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heat blower motor only works on high

Yeah, we got dollar trees and Dollar Generals, I'll have to see if I can find the voltometer, I still haven't gotten to screw with it yet, this past week the weather was crap, it was either really cold or snowing, or windy and I just didn't feel like standing there very long taking stuff out to get to it so when I drive its still either cold or I'm roasting.
 



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must be tough being an outdoor mechanic. I have a heated underground garage but the downside is you can't do big work in the building ... trust me this fix is worth it , so nice to use 1-2 when driving , let me guess you only have 4 which is loud as hell
 






yeah I only got the 4th switch and is hot afterwhile and can be annoying after being on awhile.
 






Hey guys same problem here this AM with blower only works on hihest speed. So to make sure I get this right I go ahead and

1) take out the window was fluid tank to get to this connector
2) Unplug connecter/female and stick a thin flat head screw driver in to clean connectors where the male would plug into it.
3) Then clean the terminal the connector plugs into.

Am I missing anything. If this does not work I take it I need some new parts. Anyone know what I would ask Ford for? I would rather have a piece that is already assembled so I can just plug it in.

Thanks
 






ok so I got the pig tail unplugged and what a pain in the ass that was just un plugging it. Well when doing it I broke the clip on the bottom you have to hold up to get it out. I did snap it back in and it seemed like it was in there tight so I may skip getting the pig tail.

But after cleaning it and plugging it back in I still get one speed (High) so I a sure it is probally the resistor. It looks like 2 smaller bolts hold it in place. My concern it taking those off as they are so rusty.

How long will it go with still working just on high? Or is it just a crap shot of when I will loss high also? Reason I ask is I am thinking about leaving it till spring when I do not drive it. Just hate to try to get the resister pack out and break or stripe the two little bolts that hold it in place. My feeling is having high right now is better than nothing. But if there is a good chance the high speed will go soon I will do my best to get that resistor out tomorrow and see if that fixes it.

When I call the parts store do I just call it the Blower Resistor Motor and they will know what to give me?

Thanks
 






You already did 95% of the work... why wouldn't you change the resistor pack while you're in there?? The two screws go into the plastic housing. They're not tight... just make sure you use the right sized socket on it, that's all. It's not in there tight and doesn't need to be very tight when you install the new one either.

It's a $15 part and any parts store should have them on the shelf... Ford has used that exact same part on darn near every vehicle (without electronic HVAC controls) for the last 30 years. I'd be surprised if nobody had it in stock.

Ask them for the 'blower motor resistor' They'll all know what you're talking about. (or at least they should...)
 






Sounds good I will undo those 2 screws and pull the resistor out and put the new one in. I may have to get that new pig tail if I find it does not stay in there tight since I broke the bottom tab on it.

I was just worried I would screw something up getting that next piece out and then have no blower at all but I will do it since everything is already apart.



You already did 95% of the work... why wouldn't you change the resistor pack while you're in there?? The two screws go into the plastic housing. They're not tight... just make sure you use the right sized socket on it, that's all. It's not in there tight and doesn't need to be very tight when you install the new one either.

It's a $15 part and any parts store should have them on the shelf... Ford has used that exact same part on darn near every vehicle (without electronic HVAC controls) for the last 30 years. I'd be surprised if nobody had it in stock.

Ask them for the 'blower motor resistor' They'll all know what you're talking about. (or at least they should...)
 






I have a similar problem, only 1 2 and 4 blower settings are working, am gonna try fix it tomorrow by cleaning the contacts.

Can someone give me a quick guide how to remove the washer fluid bottle and anythgin else thats neaded to be removed to be able to access the connector ?

appreciate any help
thanks
 






First remove the speed/cruise control piece. I forget what the proper name is for this piece. This is the black thing to the left of the washer bottle when standing facing the fender. There is one bolt that holds it on which you will see on top of the fender. It goes down through the fender into this black piece (Speed Control). Pull it off the fender and push it to one side. There are wires still attached but you can move it enough to get it out of your way.

You will see all the bolts for the washer fluid bottle. Just take those off so it is loose and you can move it around a bit. Once this is out you will have access to resistor and plug.

If I was you I would just buy the new resistor since you will have everything apart anyway. It is only $18 bucks. If it is the orginal it is most likely bad anyway.

I just replaced mine today and have all the speeds back now.

I will tell you getting the plug out of the resistor was a pain the ass. I actually broke the bottom prung but it snapped back into place even though it was broke. I will get a new pig tail at some point and replace that also.

Good luck it is easy


I have a similar problem, only 1 2 and 4 blower settings are working, am gonna try fix it tomorrow by cleaning the contacts.

