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Hello?

brucemc777

Member
Joined
May 11, 2021
Messages
10
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City, State
Falmouth, VA
Year, Model & Trim Level
2008 Explorer XLT
Looking for a good responsive forum for fixing issues with a 2008 Explorer XLT. Bought used in January, roughly 170k on it. Could use guidance as to which specific forum(s) to post questions about:
  1. Transmission (seemed to be slipping when i put it in drive yesterday), and
  2. Electrical (dang front dome light flickers on and off sometimes)
- and i hope to gain enough knowledge about this vehicle to be able to provide help back in the future.

In any event, hello folks!
 



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1. If it’s a v6 the transmissions are anemic. Slipping is never a good sign. 170k and slipping sounds like you very well might have a rebuild in your near future.
2. Probably the bulb, or the way it’s seater in the socket.
 






It is important to let us know if you have a V6 or V8 model. As Mbrooks stated, the V6 comes with a transmission (5R55) that is known to fail and need replaced any time after 100k miles. If yours is still the original then a rebuild, or preferably remanufactured, transmission is likely required. If you have the V6 then I would suggest looking into the condition of the engine. The V6s are susceptible to timing chain guide failure and it is an expensive item to repair that typically calls for engine replacement. To have someone replace both the engine and transmission will run around $6k or maybe more. If you are able to do this repair yourself then it is easier to absorb from a cost standpoint. If the engine is showing signs of the timing chain guides going then I would not put $3k into a transmission replacement because a looming engine failure is probably around the corner. The reason many V6 Explorers and Mountaineers are for sale with over 150k miles is because the engine and/or the transmission is going out. Or the owner knows they will before long and are dumping it before it occurs.

I don't mean to be overly negative but these are things you should know, and consider, before doing a major, costly repair.
 






It is important to let us know if you have a V6 or V8 model. As Mbrooks stated, the V6 comes with a transmission (5R55) that is known to fail and need replaced any time after 100k miles. If yours is still the original then a rebuild, or preferably remanufactured, transmission is likely required. If you have the V6 then I would suggest looking into the condition of the engine. The V6s are susceptible to timing chain guide failure and it is an expensive item to repair that typically calls for engine replacement. To have someone replace both the engine and transmission will run around $6k or maybe more. If you are able to do this repair yourself then it is easier to absorb from a cost standpoint. If the engine is showing signs of the timing chain guides going then I would not put $3k into a transmission replacement because a looming engine failure is probably around the corner. The reason many V6 Explorers and Mountaineers are for sale with over 150k miles is because the engine and/or the transmission is going out. Or the owner knows they will before long and are dumping it before it occurs.

I don't mean to be overly negative but these are things you should know, and consider, before doing a major, costly repair.

It is important to let us know if you have a V6 or V8 model. As Mbrooks stated, the V6 comes with a transmission (5R55) that is known to fail and need replaced any time after 100k miles. If yours is still the original then a rebuild, or preferably remanufactured, transmission is likely required. If you have the V6 then I would suggest looking into the condition of the engine. The V6s are susceptible to timing chain guide failure and it is an expensive item to repair that typically calls for engine replacement. To have someone replace both the engine and transmission will run around $6k or maybe more. If you are able to do this repair yourself then it is easier to absorb from a cost standpoint. If the engine is showing signs of the timing chain guides going then I would not put $3k into a transmission replacement because a looming engine failure is probably around the corner. The reason many V6 Explorers and Mountaineers are for sale with over 150k miles is because the engine and/or the transmission is going out. Or the owner knows they will before long and are dumping it before it occurs.

I don't mean to be overly negative but these are things you should know, and consider, before doing a major, costly repair.
Well folks, that was a lot of information rather fast; thank you! I was only looking for which specific forums i should post the two questions in, but i welcome knowledge however it comes...

The vehicle is a V6 4.0L. This was the first occasion of a suspected slip i have run into, and the vehicle was on a hill facing uphill when i had just started it and shifted into drive. I have started looking for any YouTube guidance on changing the trans filter that i can find (like chicken soup, it couldn't hurt...).

As to the light flashing, i notice what sounds like a relay click almost all the times it occurs above my left knee when i am driving. I wondered if this might be where a relay was, or possibly the sound of a loose part/connection clicking when i hit bumps in the road.

Intended to put these as separate posts in whichever were appropriate forums, but i appreciate the leniency in allowing me to get useful information right here!

Many thanks for your both of your expertise and advice.
 






Filter will be fairly standard.
 






 






1. If it’s a v6 the transmissions are anemic. Slipping is never a good sign. 170k and slipping sounds like you very well might have a rebuild in your near future.
2. Probably the bulb, or the way it’s seater in the socket.
Bulb - I feel like an idiot for not checking that before even thinking of posting, thank you!
Filter will be fairly standard.
Great! But i never did one before...

