Hello everyone, I'm new...

[Shealcorn]

I have a 92 Ford Explorer, Eddie Baurer Edition. I've replaced the alternator, starter & solenoid, and the battery terminals. My truck still won't start, I get only a single click when trying to start it. The lights are bright inside and out and everything electrical works. Any suggestions on what I need to do next?

Also, can I get help with uploading a photo of my truck from my computer please? Thanks!

 

[Rick]

Another member had a similar problem here is the thread:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...er-solenoid-still-wont-crank-with-key.409006/

 

[Shealcorn]

Another member had a similar problem here is the thread:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...er-solenoid-still-wont-crank-with-key.409006/

Thank you, I've had all of those done also. I have working power everywhere, it just won't start, but thanks anyway.

 

[Josh P]

Automatic or manual? Has the neutral safety switch or clutch position sensor (depending on transmission ) been checked?

 

[Shealcorn]

Automatic. I haven't been asked that before and I don't know what those test are.

 

[larrydd999]

Do the lights dim when you turn the key to the start position? I realize you said the lights are bright, but have you checked the battery voltage before and during an attempt to start? As you probably already realize, the issue could be anything from a bad contact on the ECU to a mechanically bound up engine.

 

[Shealcorn]

Do the lights dim when you turn the key to the start position? I realize you said the lights are bright, but have you checked the battery voltage before and during an attempt to start? As you probably already realize, the issue could be anything from a bad contact on the ECU to a mechanically bound up engine.

Do the lights dim when you turn the key to the start position? I realize you said the lights are bright, but have you checked the battery voltage before and during an attempt to start? As you probably already realize, the issue could be anything from a bad contact on the ECU to a mechanically bound up engine.

The battery voltage is still at normal and the lights doesn't dim when turning the key to the start position. I'll get those two things checked out next. Thanks.

 

[Oxthe3rd]

Did you check to see if the cables to and from the starter are corroded?

 

[Shealcorn]

Did you check to see if the cables to and from the starter are corroded?

Yes and changed them both.

 

[natenkiki2004]

I've replaced the alternator, starter & solenoid, and the battery terminals.

The way you say this makes me think you replaced the starter & solenoid combo that bolt to the engine. NOT the solenoid that mounts to the fender. Ford used a double-solenoid setup in the 1st gen and many other trucks of that vintage. Which one did you replace?

 

[Shealcorn]

The way you say this makes me think you replaced the starter & solenoid combo that bolt to the engine. NOT the solenoid that mounts to the fender. Ford used a double-solenoid setup in the 1st gen and many other trucks of that vintage. Which one did you replace?

I've changed both of them, they were the first things I replaced.

 

[natenkiki2004]

Alright, just making sure. Let's start off easy. Whip out a multimeter on the 20VDC scale and check voltage on the output side (rear) of the fender solenoid and battery negative while someone has the key all the way turned to the crank position. What do you get?

 

[2stroke]

Assuming you tested the starter before you put it on, either you installed the battery cables wrong, or the battery is bad. The ground to the engine block is vital. The negative cable should bolt right to the block before anything else. It doesn't cost anything to test a battery, and they are the problem 90% of the time. Sometimes you can't even tell with a volt meter.

 

[Chirko]

I've changed both of them, they were the first things I replaced.

perhaps one of the new Relay is also faulty. There is a click? Remove and inspect all individually. Stater, starter relay, starter relay under the hood. That is, the supply power directly from the battery to the starter. Housing "-"! And "+" terminal of the solenoid, starter motor and terminal together. By process of elimination you can find a weak link.

 

[pkn]

Pardon me if I sound stupid... but I did have a situation when (remanufactured) starter straight out of Autozone turned out to be faulty. Click -- oh, yes. Turn -- well, no.

 

[92exp4x4]

Pardon me if I sound stupid... but I did have a situation when (remanufactured) starter straight out of Autozone turned out to be faulty. Click -- oh, yes. Turn -- well, no.

When I was a field tech, I used to get bad new parts all the time. Just because it's shiny and new doesn't mean it didn't get missed by quality control. It happens way more often than you would think. From starters to whole engines and major parts.

I just had an issue where the factory told us to replace a new replacement logic controller in an electric fork truck, I questioned it and we found out they sent us controllers that were not programed. So in a sense, we got a good/bad part, twice.

It's like getting a long block engine with no pistons!

 

[iLoveMyExploder]

I have a 92 Ford Explorer, Eddie Baurer Edition. I've replaced the alternator, starter & solenoid, and the battery terminals. My truck still won't start, I get only a single click when trying to start it. The lights are bright inside and out and everything electrical works. Any suggestions on what I need to do next?

Also, can I get help with uploading a photo of my truck from my computer please? Thanks!

I had this exact same problem with an exploder I used to have.... after I replaced the solenoid, it wouldn't start. I swore up and down I had put the solenoid wires back on correctly- so I started looking for other problems.... ended up doing the pain in the ass job of replacing the ignition switch and other things.... but it turned out- after much frustration.... I put the solenoid wires on backwards. once I switched those wires around- it started up just fine. maybe try that and see what happens.

 

[larrydd999]

I second Nate's suggestion. The click is likely the starter relay located on or by the fender (the solenoid is part of the starter), and it sounds to me that the starter relay isn't switching 12 Volts to the solenoid. If the lights don't dim, then the starter solenoid isn't pulling in. IMHO either the starter relay is bad or mis-wired (or possibly the wrong one), or the coil of the starter solenoid isn't getting 12 Volts (or ground) due to a wiring issue - or is bad.

 

[Shealcorn]

Another member had a similar problem here is the thread:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...er-solenoid-still-wont-crank-with-key.409006/

Sorry for taking so long to respond but I had a medical setback and I'm recovering slowly. I want to let everyone know that my truck is up and running again. After doing everything suggested by all of you I'm on the road again, and I would like to thank each and everyone for your help.

 

[larrydd999]

Glad to hear that things are looking up in both areas. If possible could you let us know what solved the problem? For certain someone else will sooner or later have the identical problem with the identical cause.