Got a '87 sammy from the auto swap this weekend!

[Skyhiranger1]

I assume the 2 senders you are referring to, are the senders that mount in the top of the tranny. One sender is for the reverse lights and the other is a 5th gear indicator sender (IIRC). The reverse sender can be bought new from O-Reillys (auto parts store) for around $17.

The dome light should have a 3 position switch on it (off,auto,on). There should be a button switch at the front of the drivers door that activates the light, when the 3 position switch is in the auto position, and the drivers door is opened.

 

[Positive Vibes]

I assume the 2 senders you are referring to, are the senders that mount in the top of the tranny. One sender is for the reverse lights and the other is a 5th gear indicator sender (IIRC). The reverse sender can be bought new from O-Reillys (auto parts store) for around $17.

The dome light should have a 3 position switch on it (off,auto,on). There should be a button switch at the front of the drivers door that activates the light, when the 3 position switch is in the auto position, and the drivers door is opened.

Thanks for the reply Sky! Any way to tell which sender is which. You are correct they are mounted on the top of the tranny.

There is no dome light just wires. And I looked and looked even had my neighbor look for a switch in the door jam or anywhere else. I'm at a total loss???? I thought it might be controlled by the insturment dimmer switch but that isn't it. I see no visible door switch or where one was even mounted????

 

[Skyhiranger1]

Thanks for the reply Sky! Any way to tell which sender is which. You are correct they are mounted on the top of the tranny.

There is no dome light just wires. And I looked and looked even had my neighbor look for a switch in the door jam or anywhere else. I'm at a total loss???? I thought it might be controlled by the insturment dimmer switch but that isn't it. I see no visible door switch or where one was even mounted????

I can't remember which sender is which, off the top of my head. On mine I had one that was broken and I believe I looked at the wire colors coming off the sender to determine which one I needed (need a wiring diagram w/wire colors on it).
So you don't even have a dome light? Just wires sticking out of the targa bar where a dome light should be? On both my '91 and '92, there is a rubber covered button switch mounted on the body in the door jamb at the front of the door. Maybe older sammys are different?
Also, on mine, when I have the light switch set to auto and open the drivers door, the light will only come on about half the time. The door button switch gets corroded and doesn't make good contact all the time.

 

[tdavis]

You did download the FSM PV? It's in there..

As for the light - I had one. I may still have it; I removed it when I caged the zuk. There is a door switch is on the driver's side, there is no door switch on the passenger side. There is no other controls for the dome light.

The soft top can be repaired at a boat/car upholstoury shop, or a tent/canvas shop.

The door pull knobs have a tendency to break, and they make metal replacements (see trailtough or petroworks for those).

 

[Positive Vibes]

Yes I did and thanks Tom.

I looked again at the door and found a little hole. Couldn't see it before, they rattled caned the Zuk black. So is there any reason for me to get the dome light fixed WE plan on installing a roll cage??

Cool I will check around town for getting the buttons fixed. The dam bar that the soft top sits on is bent and the top doesn't want to fit. I got to bend it back but it doesn't look that easy for some reason.

Yes the drivers door handles in and out are broken the window mechanism on the driver side doesn't work either. Not sure if I should just try and get another door assy. or fix what I got. Any thoughts???

Also I checked the sending units wires and all four wires are black with no markings. Are the sending units the same thing or are they different. Meaning I could buy one and see where it works.

 

[tdavis]

If you want an interior light, there is a replacement light from JCWhitney that straps to the roll bar, and is WAY brighter. I replaced mine with it, and I like it better.

The doors are easier to replace than fix. You want these:

these are $70 for a complete set. They are aluminum - they will not break on you.

 

[Positive Vibes]

Thanks Tom.

I got two doors and seats with some other misc. parts for $200. The windows wouldn't go up and the door handles were toast along with the lining. My seats were majorly toast, so I think I got a decent deal. Now the Zuk is black with white doors with pink trim.

