Front End Clunk

[mikeh]

Before you ask I have searched on this subject and haven't been able to identify the problem.

I have a clunk coming from the front. It sounds like it is on the drivers side. Whenever I hit small or large bumps in the road going under 30 mph I hear this rather pronounced clunk from the front of my truck.

So I jack up the front of the car and proceed to shake everything. Nothing loose at all on the vertical ruling out upper and lower balljoints.

Shocks are tight and bolted with no play at all in them.

Torsion bar unmovable. Very tight in there.

No perceptable play in the hub.

Caliper is properly torqued in place.

Tie rod has no play at all.

I shook both sides of the front a bunch and couldn't come up with anything.

The only play I found was that the wheel would move about a 1/4-1/2" on the horizontal. This was just due to the steering mechanizm moving when I shook the wheel. The Tie rod and the Hub were not moving independently at all.

Also when I jacked up the truck I heard a very loud "Snap" or "boing" sound. I never identified where this sound came from nor could I reproduce it.

Help Please. I've really researched this and can't figure it out. If you have an idea what it might be please also include a test that will identify the issue.

Thanks,
mikeh

 

[falls guy]

If you jacked up the truck by the frame or somewhere solid eg. cross member,the ball joints will still feel tight. You must jack up the truck with its entire wieght resting on the lower control arms in order to feel the play in the ball joints. If the suspension is hanging you won't see or feel it. I'm sorry if you know this but some people don't. It sure sounds like a ball joint to me. Good luck.
Peace

 

[Zeke]

also check the swaw bar links. When I replaced mine, the clunking sound was gone. The sway bar link bushings should be pressed tight against the sway bar and lower control arm. The bushing that press against the sway bar are usually the bushings that go bad. They need to be pressed tight against it.

 

[mrdakota]

If you jacked up the truck by the frame or somewhere solid eg. cross member,the ball joints will still feel tight. You must jack up the truck with its entire wieght resting on the lower control arms in order to feel the play in the ball joints. If the suspension is hanging you won't see or feel it. I'm sorry if you know this but some people don't. It sure sounds like a ball joint to me. Good luck.
Peace

Nice info for a newbie!
I just got a 99 Limited with the same noise coming from the frond drivers side. I checked the front end like he discribed but I had it lifted by the frame with a floor jack right behind the left front wheel.
Before I try this I need to make sure I understand you right. I lift up the wheel under the lower control arm?(sorry if this sounds dumb but this noise is driving me crazy)

 

[falls guy]

Yah lift up the truck by the lower control arm as close to the wheel as you can, so that the weight of the truck is still on the suspension. It MUST be done this way.

 

[ExploreNiagara]

Same problem

Ok guys...I think I'm having the same problem...sounds like it clunks on both sides...
If I hit a manhole cover with the right front...the noise seems to clunk there...same on the left...

I will have to check it out and let you know..

 

[97redsport]

Me too, I am going to look at the bushings close next time I am under there.

 

[ExploreNiagara]

Well....that wasn't the problem...although I found out that sway bar links are pretty cheap...24.99 at Part Source....but mine were fine....
Pretty sure its a wheel bearing ...lifted the truck and there is play ...so...that is a job that I can't tackle....yet...
So off to the local garage tomorrow.....
Still don't know how it passed a safety inspection...

Thanks for all the help guys......

Love this site...

Kev

 

[97redsport]

The sway bar end links are the bushing you are talking about. I feel the same thing if I hit sothing small on the road I don't feel anything. If I hit something large dip, bump crack, what ever. It feels like all 4 corners just thud hard. I replaced my shocks like no more a month ago. I don't remember if it was doing it after it or not. When I took it in the shop guy told me that me tire are really bad. I was pondering if they are bad enough, could it be the tire make the noise.

 

[carlover]

i agree with the sway bar end links being the culprit. i had the exact same sound and i replaced suspension parts one by one with testing on the road as i fixed them. after the end links were replaced the clunk was gone.

 

[97redsport]

I had a shop look at it, my ball joints are shot. They said they could do it for like 350. I will give it some time before I get them replaced.

 

[ExploreNiagara]

Well...not the links...it is a bad wheel bearing and ball joints...

I just bought this truck from a dealer under the assumption that the safety was done properly...it wasn't...

May have to sue the guy....not fun at all...

 

[97redsport]

I just bought mine no less then a month, and I have to stick about 1800 into it. You and I bought the X's as, as is. They also told me it passed inspection. They only fix things that are going to brake soon with very bad signs of wear, or leaks oil, coolant, etc.. Thats what they told me when I got it. I am sure it says something in the paper work you filled out when you got bought it. I fell your pain with the same major pinch in the wallet.

 

[dynamite196]

I'm in a similar boat bought a 97 sport that was supposed to have only a couple of things wrong with it for 1500. He told me it had a burnt valve and it needed front brakes soon as well as a couple other things. Well turns out I should've looked at it closer, now 2500 deep in parts and countless hours of my own labor and the truck still isn't mint (it's close though lol). Good news is, should be good for another 80k now that i've literally replaced 90% of the main parts.

