Getting ready to tackle shocks

[Kjhadfield]

Only a few things before I start. I'm trying to find replacement lower rear shock bolts and nuts. I have found this link http://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts...rt-trac/rear-springs-and-shock-absorbers.html and I'm sure the pn's I need are there but no picture/description. I think I narrowed it down by the required quantity column

The bolt being w500572-s426 and the nut being w706333-s436?

The other thing is I know I seen swshawaii mention the wrench to get for the top rears (think it was 13mm flex ratchet-wrench)? Just can't seem to remember where. That size wrench will work for tightening the new tops right?

The last thing is shock compression, mines didn't come wrapped/tied compressed but I'm sure it's compressed. A piece of paper shows I think the rod side compressed and turned to lock in place, so when would I turn rod to unlock to decompress (before, during or after)?

Thanks in advance for any help

 

[swshawaii]

13mm flex head ratchet is for the stock rear upper nuts. Not sure on bottom bolt size, I'll search.
I've always compressed the shocks using a floor jack to line up and install. Here's a couple write ups.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=223149

http://www.mysporttrac.com/mysporttrac/projects/shocks2/ShockProject.htm

 

[Kjhadfield]

I even just read those and didn't take hint to them mentioning having to compress them to align the bolt holes. So I will decompress the new shocks prior to install, I'm guessing just twist and it will expand- should I secure it during initial expansion?

I was going to initially remove the wheel but been going over the idea or just turning the wheels to full lock and squeeze in the space, I would then be able to take this on in my not so level driveway- not sure yet

This is what it looks like? http://www.lowes.com/pd_338386-25428-85707_0__?productId=3387680 I may try to swing by hf if I have a job in the area

 

[swshawaii]

What shocks are you using? You should be able to extend and compress them by hand with some effort, as long as they're not the spring assist type like the Monroe 58617. If they're new you should cycle them several times before installing anyway. Hate to see you spend $25 on a one time use wrench. Not the same GearWrench quality, but you have a HF nearby and could get these instead.

http://www.harborfreight.com/5-pc-metric-flex-head-combination-ratcheting-wrench-set-60592.html

 

[429CJ-3X2]

I just did the front shocks on my '01 ST Saturday. When I did my '02 last year, I took the front wheels off, but this time I left them on. Not too bad. Of course you'll have to reach over the tire to get at the top nut after removing the inner splash shield. Mine were rusted so I cut through the top rubber and shock with a sawzall. Waaayyy faster and easier than wrenching. Just be sure you get the bottom of the shock oriented the right way. The bottom is sloped, not square, and it's confusing. If you're installing Sensatracs, the dimple on the shock goes to the outside. Turn the wheel and work from behind the tire. Jack the truck up from the center of the frame so the lower control arm is unsupported to install the new shock. My front shocks didn't come compressed, but the rears are.

I'm planning to change the rears this morning. When I did the '02 last year, the old shocks used a different sized top nut than the new ones, 10mm and 13mm, I think, but I installed air shocks on that one. Sensatracs all around on this one.

The Gearwrench type open end ratchet combo wrenches are worth buying for this job alone. You can buy the wrenches individually at Sears or the home improvement stores. A little steep individually, but sometimes not bad if you can find a set on sale. The smaller sizes should run around $10-12 each, but I bought a 5 or 6 wrench set on sale for $30. Flexheads are higher, of course. They're handy to have, and you'll use them a lot once you have them. Another one of those, "How did I ever get along without these?" tools.

 

[429CJ-3X2]

Got mine done!!! Everything came apart reasonably well except for the rear top nut on the driver's side. Couldn't get a wrench down on the nut, partly due to the design of the top mount, and probably rust as well. Ended up cutting the rest of the shock off and grinding down the head of the stud and the mounting flange of the old shock. (For a number of reasons I wouldn't recommend doing that except as a last resort.)

Top nuts in the rear are 13mm, as are top and bottom in front.
Bottom rear - 15mm for the head and 18mm for the nut. That's for the original hardware. New bolts for the top rear are 13mm nuts and 10mm heads.

I reused the original bottom bolts in the rear, but probably should replace at least the passenger side. It was tight the whole way out and rust is eating its way through in 1 place, but the rest of the truck will probably fall apart before that bolt rusts through. The nut went back on easier than it came off.

I installed the top bolts in the rear with the nut on the bottom. With the smaller head of the bolt on top, it should be easier to get a wrench on if this job ever needs to be done again. Plus the threads are more protected from rusting if they're pointing down since some genius designer put the drain holes in the bed almost directly over the shock mounts. Also easier to spray the threads with Liquid Wrench or whatever before the nuts need to come off next time.

