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Front wheel bearings

Jim Galloway

Member
Joined
June 20, 2001
Messages
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City, State
Stuart, Fl
Year, Model & Trim Level
Explorer 93 XLT
Has anyone here ever changed their front wheel bearings? How long did the job take you? Where can i get the 2-3/8 " hex locknut wrench?

I have grinding sound from the front right wheel whenever I turn. I pulled the tire off and found I have some movement when i push and pull my rotor in and out. Its not the ball joints, I assume it loose bearings?

thanks
 



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I did my bearings not to long ago, and i have the explorer maintence book, that helps out alot.
The Job to do both sides took us about 4 hours, with the 4 wheel drive parts.
If you don't have the Explorer Maintence book, i suggest you pick it up before you start.
What do you need 2-3/8 " hex locknut wrench for?
 






Hey,

I also have a 4X4. Thanks for the reply. I do have the maintenance book. In the book it says I will need a 2-3/8hex lock nut wrench to remove the wheel bearing adjusting nut. Did you use something else, or were you able to get it off by hand?
 






When repacking the greece in the bearings, give some thought to using synthetic.
 






does it say in the book that the wheel bearing adjusting nut may be able to be hand loosened???
I didn't need any speical tools to do mine.
Any questions jus let me know
 






bearings

I did mine in about 2 hours, it's not very difficult at all. Make sure you have a strong magnet or a very tiny screwdriver to get that pin out before you take off the nut...you'll know what i mean when you get to it. I used the 2 3/8" wrench...i'm not sure how you'd get the job done without it...atleast done right. At the end you need to tighten that nut to the proper torqure, and that would be awful hard to without the wrench. You should be able to get the lock nut off without the wrench, especially if you're wheel bearings are loose, but tightening that nut to the proper torque is crucial if you want your new wheel bearings to last. I'm not sure where to pick one up....all it is is a giant 2 3/8" socket. I bought one from a guy off this website about 2 years ago, i imagine most parts stores would have them though. All in all it's a pretty easy straight forward job.
 






This may not apply to your 93, but I am fairly sure my 96 has floating rotors. If I pull my wheel off, I have movement in the rotor because it is the tightening of the lug nuts that tightens the rotor down. If that's the case, that may not be an indication that your bearings are bad (not that they arent'). Sorry if I'm way off base on this one.

-Kevin
 






rotors

I'm not sure which year they switched to that style rotor, but i know on my 94', and i would assume all earlier, they do not have this type of rotor...to pull the rotor off requires repacking the wheel bearings. I think they went to the style you're talking about in 95'.
 






Hey folks, I just did front wheel bearings on my '94 4X4 and it was simple. If you've never done it and you have a Haynes manual, I would say 2 hours each side.
 






Mac or Snap-on tools

Go down to your local dealership or auto mechanic shop and find out when the guy selling MAC tools or SNAP-ON tools comes around. He has the right socket. You cannot buy it at the regular autoparts store. I got mine when I saw the MAC truck sitting out front. I walked in, gave him $25.00 even and I was set! Good luck.
 






Jim, I did the beerings in my 92 a while back except I replaced the auto hubs with manual ones at the same time, this meant I only needed the socket for the manual hubs. The nut comes off very easy when the pin is removed, I used a magnet but a very small screwdriver or paper clip and some patience would work, the final torque on the nut is only 16lbs. I highly recommend switching to the manual hubs, they give a much tighter feel in the front end and are more secure off road, no slipping, the final torque on the manual hubs is like 150lbs.

Back to the beerings, don't forget to change the beering races out with the new beerings. I had that grinding noise when I turned to the left and it ended up being the right side that was bad. It's a MUST you change both sides at the same time, NO alignment needed after. It took me the average, around 2 hours per side, taking my time. The price for the socket was around $30 and I found it at a local truck shop, BWS here in Fairfield, Ca.

Good luck,
FM
 






FM, Hey, Just cruisen this site and seen you are from Faifield. I am here at TRAVIS, We oughta hook up and throw some mud (or dust ) some day. By the way, CarQuest had the socket(s) needed for bearing job in stock. Job took me about an hout total with with frequent beer breaks!

AMMO TROOP
93' Sport
Gibson headers,cat-bac
Jacob wires, Hyper chip
31" AT, Warn hubs
2.5" lift
 






Sounds good! I'm taking the family camping this weekend but dust, mud, or snow sounds good.

And talk about taking breaks, you noticed how I spelled "*beer*ings", didn't you?

FM
92' Navajo 4WD 2D
4.0L w/flowmast cat back and K&N drop in
manual hubs and 4.56 gears
31x10.5 BFG AT's
3" suspension lift
more to come on the engine this year, maybe a new one!
 












Races ?

How important is it to change the races in the rotor when you change bearings? I read somewhere that you should always change them when you change bearings. I suspect they'd be a bit%h to get out.
 






Anyone replaced them on a '95+ model? How'd you do it?
 






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