The only Motorcraft offered on RockAuto for the 4th Gen is a "service grade" variety, which I suspect is sourced from China. This is not the same quality as the 3rd gen HUB-67 OEM version (which some have said was made by Timken).
There is a suggestion on this thread that the only differences between the two front hubs is the length of the ABS wire. If true, and your old wire is still good, and you can pry it out of the hub without breaking it, then you'd be better off buying the HUB-67 (see the 3rd gen pick list), not the 4th Gen Motorcraft "service grade" part. Service grade is lower quality/cost line designed to compete with aftermarket stuff, for high-mileage vehicles that people don't want to spend more $$ for parts on, based on my research. If anyone else has alternative, reliable info, I'm all ears. I have no idea why Ford only offers "service grade" front hubs for 4th gens now--but it might have something to do with the fact that (I believe) they sold a lot less 4th gens than 3rd gens.
I've read that the timken and the OE wiring harnesses are identical. If you order the Timken part, and you can successfully pry out the ABS wire from your old hub (they sometimes break), you can save a little hassle by using the old wire, and save the new wire as a spare (or sell it on Ebay). As an aside, you can also buy the ABS wires (OE and aftermarket) new, separately, but they ain't cheap.
According to Ford Tech Makulocko (sp?), on 4wd models, proper torque of the axle nut is critical. He says in a YouTube video (5 years ago), that you can ruin even an OE hub in 5,000 miles if you don't accurately torque the axle nut (for proper "preload"). I'm not sure if this is all in his head or not, b/c I'm not seeing how the same hub, mounted to a 2wd model, operates so well w/o any "preload" from an axle nut at all. Just sayin' . . . .
I got 195k miles out of each front bearing on my '02 (3rd gen) Hub-67 Explorer XLS (2wd). Pretty good. I replaced them with WJB HD hubs (so far, perfect) b/c I figure that truck is not going to last more than 300k miles before it starts rusting badly. Seemed cost efficient. I also used never-seize around the interface between the hub and the knuckle (the surface that is most responsible for causing the hub to be hard to remove), relying on the new hub bolts and geometry/physics (rather than rust) to hold it all together. Works perfect, and it will be much easier to change a second time, if nec. So far, no issues.