 

[ExploreNiagara]

Update...
Ok so the truck now has a new wheel bearing(left side) and right side upper ball joint...still a clunk...can't seem to find it...
Oh ya ...had to get two new tires today ...Merry Christmas...LOL( and I was even able to lower the spare last night in the cold and rain..)

How do I really know my mechanic put in a new wheel bearing ????

Still love the truck though ...

Merry Christmas Guys and Gals !!!!!

 

[ma96782]

FYI:

How to check the lower ball joints:

Jack up vehicle and support it under the lower control arm so the wheel is an inch or two off the ground.

Grab the wheel at the 6 and 12 o'clock positions and try to rock the wheel in and out while someone watches the ball joint. There should be no play. If any side to side play in the balljoint is seen, replace it.

Place a pry bar between the floor and the tire and lift up on the pry bar. The ball joint should have very little or no vertical deflection. If the deflection is more than about 1/16", the joints should be replaced. (I've noticed that even new factory joints have some vertical deflection.)

Balljoint life is very dependent upon the driving conditions. My '01 XLS needed to have the lower ball joints replaced at 28K and again at around 40k. Ford uses a non-greasable lower ball joint from the factory, and they don't last very long. When replacing the joints, DO NOT BUY FORD BALL JOINTS!!!! Use a Moog or TRW greasable ball joint and you shouldn't have to replace them again for a long time.


With the tire off the ground, grab the top with one hand and the bottom with the other and see if you can induce play by pulling and pushing on the tire with both hands at the same time, one hand pulling out while the other hand pushes in, and vice versa. It should feel pretty tight. If not, voila!, bad ball joint. You should be able to feel which one is bad, upper or lower.

You're right in saying that if you replace one, do the other at the same time.

What would really be nice is if you had someone that is experienced with checking ball joints so they could make sure your diagnosis is correct. If you don't know anyone personally, any front end shop should be able to check your ball joints for you for nothing or a minimal fee and also you can watch them and see how they check them.

_____________________________________
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Here was what I did, It took right around an hour.
-We start on jackstands with no tire and nothing under the control arm yet.
-Remove all braking components
-Remove sway bar end links
-Remove axle nut
-Remove Hub/Bearing assembly
-Disconnect TRE
-Push stub axle back through the hole in the spindle and out of your way
-Remove cotter pin and castle nut from Lower BJ
-A few quick hit's with a 1 pound deadblow released the BJ from the spindle (strike the control arm)
-Grab the trusty BJ Press and propane torch.
-I put as muh pressure on the BJ as I could get with the press and an Impact wrench
-I then aimed the torch at the area and leaned back to have a smoke
-By the time my cig was done the BJ had begun to move on it's own and was relatively easy to press in.
-Let the area cool back down some before replacing with new part
-To press the New BJ In I found that it was easier to take my floor jack and fit the install cup from the BJ Press on it. The lift up on the bottom of the BJ I had started by hand. It won't press in all the way like this , but once you start to lift the whole vehicle rather than the control arm, get that trusty 1 pound deadblow back out and start tapping the control arm in a circular motion around the BJ. The vehicle weight combined with the tapping pressed them in a lot easier than the press.

P.S. Don't forget that the BJ boot has a notch in it which faces in.
__________________

REPAIR:

http://www.haroh.com/explorer/ball_joint.html

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http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=149449&highlight=ball+joint+tools

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Aloha, Mark

 

[ma96782]

And..........

You may wanna read this......look at a possibility of all the suggestions:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...ad.php?t=166106

Who knows, what will fix it......clunks and trying to fix a problem via the internet......need I say more?

More possible..........

2nd Gen Torsion Bar -frt end clunking sounds

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=163197#post163197

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=166176


Lift and Torsion Bars Removal

http://www.superlift.com/instructions/9630.pdf


2nd Gen clunk pads:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=159065&highlight=torsion+mounting


Explorer 2nd Gen Hub Fix (w/pic):

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=149326

Really now.........there are many more possibles.........good luck.

Aloha, Mark

 

[ExploreNiagara]

Information overload....lol
Ok..so..I have jacked truck up by the lower control arm...no play in the wheel at all...tight tight...

Maybe it is the torsion bar adjuster...BUT...its Christmas eve and I don't have the time to do it now...I will just have to turn up the stereo to make the clunk go away...LOL

Thanks for all the input...this site is awesome..

Kev

 

[97redsport]

Man I would look into your ball joints. I have the same clunk when I run anything over. I have had 2 different places look and thats what they said.

 

[expl0rerct]

I am having the same issue with my 2000 Explorer XLT. When going over certain bumps, I hear a clunk/thud. I looked at the front suspension on the driver's side, and I noticed that the stabilizer (sway) bar link bolt head was missing! It must have corroded from all the road salt up here in CT.

I have to go out and buy the link bolt kit now from my dealer, and see if this clears up the problem.

Update: I just replaced both the left & right stabilizer bar link assemblies - clunk is gone !!! I would recommend buying an aftermarket link kit - I bought a Spicer brand kit for $27 and change. You get BOTH the left and right link assemblies for this price.

On the other hand, the Ford part is way overpriced (around $45-$50 each !!!) So you would pay almost 4x more for the pair, and the Ford part is not even coated to withstand corrosion.