Having a heck of a time removing fuel tank (94 Ranger XLT 4.0 Auto)

[DMX]

Turns out the i've sprung a leak in the rear brake lines, right in the hidden area inside the frame alongside the fuel tank (of course)

I've removed the tank shield and straps and the (plastic) tank is partially resting on the ground but I cannot get the clearance to remove it. -- The section is caught on the crossmember and the rear section cant go past the rear axle, even with the truck jacked up enough to raise both drivers side tires off the ground a few inches. Am I doing something wrong?

thanks,
Craig

 

[Scott B.]

No, that sounds right.

You may need to lift the truck higher to maneuver the tank out.

 

[Stic-o]

Try removing the bed of the truck. It's only 6 bolts I think

 

[DMX]

I've seen that bed removal recommendation suggested in a few threads I searched for, I guess I can give that a try too. I take it the bolts are easy to access? I think I read something about needing a T55 star bit and unhooking the wiring harness -- is that all?

 

[Stic-o]

that and you may need to disconect the filler neck. Just take the taillights out and let the wiring fall down to the frame, under the bed.

 

[dorman68]

Remove the bed, its alot easier

 

[DMX]

Ok i'll give that a shot this weekend. I've got the pbblaster ready too just in case

thanks guys

 

[Diff Whack Daddy]

I've got the pbblaster ready too just in case

thanks guys

Start soaking the bolts now.

 

[DMX]

Start soaking the bolts now.

A day or so PB soak + Mapp gas torch at the ready were definitely in the plans.

I'm stuck at work now unfortunately, so I wont see for myself till later, anyone have a diagram of the six bed bolt locations? I'm assuming they're accessible from the top bed surface and impossible to miss but ..... just in case.

 

[Stic-o]

You can see the bolts here. one set up by the cab, and the others behind the wheel wells

 

[DMX]

you all were right, the bed removal was one of the easiest things ever.

I still cant quite get the tank out but at least now I can see the rusted through spot on the brake line. If I can't wrestle the tank free i'll just replace as much of the line as I can reach with the flaring tool and go from there.