Front axle questions - 87 Ranger 4x4

[87FordLoneRanger]

Hello, I have a few questions I need answers to, and I'm sure sure ya'll are who to talk to. I have a 87 Ford Ranger STX 4wd. Since I've owned the truck, locking in the front differential (push button auto 4x4) it's made a popping noise. Normally only the when the front left is really pulling. Besides that it was quiet as could be. Was. Got stuck in 2wd the other day and went to lock it in and the popping came back but was followed by a kind of grinding noise, almost like the hub isn't locking. It's coming from only the driver side. Now for the questions... I automatically assumes it was a U-joint that had been going bad, then a buddy noticed the other side not turning either. He told me it was probably the gears in there, something a miss. But another, more credible friend told me it doesn't necessarily mean the gears are bad, due to the limited slip. He said that the limited slip would keep the other side stationary when the opposite is turning. True or false? Just trying to get an idea of what I'm dealing with, as this is my first 4x4. Don't wanna start pulling the diff apart if the limited slip is to blame, meaning it would most likely be the less expensive U-joint. I know it's hard to understand exactly without being there but I thought someone here could explain to me what I'm dealing with. Thanks..

 

[RangerX]

You don't mention if you have auto or manual hubs, but my first guess would be bad auto hubs. Do you know which you have? Letting us know that will help us help you.
Also, you don't have a limited slip in the front axle, unless you or a previous owner added one. It did not come from Ford with one.

 

[87FordLoneRanger]

re. front axle questions

yes. i do have automatic hubs. thats what the grinding noise sounded like to me but there is a popping too. thats why i was curious. would the hubs going bad make a substantial popping noise as well? thanks for replying man, i appreciate it.

 

[RangerX]

Oh yeah they can make noise! Mine would bind and release so violently, I swore it was an axleshaft snapping.
Check into getting some manual hubs.

 

[4x4junkie]

Yeah, sounds like manual hubs should fix the issue.

And FWIW, a limited slip front was an option on the D28 axle on some '80s models, though it was rarely ordered. IIRC, such vehicles will have a three-digit axle code ending with the number 2 (F62, for example).

 

[87FordLoneRanger]

ok im looking into getting the manual locking hubs, but my question is what else has to be swapped if anything? do i just swap them out and thats it? nothing else needs to be changed to go from auto to manual?

 

[4x4junkie]

The wheel bearing nuts have to be changed, but that's it.

What I would do (if this is going to be a wheeling rig) is go down to a junkyard and get a set of used hubs and the nut setup off any '83-'89 Ranger or Bronco II, as that axle you have in yours (Dana28) isn't really worth putting much $$$ into. Once you start wheeling the thing you'll likely find it breaks the little u-joints rather easily, especially if you put larger tires on it.
Eventually you'll want to swap it out for a Dana35 axle from a later truck having the 4.0L V6 engine, it's massively bigger in just about every way. The D35 as an assembly bolts right into place aside from having to shorten the front driveshaft an inch or so due to the longer pinion snout on it.

 

[87FordLoneRanger]

also when i go to the junk yard, will the wheel bearing nuts from what i take them off work? or would i in turn have to find an auto that has previously been converted?

 

[87FordLoneRanger]

thanks man the manual hubs fixed it. looking into that bigger front from the 4.0. thanks for the help buddy.

 

[4x4junkie]

Good deal
Yeah the manual hub nuts are the same stuff whether stock or converted, as you probably noticed.

Some good info here about the D35 and swapping one in.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/4wd_Front_Axles.html
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/D28_D35_swap.html

 

[87FordLoneRanger]

awesome thanks. what do you think about swapping the ind. sus. with a straight axle?

 

[RangerX]

Yeah, 4x4junkie, what do you think about that?!?

 

[87FordLoneRanger]

also, im looking into getting some 36"-38" tires and wondering if my stock gears will have problems turning them? what could i pull another rear end off the would bolt up and be able to turn them no problem?

 

[4x4junkie]

Yeah, 4x4junkie, what do you think about that?!?

I think people do it way too often where 70% of the time one isn't needed. Too often people mistake it to be stronger simply because it's solid, which just isn't true.
Solid axle suspensions are easier to comprehend the workings of however (especially one with leaf springs). Many get confused over camber and steering placement on a TTB suspension, though I also suspect a very large part of it comes from general attitudes about it and people not bothering to notice how the two setups are actually much more similar than different (the stupid-stiff coil springs provided in your average TTB lift kit for example... Claims that TTB can't flex like a SA are often thrown about, which has little to do with the fact it's TTB, it's those POS coils, which would flex just as little if they were put onto a solid axle. I got rid of the stiff coils on mine for something better, and am now right there mid-pack with everything else, solid axle or not.

With all that said, if you're looking to go with tires as big as 38", a Dana60 front axle might be what you'd want to look for, which only came in solid versions (and obviously would make a good reason to switch).
Both the Dana35 and a Dana44 (which is commonly mistaken to be radically stronger than the D35) are good for about 35" tires max if you want to be able to goose it over stuff once in a while.
35" is a fairly big tire (especially for someone just getting into the game)... I would suggest starting out at that size or less (33s maybe) and see how well they work for you before spending the big bucks on big huge meats and the axles required to turn them reliably.




And just to be clear, the comparison up above is solely between TTB and SA suspensions, not A-arm style IFS setups, which have little in common with a TTB and much more often are better replaced with a SA setup.

 

[87FordLoneRanger]

yeah ive got 33s now looking to go bigger. thanks for the tips.

 

[87FordLoneRanger]

hey guys, another question for the experts...
Ive got a 5 in "frame lift" which is basically the same as suspension lift for the front end on my 87 ranger. wondering how i would get the back to go up 5 in as well. theres already 3 inch blocks in it from the factory and stacking them doesnt sound too good for it. Im guessing ill need a bigger leaf spring. Any ideas on what i should pull the leafs off to get a 5 in lift in the back??

 

[4x4junkie]

"Frame lift"?? :scratch:

I guess new (taller) leaf springs would work, though I have no clue what a frame lift is.

Explorer springs usually get you 1-2" lift on a Ranger, extended shackles another 1.5-2". More than that, you'll have to go aftermarket springs (Skyjacker, etc.).