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"Heavier Duty" Tranny for 2000 X

MtDew

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City, State
Northern Indiana ***Unless your the lead dog, the view never changes!***
Year, Model & Trim Level
2003 XLT Explorer 4.6 V-8
Hey Guys

I posted the other day regarding problem with my tranny. It is slipping a little while shifting between 2nd and 3rd. I called a tranny shop locally and the guy told me to add some Lube Guard. He also said that the tranny in my truck was one of the worst on the market and you should absolutely tow nothing with a V6 Explorer. He went on to say that if I insisted on towing my boat (3500 Lbs) I should really consider another vehicle.

Is this correct????? I've had 4 other Explorers, both V6 & V8 and I've never had a problem prior to this one.

Do they make a heavier duty tranny for the V6 Explorer??

Thanks
 



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No. The V8 has a much heavier duty transmission (4R70W), and is much better suited to towing. I tend to agree in some measure with the mechanic you spoke to. The 5R55E's heritage makes it ill suited to towing anything very heavy for any distance on a regular basis.
 






Thanks for the reply Glacier

I just find it hard to believe. I see literally hundreds of Explorers towing everyday in our area.

I talked to my local Ford dealer and he told me that the 2000 V6 Explorers he has seen with tranny issues have all been repairable without removing the tranny from the truck. He says that my slipping issue could be a Mass Air Flow Sensor or a pressure issue.

Any thoughts??

By the way, I only tow my boat a total of 6 or 7 times a year with my Explorer and I rarely pull it more than 20 miles. I also have an Expedition (2004) that I use for road trips pulling the boat.
 






The dealer is right. Both can cause this. In my opinion, by the time we got to later generation 5R55 transmissions, FORD went a long way towrds resolving strength and mechanical issues that plagued some of the earlier A4LD transmissions. The guts of the 5R are essentially fixed and beefed up A4LD parts with bearings added where the A4 used thrust washers. Unfortunately, the 5R is all electronic, and the vlve body and solenoids have become the predominant issue in this transmission to a very large degree. Hence the dealer saying most can be fixed without removing the transmission.
However these problems CAN lead to burned bands and clutches if not attended to. THAT is remove the trans time.

Because the transmission is run by the Explorer's PCM (computer) bad inputs from the engine and other sensors can lead to bad output commands to the transmission. That is why the MAF sensor can affect the transmission for example. Electronic control of automatic transmissions has created a host of problems unknown in the old days when everything was mechanical and hydraulic.

That said, the 4R70W is still a much heavier duty transmission mechanically than the 5R series, and capable of significant upgrades strength wise. The Expedition I believe is using the 5R110 (mind is going but I think that's the trans id... pretty beefy trans that)

Your towing should be ok if there are not a lot of hills involved. Also, turn off OD for towing!! The transmission is much stronger and will last longer if you omit towing in OD (except mayabe for long flat stretches).
 






Thanks Glacier

That's good to know. I never tow in OD. I always turn it off. A habit I picked up in the first days of OD trannys.

I will have my local mechanic test my MAF sensor and see if it is the culprit. Because this issue just occured out of the blue with no warning signs or lights it seems logical that this could be electronic. Especially since the truck has no other shifting quirks.

The Lube Guard didn't seem to do anything for it, by the way. No change at all. Again, this makes me wonder if this isn't electronic.

Thanks for the input
 






Being a first gen owner I know all to well about problem transmissions now being on # 6. I just has my a4ld replaced this week and am very very happy with my results. I had told the shop about my on going problems and explained how I wanted it as near bullet proof as possible so heres what they did-
1)6 planetary gears(instead of 4)
2)heavier bands
3)i believe its a z-pack for the clutch if thats not it the name escaped me
4)shift kit
5)NEW valve body
6)new torque converter
7)new case
8)heavey duty larger trans cooler that bypasses the radiator, and new lines/vaccum hose

Nothing has remained from the last tranny none of the hard or soft parts, and the stiffer shifts are amazing I actually move when I hit the gas now none of that hesitation.
 






Good luck with that new A4LD, I hope it lasts. I have babied my two for a long time.
Did you say that you aren't using the radiator cooler? Most auxilliary coolers aren't anywhere near as good as the radiator cooler.
If you hadn't heard this before, most repeat failures are caused by debris left in the cooler lines. You may have done more to help longevity by bypassing that radiator, but you should consider a temp sensor to monitor the trans.
Personally, I would buy a different radiator, and replumb the aux. cooler to run in series with the radiator cooler. A filter on the inlet side of the trans would be a good idea for a vehicle with a rebuilt trans.
LOL,
DonW
 






Don's advice, is, as usual excellent. Heed it. Oh, and, put your AUX cooler AFTER the radiator.
 






i was thinkin about the temp gauge for awhile now and im not sure how to install it and I really cant afford to have it done right now being that I just shelled out 5k for this truck since beging of December between exhaust,upper/lower ball joints,radius arm bushings and mounts , tires, and now the tranny. Also how hard is it to put in a second filter after the cooler and where does it go?

Yes I did bypass the radiator cause I was worried about old fluid and debris and im new to anything with the tranny cause I dont want to mess anything up lol.
 






That's very good instinct. The radiator cooler is the only place left that can be hiding any debris.
Normally, when adding a filter you would want it close to the trans input side. For a new installation, or when using a new radiator, cooler, torque converter, place the filter on the trans output side. This protects all of the cooler parts also.

The top line on the trans(Ford) is usually the output line. Double check this to be sure. LOL,
Don
 












For a vehicle that has had a trans failure, I'd not take the chance with the original radiator cooler. For what it costs to rebuild these transmissions when they burn up, I'd invest in a different radiator. I understand that others have had good fortune with flushing the cooler and lines.
By the comparison of a replacement radiator, versus the $1500+ that some have had to pay for a second rebuild, I'd call a new radiator cheap insurance.

If that cost is too much, then consider taking the radiator to a radiator shop. Specifically request that they remove and replace the tank which has the cooler in it. I think it would be very reasonable here where I do business. Good luck,
Don
 






thanks for all the help and recomendations guys as soon as I get the $$ together Ill see what my options are and do you suggest I do a flush with my new tranny? it only has 100 miles on it and its not circulating with any original parts so I dont think it could be at all contaminated.
 






We assumed that it was already running, so there shouldn't be anything in the lines. Unless you are towing, hard, your weather will probably be cool enough that you won't overheat in the winter.
Did you change the torque convertor? If you did, then the reliability should be all on the builder and the trans. You have eliminated the other possibilities, congratulations!
Don
 






*takes a bow* thank you thank you lol, Yeah the torque converter is brand new and the shop has been around over 20 years with the same owner and is a member of the better business buero and so I would think it should be a reliable build.
 






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