Front Clunking noise - yes, I searched! | Ford Explorer Forums

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Front Clunking noise - yes, I searched!

keith13b

New Member
Joined
September 6, 2010
Messages
6
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City, State
Orlando, FL
Year, Model & Trim Level
1999
I have the dreaded front clunking noise going over bumps and accelerating/decelerating. It appears to be mainly from the driver side. In an attempt to fix it, I replaced these parts with new (within the last month), and the problem still persisits!:

New:

Tires
Shocks
Brakes - (tightened caliper brackets to spec)
wheel bearings (all)
sway bar bushings (frame)
end link bushings (all)
inner and outer tie rods
flushed the PS fluid
Lower ball joints
Upper ball joints with new control arm

Anything else I can try? The clunking noise is very annoying and loud! The only other thing I haven't replaced is the torsion bar.

Any help is appreciated. The vehicle is a 1999 2WD Explorer with 135K miles. All the parts I replaced are common wear parts so I know I did good by replacing them; however, the damn noise is still there and its not subtle - its LOUD! It clunks under braking/accelerating/ and turning while hitting bumps. The vehicle was all OEM when the clunking started and I replaced all of the above to try and fix it, but the problem still persistes. Pulling in and out of my driveway sounds like the suspension is going to fall apart - but damn near everthing is brand new!

Any advice?
 



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mine was a broken sway bar endlink

if you have replaced all thoes parts, you must be over looking something
 






it could be the pad in the back mount for the Torsion Bar , check them as well, make sure they are not sloppy,,
 






I was going to say torsion bar pads, or body mounts.
 






Following this thred. Thats what is wrong with mine Joe.

To get the tortion set right, Ya" need a scale under the four wheels though. It's hard to find a shop does a REAL alignment.
 






Bumper brackets or other body panels? Motor mounts?
 






Bumper brackets or other body panels? Motor mounts?

I thought about this as well, and was just going to replace both the engine and trany mounts....but upon inspection, they looked fine and held up well with a light jack lift to the engine; so I doubt that is the problem but they are the next cheap fix on the list.

I need to read up on the torsion bar to make sure I'm inspecting it right. Time for more searching, but if anyone has a link to a good write on this, by all means post it.

I will also look into the bumper brackets and body mounts. Good ideas - Thanks!
 






Steering shaft, the joint? Mine clunks on bumps.
 






I believe the problem is solved. I adjusted the torsion bars to level the ride height (which was wayyyyyyy off, BTW), and the clunking sound is gone. I did not, however, find any rubber pads in the torsion bar ends. Either they are small, non-existent, or I'm an idiot. It looked like the bar just inserts metal on metal.

Now, time for an alignment. I'm hoping I replaced/adjusted everything associated with changing the alignment.

Thanks for everyones replies. My wife was going nuts with the noise. With everything replaced she says it drives like new.



@ speedo1 - check your ride height and adjust the torsion bar. I believe it was just a 1/2" socket. Hit the threads with penetrating oil and spary the ends as well. Took my mysterious clunking noises away! My rear springs were sagging, so I lowered the front to level it out a little. I was surprised how off the left and right sides were. Good luck.
 






just remember that ride hieght is king here, even if the bolt for 1 bar is in further than the other it may only have the same pressure on it,,
the bars can sag at different rates making 1 bolt need to be in further than the other in order for them to be set the same, ,

only way to get them perfect is to use a set of wheel scales like they do in Nascar,, and than it all changes with your butt in the drivers seat,,
match the ride hieght and it should be good,,,,
 






I just equalized the frame rails to the ground to make equal ride height. I didn't even notice where the bolts were in relation to each other - didn't care, either.

I made them equal w/o driver, since the passenger and towing capacity are variables. I'm not racing here, just a daily driver. Bring it to stock spec is all I am concerned with.

Wheel scales in this situation is borderline obsefive compulsive/ **** retentive!
 






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