In the past i was successful in replacing head gaskets on a couple pickups we had with the help of YouTube and a forum, so i am not afraid of this, just was hoping to preview what i am in for!

TY!!!
 






Intended to put these as separate posts in whichever were appropriate forums, but i appreciate the leniency in allowing me to get useful information right here!

Many thanks for your both of your expertise and advice.
You are posting in the right forum.
 






Oh,
You are posting in the right forum.
i thought this was just for new member introductions. Ahhhh, i see the post has been moved over. TY everyone, and a pleasure to be here. In the past i have been in other vehicles that i could wait for a week with no response. Pretty amazed at the support here!
 






Bulb - I feel like an idiot for not checking that before even thinking of posting, thank you!

Great! But i never did one before...

In the past i was successful in replacing head gaskets on a couple pickups we had with the help of YouTube and a forum, so i am not afraid of this, just was hoping to preview what i am in for!

TY!!!

Do you recommend i try setting those two bolts for the "bands" indicated in the video near the end, or am i better not touching those things
 






Electrical (dang front dome light flickers on and off sometimes)
Sometimes the ignition (where the key goes) wear and will cause the dome light to come on while the car is running. If this happens when you are driving, wiggle the key a little to see if it causes the light to go out.
 






Sometimes the ignition (where the key goes) wear and will cause the dome light to come on while the car is running. If this happens when you are driving, wiggle the key a little to see if it causes the light to go out.
Thank you, i'll look forward to trying that!

I realized that i should note that when it does go on, it usually fades out much like when it was triggered by a door opening. Though perhaps without any grounds, i am suspicious of the switch on the tailgate window, but then the "door open" icon never lights up when the problem occurs, so i kind of doubt my suspicion. I also want to find out if there is a relay under the dash over the left driver's leg somewhere, as that clicking sound really seems to time out when it comes on without understandable reason.

Will post what i find next time i drive at nite. Much appreciated.
 






Welcome to this forum! Do you have any stored trouble codes for the transmission? How old are the filter & fluid? Incorrect or old fluid could cause issues as well as a partially clogged filter.
 






Welcome to this forum! Do you have any stored trouble codes for the transmission? How old are the filter & fluid? Incorrect or old fluid could cause issues as well as a partially clogged filter.
Thank you!

No trouble codes read, vehicle bought used near the end of January of this year, actual history unknown. One of the "Scotty videos" (which i find both informative and annoying), pushed changing the filter and PARTIAL fluid change over every 60k or so, which was why i thought, even before the one seemed to slip, of doing so. Believe i am going to use the Valvoline Mercon V approved fluid as around $16/gallon is better than around $50/gallon for the Motorcraft. Have a filter found on Advance Auto / CarQuest that i intend to pick up later today-

Part # 96059
Exact Fit for your 2008 Ford Explorer XLT
;5 Speed Trans.; 5R55S Trans.; 16 Bolt Pan, 2.4" Pick-up Tube; Pan Gasket Not Included. Re-use OE Gasket Unless DamagedAuto Trans Filter Kit; 5 Speed Trans.; 5R55S Trans.; 16 Bolt Pan, 2.4" Pick-up Tube;


Will be the first time getting this beast up on ramps and stands, and needing to control the potential mess, so slightly apprehensive. Noted in a video referred to in the above thread that there are also two band adjustment screws that can be adjusted - kind of thinking not to, just to limit the variables i introduce, but looking on any advice on that aspect of this also, since i'll already be under it (going to change the engine oil also).

Much appreciate the support, thanks again,
-Bruce
 












I have a link in my signature to a thread on adjusting the bands.
Thank you!

Looks like you have everything there except how to make transparent aluminum...

Any suggestions on where to find a small pump for refilling the fluid? I have a 150cc syringe and tube that does great for topping off, but whereas this looks like it could be 5-6 quarts, that would take some time. Looking at the old standby, Harbor Freight, but didn't see anything that was of the right size that didn't rely on being submersible (yet)-
 












Sometimes the ignition (where the key goes) wear and will cause the dome light to come on while the car is running. If this happens when you are driving, wiggle the key a little to see if it causes the light to go out.
You hit it exactly! Is there an easy cure(?), or would i have to replace the ignition lock assembly...
 






You can replace your ignition lock assembly relatively easily. I replaced mine a few months ago. The video linked below shows how it is done.

 



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You can replace your ignition lock assembly relatively easily. I replaced mine a few months ago. The video linked below shows how it is done.


Thank you!

Yes, i did have images of getting to take apart the column and having to involve a locksmith or live with two keys for the vehicle, on for the ignition and another for everything else.

Much appreciated.
 






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