 

[Positive Vibes]

I was thinking. I need to some how connect the front drive shaft, the pinion angle is really bad. Any ideas. Also I was thinking of just pulling the whole body off so I could easily work on the drive train etc. If I did pull the body off I would probably go ahead and install the toyota axles. Whatcha guys think???

 

[jasonb]

do it!

what do you mean you need to connect the front shaft? did you mean correct? if so, don't bother until you decide on the yota swap or not.

 

[Positive Vibes]

Yes, when I bought it he told me he couldn't install it due to the angle. I think its cause he changed the xfer case to a 6:1. Right now I have the dash out, seats out. Only thing left is some wiring if I decide to pull the body off.

So I'm at a point where I either start putting her back together or keep tearing her down. As far as the drive train the only thing that really needs to be done is figure out how to connect the front drive shaft.

 

[TSTONE]

I luv reading your messages about the sammys - I really miss my 91.
Here's a pretty cool site for some South American Pics if anyone is interested.

http://home.off-road.com/~suzuki_4x4_chile/html/grupo.html

 

[Positive Vibes]

TSTONE thanks for the link! So cool pics on there.

 

[jasonb]

well then it sounds like you need to replace the 6.1 tcase with a stocker.. oh wait.. i know someone that would even trade straight up!
seriously i don't see how that would change the angle. the only difference is the gears inside. sounds like maybe he sent his tcase to RRO or someone to get one back that was 6.1 and it has the wrong flange on it. i just don't see how the angle would be off unless he changed more than the gears.

 

[Positive Vibes]

jason, you got a point. So maybe its due to the lift installed. I will call the guy I bought it from and see if he has any info. I doubt he will he seemed pretty clueless about the 4x4. Decent mechanic but no real understanding of an off road vehicle. He claimed it goes any where right now without the front drive shaft??

 

[jasonb]

I think with a standard ole spring over the angle changes by about 2-3°. That may be wrong though. Most of the kits require you to buy drive shaft spacers too. Maybe that's all you need. I'm pretty sure all they do is keep it from coming apart during articulation though. Which end is giving you trouble? the tcase end or other diff end?

 

[Positive Vibes]

Jason it has a spring over and around 3" blocks under the leafs. It sits as high as my X. Didn't know about the shaft spacers, thanks for that info. To be honest with you I haven't tried hooking it up. The angle is pretty bad. I was just going by what the guy who sold it to me said.

How hard do you think it will be to pull the body off and do you think it would be worth it? I'm still debating, do I just run her as is until she breaks or install the Toyota axles now. If its easy to pull the body I think it would be worth the trouble. I would be so easy to work on the axles etc without the body. Whatcha think?

 

[jasonb]

i would take the blocks out for sure. that's probably not helping anything. i'm guessing with that much lift, the dshaft isn't long enough by any means unless he lengthened it.

 

[Positive Vibes]

If I take the blocks out then the 32's wont fit. How should it be lifted? And he did weld blocks in. At least in front he did. I did get the Toyota leafs also woudl those help? I wish I had a digital camera so I could take some pics for you to see.

 

[jasonb]

you should be able to fit 32s with a normal SOA shouldn't you? toyota leafs would proabably lift it some so if you removed the blocks and used those i'm sure you'd clear 32s. maybe some trimming but hey.. its a ghetto trail rig right? i'm not sure on the dimensions of the yota leafs but i'd guess you'd have to make brackets or something to hang them from the frame. if they are wider, you may need to modify the spring perches too.
i've never been a fan of blocks. i'd pull out the cut off wheels/sawzall and remove the blocks and whatever is keeping the 32s from fitting.

 

[tdavis]

Were exactly is this POS at? (sorry)

welding blocks in the front is a no-no.

It's easy to fix the front - YJ springs, shackle reversal, about $100 in parts. With that, you can easily fit 33's. A little more work, and 35's (but I wouldn't do that on a zuk axle and expect it to live)

The rear isn't much more work. Does it even run? Do I need to come down with the F250/trailer, haul it up here and fix the suspension?

It's also probably got a z-link - or some *******ized version of it. Bump steer city with that.