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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
I need to replace the inner u-joint on my '94 explorer. My question is how do I get the axle out of the diff? Is there a locking paw or do I have to remove the diff? A schematic of the whole diff assembly, including the axles, would be nice if anyone has one. Thank you in advance for your help in this matter.
Getting the diff out can be alot of fun too. There is a bolt that runs through the axle arm and the housing to strengthen that area. It is about 5 inches long and is unfortunatly covered by the driver's side radius arm and cannot be removed without at least loosening and clocking the radius arm outward.
You can see it if you veiw the pig (differential case) from the pinion yoke side (viewing toward the front of the truck). The bolt runs up and down on the left side of the housing and near where the spring bolts to the axle beam.
If it is still there, these sometimes are left out by previous owners, plan on removing the whole axle beam and arm assembly. But I might try doing the u-joint in the truck, I never have done one that way but its worth the shot.
Allot of useful info there, thank you very much! I just have one more question. What is the consensus on the best way to get out the pesky 11th bolt? I've read of several methods on this and have yet to make a decision on how to get it out. Do I grind down the radius arm; do I remove the 2 bolts on the front of the radius and swing it out or do I remove the whole housing? I'm leaning towards removing the 2 bolts and swinging out the arm but I want to make sure it's the best/easiest way.
I'm considering eliminating the c-clip, just not sure if it would be in my best interest to do so. I don't do much off-roading with it, just the occasional boonie cruise. But thanks for the link, I appreciate all the help!!
...If you read further in that thread, Meterman just did the pumpkin pull also...With a stock set up, you have to remove the RA to remove the bolt...At least, remove the top bolt, loosen the bottom bolt, and rotate the arm just enough, to get that long bolt out...
...Some have gone as far as to cut that bolt out and that is why people find it missing on their trucks...It is much harder to re-install the pumpkin with that bolt missing...
..Meterman had already found that a previous person had ground a notch in his RA to remove that bolt...I did not do this so I could keep the integrity of that radius arm...
I would not cut a notch without the plans to weld gusseting material around the area. The bolts are large and probably rusty and will take some consideral effort to loosen. Use a breaker bar, the CORRECT size socket and a very long modivation pipe. Trust me, use the correct metric socket. I rounded off the spring stud and wound up having to torch the thing off. Soak those things too for about a week with liquid wrench before starting your project.
I would not advise removing the c clip. You want the slip joint to do the work, not the diff gear splines. You may never have to replace the joint again for a very long time anyway, so long as you run the 4x4 occasionally. Converting to manual hubs and leaving them engaged every now and then, will serve the purpose nicely. With them you can leave the front axle live while the t-case is in 2wd.
...Just to be a little clear on the C-clip Eliminator I posted a link to, it is External and lets the slip joint do the work while the splines stay where they are suppose to...
Well, I haven't put it all back together yet. What would you like pics of? I can give details on what I torched and stuff. Basically, the u-joint was in such bad shape that the slop it had gave me the room to cut posts going into the caps on the shaft coming out of the diff. I then used an air hammer to "lightly" tap out the caps. Tomorrow, I will clean up the yokes, and attempt to reinstall the slip shaft section to the diff section. I will take some pics of what I do, just need to know what you would like pics of
Oh it worked out great. Hardest part was positioning myself under the vehicle so the hot metal wouldn't fall on me. I just cut through the 2 posts leaving the caps in the yoke, then pounded out the caps towards the inside of the yoke. It was a little more work to get the rest of the u-joint out of the slip shaft section, but it was pretty easy since everything was hot. I know if I ever have to change that u-joint again, I'm gonna do it this way.
Like I said, I haven't re-assembled it yet, I'll take some pics and let ya know how that goes.
