Has anyone Replaced their Front Bearings on a 95 Exp??

[Fischer]

If anyone has takcled the replacement of the dust seals or bearings in the front end of a 95+ Exp I would greatly appreciate any info they could spare....Advice and any special tools needed....

I am getting the feeling that I am about to be ripped off. I think that I need to replace my bearings or (Ford Mechanic said Possibly Dust Seals).

He siad to do the dust seals are $350 bones!!
(I could buy a set of tools for that)

As I am a broke Joker and leaving for Durango this weekend I feel a sense of urgency. I'd like to do it myself but have very limited tools etc...

Does anyone know of any good mechanics in C. Springs that wont stick it to me??

I was thinking of having it diagnosed then takcling it myself...if it is not too dificult.

thanks a million

 

[Robert]

What is the reason for replacing them? If you are getting the squeaking noise, Ford usually just greases the dust seal to get rid of it. If you do need new dust seals, I've never seen the price to replace them, but Ford will be one of the highest places. Regarding the bearings, is yours 2WD or 4WD. If it is 4WD, you have to replace the entire hub assembly per my Haynes manual. It is a sealed unit and the bearings are not serviceable. If it is 2WD, someone posted a good write-up a week or two ago explaining the procedure for doing it.

 

[countrymz]

2wd or 4wd?

Is your 95 a 2 or 4wd?
I replaced the front bearings on my four wheel drive just a few weeks ago. Its not to bad. Loosen spindle nut, take off wheel, brakes, rotor, unhook abs sensor, remove three bolts then pull bearing assembly out. It is way expensive though. The only place that had the bearings was ford and it was $500 for both.

 

[Fischer]

It is a 4x4

Yup it is a 4x4 and it is making more of a whirring noise than a squeaking

 

[yob_yeknom]

I can help you out. I just replaced one of my hub assemblies this past Saturday.

• You're gonna need a:
• new hub assembly
• new hub/axle nut (cannot be reused)
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• set of 1/2" drive sockets
• 1/2" drive 3" extension
• 3/8" drive breaker bar
• set of 3/8" drive sockets
• rust penatrant (WD-40 if you don't have any)
• large hammer
• large flat head screwdriver
• 3/4" drive breaker bar or wratchet*
• 3/4" drive 1 1/4" socket*
• 3/4" drive 6" extension*

*you can borrow these from AutoZone

1. Instructions:
2. Pry off wheel center cap by using large screwdriver in slot on wheel
3. spray some rust penatrant on hub/axle nut
4. use 1 1/4" socket to loosen nut (DO NOT ROUND OFF)
5. loosen lug nuts
6. raise vehicle with jack and support with jack stands
7. remove wheel
8. look behind rotor and find the two bolts that hold the entire caliper assembly on, then spray with rust penatrant
9. look behind rotor and find 3 bolts that hold hub assembly on, then spray with rust penatrant
10. using large screwdriver, pry brake pads away from rotor
11. using 1/2" drive breaker bar and proper socket, break free 2 bolts holding caliper assembly and remove (be sure to not let the caliper drop and ruin the brake lines)
12. using wire, tie brake caliper assembly to top of upper control arm
13. spray rust penatrant around where rotor sits on hub, hit rotor with large hammer between wheel studs until it breaks free, then remove rotor
14. unplug ABS sensor wire at front of vehicle, then remove all clips holding wire to frame
15. removing brake dust shield
16. using 3/8" drive breaker bar and proper socket, break free and remove the 3 bolts holding the hub assembly on (be careful not to let the breaker bar hit the dust boot on the axle and tear it)
17. pull hub assembly off axle (may require some effort)
18. clean area where hub assembly sets (steel wool or something similar works well)
19. using multipurpose grease, lightly coat area where hub sets and axle splines
20. install new hub (I suggest using locktite on bolts)
21. remove wire loom off of old ABS wire and install onto new wire
22. install new ABS wire and clips onto frame and reconnect at front of vehicle
23. reinstall dustshield and rotor
24. reinstall caliper assembly (use locktite on bolts)
25. put new hub/axle nut on axle, place large screwdriver between wheel studs to hold still, and tighten the nut some
26. replace wheel, hold still with hand, and tighten lug nuts some
27. remove jack stand and lower vehicle
28. tighten lug nuts
29. tighten hub/axle nut to 175-250ft/lbs (as tight as you can get it, DO NOT ROUND OFF)
30. drive vehicle for a few miles
31. recheck to make sure axle/hub nut and lug nuts are tight, then pop wheel center cap back in place

I don't think I missed anything. It's pretty simple and straight forward, so you don't have to be mechanically inclined to do it.

Let me know if you need anymore help.

 

[Fischer]

Thank you

John,
Thank you for the advice. I just went to my local 4x4 shop and we decided that it is a wheel bearing hub assy. Funny as it only has 68k miles. I hope that it wont go out again.

Thanks for all the help. This site is the best for me as I am a new owner and havn't worked much on trucks...

Cheers. I owe ya a beer...

 

[William Schumacher]

my drivers side hub went out at 37'000....
they fixed it under warranty.it made a clicking sound that seemed like plastic getting crushed ??.they tell me that there is plastic gears in the hub ?????
I sure hope that's not true

 

[Fischer]

Plastic gears sounds like my old R/C Car

I hope they are not plastic too. I took her in to the shop. I don't have the tools or the time. Expensive part which is a bummer. Thanks for all the info.

 

[yob_yeknom]

Plastic gears? What plastic gears are you talking about? There aren't any in the hub assembly.

 

[William Schumacher]

the mechanic at my ford dealer told me that there were
some plastic gears in the sealed hub ??and thats why they have been having so much problems with them .

 

[Robert]

I have heard that too, but only for the older Explorers though, not the '95 and up.