HELP: 1995 Explorer ATX 4WD - Transmission Issues

[ajbrowning]

Hello all, I recently purchased a 1995 Ford Explorer, 4WD Automatic. Had a few issues at purchase that I knew about. Has to clean the MAF Sensor, was going to clean the IAC Valve, but had to replace it, etc. Mostly all minor stuff. Still need to do the TP Sensor still. Don't mind about these things.

Here is my issue. When I got the Explorer, I knew it had a delay shifting into drive, didn't think it was that major of an issue at first. Yesterday, I was driving it for a couple hours, and when I was close to home (about 5 miles away), I lost all forward drive (on the highway). I still have reverse, but no reliable 1st, 2nd, 3rd or OD. I had it towed home, and let it set completely off all night. This morning I tried driving it in forward, i can get a little 1st gear, but nothing I would rely on to drive it anywhere. When I first started researching the issue, I thought that maybe it was a Vacuum Modulator. Well that part apparently ended with the A4LD tranny. I have the 4R55E Tranny from everything I can find out about the truck. So if there isn't a Vacuum Modulator in the truck, and the problem seemed to have been fixed in the A4LD by replacing it when there was this issue, what would cause the same thing to happen in the 4R55E?

I am not sure if this is related or not, but a couple weeks ago I had an issue with the radiator overheating. There was a small leak in the radiator (fixed now), and at one point, I had very little antifreeze in the radiator from it. This lasted for maybe 5-10 minutes of driving before that issue was corrected. Found out in that repair process that the last owner removed the thermostat, and never replaced it. I put a new one in, fixed the leak (weldable area) and refilled everything.

All Fluids are good in the truck. Need to check the color and smell of the ATF, but the level is good. So what could my issue be? Had one person tell me the bands could be warped, and that I would have to have the tranny rebuilt (1500-2000 where I am) and I don't have the money for a rebuild. I am going to do a tranny flush and filter change tomorrow. But I have a sinking feeling that that will not fix my issue. What else could it be? Any advice will help. I am not that proficient with working on trannys but am pretty comfortable doing any work on my truck with the right guidance.
Thanks everyone.

 

[ajbrowning]

Okay, so I did a transmission flush and changed the filter today. So far, have put in 5 new quarts of Mercon V ATF. The old ATF did have a burnt smell to it and it was as dark as used motor oil. Did a quick test when I was done, and reverse works better, but I only had forward gears from 1 and 2, not OD. I could get into OD(D) from 1 and shifting up to D but not directly to D. Seemed to work "okay".

Now to narrow down my issue, when I took it for a drive this evening to go get gas, decided to take a road that would let me shift to all gears. The truck doesn't want to shift into 3rd. Not sure about 4th, I can't get the speed to get to it.

I am inclined to think that it could be just a band adjustment, will try that tomorrow, no light and too cold tonight. Also thinking that it could be something more serious like Shift Control Solenoid, EPC and TCC.

Can someone please help me out here? Need guidance and advice on where to go from here. Anyone else seen or had this problem?

Thanks.

 

[imp]

Perform control pressure check, possible EPC Solenoid failure, should check for trouble-codes.

In view of the burnt condition of the old fluid, my guess is there will be no easy fix, sorry, just my opinion. imp

 

[ajbrowning]

Problem is, I can't get my truck into the local AdvanceAuto to check the codes, and don't have an ODBII reader. I guess I could try to borrow one from someone or see f I can get Advance's for a few minutes. Was wondering how and where to do a pressure check at. Think that is a good idea myself, but not sure what all a pressure check will tell me. Isn't that usually used to see if the pump is still working properly? I still have R-1-2, just not 3-4.
If I end up doing the EPC, I may as well get all the solenoids and replace them while I am under the truck, 4 shift, EPC and TCC. That s pretty much almost a valve body rebuild there. I just don't really have the extra cash right now for all these parts that keep needing to get. Let alone doing another drop on the tranny oil pan, need to do fluid, filter and gasket again. Was hoping to wait at least a few months before I do that again.
How can I tell without pulling the EPC if t is EPC Failure or not? Just codes, or will the pressure test tell me more too?

