether with JB Weld or some such, if the plug manages to stay in.

 

[Anime]

Freeze plugs are a press fit, they stay in place merely from the force of the rim pushing out against the block.

As long as they were pounded in, they will stay, but if you just "stuck" them in, and they are either not all the way in, or didn't go in with much force, they may have been the wrong size and will not stay in place long term.

Do NOT use JB Weld or otherwise weld or adhere them to the block - this defeats the purpose of the freeze plugs and can cause a lot of other problems.

Coating the back (as in, the side that goes into the block and contacts the coolant) isn't a good idea either, as that also defeats the purpose - the plugs are a disposable/sacrificial part, "protecting" them leads to other, permanent parts being sacrificed.

Best bet, be sure you have the right size plug, steel or brass, position it in front of the plug hole, and use a piece of metal plate against the plug and a wedge between the plate and the frame, and tap the wedge to press the plate against the plug, which will press the plug into the block. Do this until the plug is flush against the block and you're done.

 

[csturner92]

I was able to just set them there, and they looked like they were flush with the block.

It popped out anyway, as you said it would, so I'll just try doing it the right way. I was able to get my socket extensions in there, but with the plug being at an angle, when I hit it, the plug just popped out.

Probably just going to push it around the corner to Firestone and let them do it the right way.... if I can't get it in first!

 

[Benjam]

I fought with a freeze plug on my 92 a couple years back.I tried the regular freeze plug that came out of it originally, and it kept going in crooked or popping off right away. What I did was find a plug that was the same diameter but about two or three times as deep.. So when I went to pound it in, it kind of straightens itself out. Get a good hit on it, then, because of the extra depth, you can straighten it up to the block without it popping out. Depending on how much deeper this plug is vs the old one, you may not want to pound it flush with the block. Use your best judgement here.

Good luck! Oh and it is a regular practice to coat the backsides and edges of these plugs with black silicone. This way the coolant doesn't eat through them, rusting them from the inside out.

Benjam