Front C-V and U-Joint

[imp]

2004 4.0L 4X4. Bought with 92K, on general principles, replaced rear U-Joints, front "front" U-Joint, but left C-V at Transfer Case alone. The funky Torx bolts up front, crummy bolts at C-V, replaced with Allen bolts.

The C-V worries me. What kind of life can be expected out of one of these without ever touching it, no lubrication, nuthin'? There is absolutely no noise (though I'm deaf, so depend on wife to spread the news), runs smooth, with slight driveline vibration noticeable between 65-75 only.

Can that C-V's guts be replaced, or is it a whole driveshaft? My '96 had no C-V, I believe; is it necessary? Thanks! imp

 

[drdoom]

Imp on a 2G you can replace the joint, not certain on a 3G but it's worth investigating. Doesn't mean anything really, but I have 247,000 miles on the CV in my '97, and it's still in fine shape (I have been known to inject a bit of grease through the pinhole in the metal cup if I happen to have the driveshaft disconnected for other reasons). The half shafts are original too. So CVs can last a good while. But if the rubber boot goes, that's a different story.

 

[imp]

@drdoom
Actually nowadays, for how often I use 4X4, I could discard the front shaft if the thing goes south. Not so in my younger, wilder days!
imp

 

[drdoom]

I know what you mean Imp!

 

[Number4]

Leave them be until their boots tear or you get a popping noise when turning, caused by them. Nowadays, you just swap them out, don't know any shops that put new boots on them.

 

[imp]

Leave them be until their boots tear or you get a popping noise when turning, caused by them. Nowadays, you just swap them out, don't know any shops that put new boots on them.

@Number4
We are a bit farther in on the vehicle.......CV on rear of front driveshaft. But your advice is sound for CV boots on front axles, for sure. Especially Gen 3, will turn a U-turn easily on an average wide residential street, the boots wind-up like big coils. imp