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Fuel Preasure Regulator

ruzztec

Well-Known Member
Joined
January 14, 2002
Messages
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City, State
McCreary County,KY
Year, Model & Trim Level
92 XLT 4.0/99 XLT 4.0
I was told that becuase my fule guage was having probs to check the fuse to measure the current to the pump. They said it should read no lower than 4A and it read 2A. They said susspect the fuel presure regulator or the pumpand its associated electrical curcuit. Well I dont really know where the regulator is and how to check it. As far as the pump...the gas tank is a bit*h to get down. Like rusted bolts bad! Any care to take a stab?
 



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Someone posted a picture of it

about two months ago but can't find it. As you look at the engine, it will be on the left side in about the middle (forward to back but more forward) just to the right of the valve cover. Metal can with braided return hose out the top, two bolts holding it to the fuel rail, and a rubber vacuum line out the bottom. So, someone finally tried the current measuring method. Many times you can tap it and the pressure will come back up. It could still be resistance in a connector or relay or even a really bad pump but these usually just stop working. You have definitely identified it as a low pressure problem.
 






:D
 

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Hmm there is a big can that is maybe the size of my shoe round. It has a rubber hose coming out the front! But the can is in front on the streering colum under the hood. If I touch the hose it leaks....making a hissing sounds. It that it?
 






Point of view

"As you look at the engine, it will be on the left side"

I have trouble with my right and left too, read it again. Think it is closer to 1 1/2" X 2 1/2" in size. I really think you should invest in a Haynes manual before you go any further.
 






Why would the fuel gage fail because of low pump pressure?
I saw a thread somewhere on here that suggested that the sending unit float had sunk, so it needed to be taken out, dried out and resealed.
 






anchored, your right

I would be concerned except 20 posts later we'll get this "I'm going to take it to the dealer" story and the whole effort will have been for nothing. I don't know what the actual problem is and for all I know he is measuring 2A going to the interior lights. When people don't bother to read and research how things operate they just string together whatever words pop into their head. Replace enough parts and it just might work. Replacing a fuel pressure regulator on a 92 isn't such a bad thing to do. Ask the right questions and you'll get the right answers. If people don't waste time and money they never learn anything.
 






Guys I have had a hayens for awhile and it is covered in diff oil from prevoius work. I did measure the correct fuse. Even the back of the box said witch one was correct. The gauage does not just sink. When the car is left alon for about 3 min the guage meassures 1/4 of a tank. Then drops to E the the key is turned. SOmeone on here said to check the fuse and I did. It was under the meassurement they said was min. But now I dont quite know what to do. Even if I do remove the part...is it fixable? Becuase it liek $64 at autozone. I dont want to pay that much. And I will not take it to a dealer. I do all my own work. When I need help I ask not pay to have someone else do it.
 






I am still in the dark

As to what the problem with the vehicle is.

1. If you are measuring 2A at the fuel pump fuse, the engine is barely running, if at all or your meter is very inaccurate. If the engine runs poorly it might be a fuel pressure regulator.

2. If only the fuel gauge is not reading then the problem is probably the float. Some claim there is a voltage regulator for the instrument cluster. I don't think there is but I am open to new ideas. There is a circuit for the fuel gauge that averages out the sender readings over a long period and keeps the needle from bouncing. One quarter tank may be the natural resting point for the gauge and it slowly drops to E over a three minute period to reflect what the sender is seeing when the car is started. The floats are known to get a little pin hole in them. Supposedly you can get just the float for $5. Get a new one. Few people are talented enough to repair them. Trouble is you have to drop the tank. The sender goes from 170 ohms full to 15 ohms empty. A short on the sender wire would also cause it to read empty. When the sender has an electrical failure it usually indicates a full tank. You can unplug the electrical connector near the tank and the gauge should go to full. Most likely your float has sunk to the bottom. To test the gauge you can unplug the electrical connector near the tank and the gauge will go to F. Sender wires are Y/W and BK/Y and if you put a meter on them they will probably measure about 15 ohms.
 






My x has been lacking power as if it were almost out of gas. or there was ****y gas in it. On a sharp curve I use to pull out on I could get to 4000 rpms and spin the tires. Now Im lucky if I get to 3000 rpms and theres is no was it could spin the tires. I am gradualy lossing more and more power.
 






And what does this have to do

with the gas gauge? Are you now trying to say that the gauge that drops is a test fuel pressure gauge you put on the fuel rail?
 






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