 

[Kjhadfield]

What shocks are you using? You should be able to extend and compress them by hand with some effort, as long as they're not the spring assist type like the Monroe 58617. If they're new you should cycle them several times before installing anyway. Hate to see you spend $25 on a one time use wrench. Not the same GearWrench quality, but you have a HF nearby and could get these instead.

http://www.harborfreight.com/5-pc-metric-flex-head-combination-ratcheting-wrench-set-60592.html

Went with the rancho 9000 xl whatever. Yes I'll probably go with hf for price- just wanted to make sure I was looking at the right kind.

Ok, cycle shocks before install

 

[Kjhadfield]

Got mine done!!! Everything came apart reasonably well except for the rear top nut on the driver's side. Couldn't get a wrench down on the nut, partly due to the design of the top mount, and probably rust as well. Ended up cutting the rest of the shock off and grinding down the head of the stud and the mounting flange of the old shock. (For a number of reasons I wouldn't recommend doing that except as a last resort.)

Top nuts in the rear are 13mm, as are top and bottom in front.
Bottom rear - 15mm for the head and 18mm for the nut. That's for the original hardware. New bolts for the top rear are 13mm nuts and 10mm heads.

I reused the original bottom bolts in the rear, but probably should replace at least the passenger side. It was tight the whole way out and rust is eating its way through in 1 place, but the rest of the truck will probably fall apart before that bolt rusts through. The nut went back on easier than it came off.

I installed the top bolts in the rear with the nut on the bottom. With the smaller head of the bolt on top, it should be easier to get a wrench on if this job ever needs to be done again. Plus the threads are more protected from rusting if they're pointing down since some genius designer put the drain holes in the bed almost directly over the shock mounts. Also easier to spray the threads with Liquid Wrench or whatever before the nuts need to come off next time.

That's the reason I want to get new rear lower bolts/nuts before I start on the rears. I have noticed on at least 1 YouTube or picture the nuts on the bottom (for the rear uppers) and thought that might be a good idea, was there a torque for the rear uppers/lowers and front lowers. I know the front uppers are squeeze the bushing to match up to the washer od.

when I spayed the bolts last week, looking around I noticed my rear end link bushings are shot. now I'll have to look for that, preferably es- although I haven't had much luck on the rear sway bar bushing from es. I'm hoping to tell a big difference with just the shocks, before I can get to the rear links. I don't drive much let alone over 60 but last weekend I felt how bumpy the truck was and I don't think the road was all to blame. I think I have some front end part that's jacked up (my slightly loose steering and pull to the right are driving me insane)

 

[429CJ-3X2]

I'm sure there is a torque # for the rear, but I just wrenched them tight. My truck drives like a different truck with the new shocks. It has some play in the steering - in the rack I think since most of the front end has been replaced - but not as much as I thought. Before the new front shocks it felt like the steering was loose and the bumps and dips in the road were steering the truck. With just the new front shocks, the steering tightened up considerably. Got rid of the squeaks too. Now with the new rears too, it really feels like a different truck - and that's good! Feels like a truck I want to drive. Almost an unbelievable difference, but my old, original, shocks weren't doing anything but taking up space.

 

[swshawaii]

Here ya go FL bro.

https://www.scribd.com/doc/272331030/Front-Suspension-8212-4x4-Specifications
https://www.scribd.com/doc/272330994/rear-suspension-specifications-pdf

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/4.5153

 

[Kjhadfield]

I'm sure there is a torque # for the rear, but I just wrenched them tight. My truck drives like a different truck with the new shocks. It has some play in the steering - in the rack I think since most of the front end has been replaced - but not as much as I thought. Before the new front shocks it felt like the steering was loose and the bumps and dips in the road were steering the truck. With just the new front shocks, the steering tightened up considerably. Got rid of the squeaks too. Now with the new rears too, it really feels like a different truck - and that's good! Feels like a truck I want to drive. Almost an unbelievable difference, but my old, original, shocks weren't doing anything but taking up space.

See that's what I want- to feel like a different truck and want to drive it. good to hear on the shocks and steering, I didn't think 1 would benefit the other.

 

[Kjhadfield]

Here ya go FL bro.

https://www.scribd.com/doc/272331030/Front-Suspension-8212-4x4-Specifications
https://www.scribd.com/doc/272330994/rear-suspension-specifications-pdf

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/4.5153

Right on with the suspension specs.