Can someone give me a quick guide how to remove the washer fluid bottle and anythgin else thats neaded to be removed to be able to access the connector ?

appreciate any help
thanks
 






Thanks for the info, appreciate it and that makes things a lot more clearer, Ill have to visit my local Ford garage and try find the part, as im in the UK im sure it'll be a different part number to the US, plus twice as much money!!
cheers
 






Just for anyone else, i did this on my 98 Ex (uk spec)

Just done this and took me 40 minutes (20 minutes trying to find the bolts i dropped!)

The replacement part in the UK is Ford part number: F4597402


1. Remove the two 8mm bolts that go into the right hand inner wing on this unit (speed control servo ?) then lift it up slightly as theres a tongue at the bottom that slides into a slott in the inner wing.

s3ptav.jpg


2. Unplug the power lead to the bottom of the speed control unit and move the unit away from where your working.

3. Remove the 8mm bolt (mines now a screw as i dropped it putting it back in!!!) from the clip thats holding the 2 metal pipes (you can then move these over slighty to get more room, only 10mm or so but its enough)

59zcqe.jpg


4. Unplug the blower elctrical plug (again this just gives you a bit more room to work in)

25uiqkl.jpg


5.The item below is what your trying to get to (use the 2 metal tubes bracket for reference)

2remrrr.jpg


6. The blower resistor is held in by to 8mm bolts,(see below) remove these scres, i took the one on the left out first as it was harder to get to.

e7ib2b.jpg


7. I also used one of these which was invaluble, however if you dont have one then a 1/4 ratchet drive with a small extension and 8mm socket on the end should be fine.

fdy7h2.jpg


8.Leave the electrical plug connected untill you have the resistor out as there are 2 plastic clips holding it in, one on the top and one on the bottom that you cant get to till its out! It took a couple of minutes to wobble it free due to the rust on the contacts (see below)

9. As you can see from the picture, THIS is the problem, the contacts get rusty on the plug, i used a small flat bladed screwdriver to remove some of the rust till i saw bare metal on the plug and then plugged the new resistor unit it.

2wlym2h.jpg


10. Fit everything back in reverse order!, mine now works on all 4 speed settings:)

I dont know if the resistor was actually faulty or if it was just the rusty contacts that were causing the problem, what you could do is just unplug the electrical plug and try clean the contacts on both the plug and the resistor unit however it will be difficult getting to the resistor contacts without removing it and for the sake of 6 quid its worth putting a new one in i though!



Hope the above helps.
 






The contacts get rusty, the resistance goes up, which causes more heat, which either trips the thermal overload on the resistor or causes a melt-down of the connector and pigtail.

Like this...
2584147056_b28aa16427.jpg

2584143372_b6ca3e887b.jpg


There was no cleanin' those contacts:
2583323261_bb8213b259.jpg


Oh, and when I installed the new pigtail, I soldered and shrink-wrapped each connection, and used silicone to seal the outside of the connector where the wires enter the back of the connector, and lots of dielectric grease on the contacts themselves. Been running good for the last four years without an issue. :)
 






The contacts get rusty, the resistance goes up, which causes more heat, which either trips the thermal overload on the resistor or causes a melt-down of the connector and pigtail.

Like this...
2584147056_b28aa16427.jpg

2584143372_b6ca3e887b.jpg


There was no cleanin' those contacts:
2583323261_bb8213b259.jpg


Oh, and when I installed the new pigtail, I soldered and shrink-wrapped each connection, and used silicone to seal the outside of the connector where the wires enter the back of the connector, and lots of dielectric grease on the contacts themselves. Been running good for the last four years without an issue. :)

Unfortunatly the guy at the UK Ford parts knew nothing about a pigtail wire so i had to just use the original plug.
 






Great pics. I also broke the tabs on the plug but just choose to plug it back in. It seemed like it fit tight even without those dam tabs. Boy did I have a hard time pulling that plug out as mine was rusted right in there like yours. Mine had the same problem where the contacts were so rusty and one was broken. I also broke the housing to the plug in one spot bit just taped it together. Just a fix till I get a new pig tail. I have gone a couple hundred miles and it has been fine.

Unfortunatly the guy at the UK Ford parts knew nothing about a pigtail wire so i had to just use the original plug.
 






What do you call that ratchet ?
 












Thanks for the info I have a 2000 EB and the same thing only high fan.
The fuse is good and the relay and big fuse in the engine compartment too.
I am going to try this fix as allot of othe relectronic parts on this Explorer were corroded and rusty due to Harsh New England salt and weather.
Will post with the results later.
 






I have a 1995 explorer and I have the same problem, changed the resistor, the blower switch, and the relay, still did not fix it , the fan still only works on high?? any more suggestions?
 






Did you check the condition of the connectors in the plug that connects into the blower resistor ? these tend to get totally rusted up and make no contact with the blower resister contacts!
 



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Yes I did, thank you for suggesting that, do you know where I can find a wiring schematic
 






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