Has anyone actually replaced a timing chain in a 4.0L push rod?

[Raceit]

Well I'm 99% mine is shot. Or at least stretched out beyond it's normal limits. My '91 has got right around 208,000 miles on it. The valve train was completly replaced about 20 or 30,000 miles ago and has been running fine. However I didn't know at the time the timing chain was an issue...(mainly due to the noise from the lifter tick).
Right now I get horriable gas milage and a metal type ratteling sound if the engine revs up...say letting off the gas going down a hill. It's not a lifter noise since I know what that sounds like. It's almost like what a blown cat would sound like. But louder and a bit faster and dependent on engine speed and load.
I have a Haynes and a Chiltons shop manual and I can't tell what all needs to be done to replace this thing. One says the oil pan has to be dropped and then I see a picture that the lower intake manifold was removed. Obviously I'd like to get away with taking the least amount of hardware off.
From a Chilton manual on CD-Rom it just starts you out taking the front engine cover off. Doesn't sound too bad once you get the belts and stuff out of the way. But do you have to remove the pan or intake manifolds to let the front engine cover come off?
I think that's about it. Should I replace anything else while I'm in that far? Water Pump?
Also can I get a "jawed puller" from a auto parts store? Are those cheap?

TIA

 

[RON COX]

No, I'm almost positive the intake and pan don't need to come off. I would also change the tensioner assembly, guiderail, t-stat and chain gears. My Haynes manual doesn't mention anything about taking the items off either.

 

[Raceit]

Thanks for the confirmation Ron. Also just looking at were the front cover would be it does look like it will come right off.

My hope is to get it done over a weekend. I still need to order all the parts ahead of time of course.

 

[Opera House]

Improved performance

I had a 75 PU with the 302 and it ran just fine. About 140K, but who knows since the odometer rolls over at 100K. Decided to replace the leaking front seal when I did the water pump. So what the heck, I got the timing chain too. I had always run vacuum gauge in the cab and with the new timing chain the vacuum increased almost 2 inches at idle! People told me it shouldn't be stretched at that mileage. What an increase in performance. So go for it and tell us what happens. I have a 92 Explorer 4.0 that has a little over 200k on it. I would be interested if you chain has stretched.

 

[Raceit]

Here's a question....

I tried to order the timing chain replacement kit. I guess there are two different types of crank gears. One has slotted key way and one has a tab.

Is there anyway to tell which one I have?

 

[RON COX]

Not without pulling it apart. Every pic I have seen in books has a key. That suck's, I hate when that happens!

 

[PekingMan]

I'm a little confused, I thought you had to pull the engine out to do the timing chain on the Exploders?

 

[Raceit]

The manuals never mentioning having to pull the engine. It sounds like all you have to do is take all the accessories off. And maybe even remove the radiator.

I think what I'm going to do is buy both sets and then return the one I don't use. I talked with www.stevensparts.com and they have new "take-off" parts. They have a timing chain kit for $34. So I'll just get both. The kit comes with the two gears, chain, rail(s), and bolts. Here's the pic.

However they don't sell water pumps. So I think I'll get that from Ford Parts Network. They have that for $56 with gasket.

 

[SteveVB]

slot enlarged late 95

The crank was changed in late 95(model year 96) so those with the 90TM-AB crank have the short slot, and the later models have the long slot- unless you have a 95 engine with a 90TM-AA- crank that was made for the long slot- so since you have a 91 the gear with the tab is what you want

 

[MrMatt]

Hey,

Just posted to get updates on this thread, when you get around to installing if you could post back your results that would be great.

Not sure if this is something I want to tackle myself but im up over 150,000 so I figure its something I should start to think about.

Replacing the valve train is a MUST soon as mine are noisy as hell did you do that yourself or have it done?

-Matt

 

[Raceit]

I'll try and take some nice photos and write up my procedure.

And I did the valve train myself. Or I should say I had some help. Here's the write up I did on that... http://www.explorer4x4.com/lifters/lifters.htm

 

[PekingMan]

Originally posted by Raceit
I'll try and take some nice photos and write up my procedure.

And I did the valve train myself. Or I should say I had some help. Here's the write up I did on that... http://www.explorer4x4.com/lifters/lifters.htm

Sweeeet!

 

[bandlow]

I have been wondering about this myself since my '95 has a leaking crankshaft seal and I thought I would do the timing chain while I was at it. The Ford shop manual I have says the following:

"Timing Chain, Sprockets, Tensioners and Guides

Removal

NOTE:
It is necessary to replace oil pan gasket when removing and installing engine front cover. On Ranger and Explorer vehicles, it is necessary to remove engine to remove oil pan."

I think this is overly conservative since to them money is no object.

I think the concern is getting a good seal at the bottom of the cover since you will have to seal the front cover over the oil pan gasket technically "reusing" the gasket.

Haynes and Chilton's don't say anything about pulling the engine. I plan to try mine "engine in" with a big tube of RTV handy.

Please let us know how it comes out.

 

[Raceit]

I now have everything I need to get going except a thermostat and a special tool.

I went to AutoZone...or whatever it's called now...and asked the guy what size I needed of their Jawed Pullers. (They had a 6" and 4" etc.) He said I needed a Harmonic Balancer Puller instead to do my timing chain. Both tools were under 20 bucks, but which one do I need?
Everything I've read only mentions the Jawed Puller. However the manuals do mention a Crankshaft Damper (Harmonic Balancer), but nothing of removing it. Do I need both?

Any thoughts?

TIA

 

[bandlow]

I think you might need both. The manuals I have show a crankshaft damper (aka harmonic balancer?) remover to remove the crankshaft pulley and a jawed puller for the crankshaft sprocket (which uses a Woodruff key instead of a Torx fastener like the camshaft sprocket).

You probably could try a 2 or 3 jawed puller on the pulley depending on how "stuck" it is on the crankshaft. If it's on there hard you might risk warping or breaking the pulley without using the proper puller. The puller threads into the pulley and pulls close to the center of the pulley instead of around the outside edge.

AutoZone will let you borrow them free, won't they?

 

[RON COX]

I'd get both. Autozone just requires a deposit to rent the tools and you get it back when you bring the tools back.