That es pn I have saved in my browser but only because I wasn't sure I'll get that ordered in the next couple days. I was thinking about getting new rear links, maybe moog- I don't suppose it's as simple to remove/swap the bushings with the es as it will obviously be with the front moog links. If I got new links at least the bushings won't be fuzzed like with the old

 

[swshawaii]

Replacing rear end link bushing isn't difficult, just messy. Removed both end links and lit them with a propane torch, dunked them in water, and pried them out easily. The project linked shows the bushings being chiseled out which sounds like a PITA with the chance of damage like he did. Just make sure you are outdoors due to the smoke and dripping rubber flame balls. I am 100% certain the ES 4.5153 rear kit fits the ST, even Explorer Express had it listed at one time.

http://www.mysporttrac.com/MySportTrac/projects/Endlink_Bushings_Replacement _Gen1.pdf

 

[Kjhadfield]

Replacing rear end link bushing isn't difficult, just messy. Removed both end links and lit them with a propane torch, dunked them in water, and pried them out easily. The project linked shows the bushings being chiseled out which sounds like a PITA with the chance of damage like he did. Just make sure you are outdoors due to the smoke and dripping rubber flame balls. I am 100% certain the ES 4.5153 rear kit fits the ST, even Explorer Express had it listed at one time.

http://www.mysporttrac.com/MySportTrac/projects/Endlink_Bushings_Replacement _Gen1.pdf

That was the main reason I was thinking of just getting new moog links and swap the bushings with the es kit you linked. I shouldn't have to burn out the new bushings from the new link, should I? Since the rubber hasn't fuzzed as they do on old links. I was hoping that it was a matter of pressing out somehow.

The rear links I was looking at were the moog k80788 (only 14$ and would save trouble of burning) maybe I shouldn't go threw the trouble of swapping to the es bushings if it will consist of doing the same burn method as old links.

I just found this suggestion as a press http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2505532&postcount=6

 

[swshawaii]

That's a much cleaner method and how I pressed out my 3" shorter end links for my drop. Can't imagine doing it with a small 3" C-clamp though. IIRC I used at least a 7" clamp with PB Blaster and it still took some serious grunt to get the bushings out. Should you buy new Moog end links, I don't see the benefit of replacing the bushings. For your application reusing your stock end links with ES poly bushings should be perfectly adequate and still an upgrade. Another problem is that ES, Prothane, Moog, etc. does not sell the 19mm frame bushings separately, the only choice is the OEM replacement frame bushings.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3015693&postcount=29

 

[429CJ-3X2]

See that's what I want- to feel like a different truck and want to drive it. good to hear on the shocks and steering, I didn't think 1 would benefit the other.

I was very surprised at how much difference the new shocks made in the steering. I could understand it when cornering with any speed, but didn't realize it would help that much in just going straight down the road.

 

[Kjhadfield]

I think I'm just going to get the moog links now (just make things as simple and fast as possible) and when I'm ready to do the rear sway bar, get the es kit linked above for the sway bar bushing and put the link bushings to the side for maybe future use.

 

[Kjhadfield]

Swung by hf to grab the flex head ratchet wrench set (10/12/13/14/15mm) for 25$.

Depending on the weather, I may try to do the fronts tomorrow. Depends on if I get called in to work to I guess.

 

[Kjhadfield]

Got my front shocks installed yesterday w/ a BIG shout out to jerry- midnight! The bracket for the lowers weren't on the same angle as lca and I honestly didn't know where to go from there. Was instructed to adjust them (I used 2 adjustable locking pliers, 1 each side and used the ground as leverage) it really didn't move but just twisted (I guess to much grip from the bushing). Twisted it enough to get threads started.

I did not take the tire off and would do it the same way again (unless I had a lift and could stand up, of course). There was plenty of room to do what I needed. I did try a new method to spraying penetrate oil on the bolts/nuts- 50/50 acetone and atf, and I WILL BE DOING THIS FROM NOW ON! Most by now know the rust that has plagued my truck from pictures and difficultly in the jobs so far I have done but not this 1. I sprayed twice the week prior and once right before- it took me longer to get my tools out than to break free the bolts/nuts, literally! I bought a 5pcs set from hf of the flex head ratchet wrenches and used this for the top nut/stud- cake. I fed the stud up 1st then compressed the lower in place, tightened down the lowers hand tight then the top nut fully compressing the bushing. Then back to the lowers to torque down.

In the process I figured out that popping when I would turn hard left- the inner splash, rear of the tire. It just hangs loosely with movement (maybe not if your cladding is on?). Took a look at what I could attach to and there aren't any holes nearby so I'll probably drill a small hole some where to zip tie it back some.

I had put the setting to #6 . Maybe the rears next weekend- if I can find new lower hardware.

 

[HELMUT RONER]

RS5000 Shocks

I used Rancho RS5000 on my 2002 RWD. Did mine not too long ago replacing originals with around 166K on them.


Front Shocks RS5374.
15mm deep socket for top shock nut. 18mm wrench to prevent shaft from turning. The new top nut for the Ranchos are 14mm.

The factory front 2 bottom nuts are 13mm. The new hardware on the Ranchos are bolts and nuts. I forget the sizes.

The rear Ranchos used the same size 13mm nuts as the factory shocks up top and reuse the lower factory hardware.

In my case it was a pain to get to one of the left top nuts. I had to drop the fuel vapor canister assembly out of the way.