Thanks

 

[Xplorer82]

im not to savy w/transmissions as far as the problems you are having, but depending on where you are "on the lake" in ohio i am always willing to help a fellow Ohioan out. so if you need a extra set of hands and not to far away im always up for a new learning experience.

its nice to see more & more people from Ohio signing up to the site.

edit.... by the way, i have access to a scanner as well, i would just have to make a call and go pick it up.

 

[imp]

but not sure what all a pressure check will tell me. Isn't that usually used to see if the pump is still working properly? I still have R-1-2, just not 3-4. PCM (computer) schedules operating pressure in these transmissions based on selector position chosen, as well as a bunch of other inputs concerning engine speed, load, throttle demand, phase of the moon (Ha), etc. So, EPC is an important link in the chain.
How can I tell without pulling the EPC if t is EPC Failure or not? Just codes, or will the pressure test tell me more too? EPC can fail either electrically or mechanically; it's electrical condition can be checked using an ohmmeter- coil resistance, and if low resistance present to ground. This can be done anywhere one chooses to get into the wiring. I like to do it at the PCM, right at it's connector. Under the vehicle, the solenoid connector may be removed, but access to the terminals at the transmission case is very limited, at least on Gen III Explorers. Piercing wire insulation is favored by some, but inserts the possibility of causing trouble later, if not adequately sealed up. Ford Shop Manual lists acceptable resistance ranges for solenoid readings with an ohmmeter. Knowing the correct connection requires either access to Wiring Diagrams, or someone here having that info & willing to post it, UNLESS one has access to the equipment Dealerships have, which allow ease of doing these measurements. Removing the sol. from the trans. will tell you very little about it's condition, unless as you hold it in your hand, it has metal flakes around where it mounts to the valve body, or appears burnt; neither is likely on a failed sol. However, it's coil resistance obviously can be easily checked while it is out of the trans.

My '04 displayed code "Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid failed". I measured it's resistance still in the trans., as described above, it checked out OK. So, I pulled the sol. module out, applied 12 volts to the TCC sol.; it clicked quite audibly, as a good sol. should, so I figured, crap, it's OK after all. Long story a bit shorter, I then yanked out the valve body, and lo and behold, on top of it accumulated in a pocket of the trans. case was a bitty pile of bronze granules! I then checked all valves associated with TCC operation for freedom of movement; they were OK. I OWE IT to someone on this FORUM who had matter-of-factly mentioned the bronze guides of these sols. crumble sometimes. Based only on that (and not wanting to pull out the torque converter unless absolutely necessary, I ordered a new sol. module, installed it, and voila! Trans. good again!

Now, please be aware I'm spittin' against the wind here, codes unknown, symptoms rather vague, 4R44, and 55 has lesser diagnostic capability than later (5R55S), so finding the culprit may be difficult. Wish I could be of more definite help, but it's conjecture to a great degree. imp

Thanks

 

[ajbrowning]

Okay, decided that I want to do a pressure test on my Explorer, but have no idea where to hook into for the pressure test. So any suggestions on an where I can hook up the test gauge? Thanks.

 

[imp]

Okay, decided that I want to do a pressure test on my Explorer, but have no idea where to hook into for the pressure test. So any suggestions on an where I can hook up the test gauge? Thanks.

Will try scanning the page in Ford Shop Manual which details this work. This will take awhile, as I am on dial-up ISP service, and it may not be legible anyway; the print is pretty small. It lists all the expected pressure levels for all operating conditions. Bear with me time-wise, if you can. imp

EDIT: Image host would not upload my scan. SEND ME A PM WITH A MAILING ADDRESS, AND I WILL DROP THE PAGES IN THE MAIL TOMORROW, OR AS SOON AS I GET THE PM.

 

[ottergt]

Hi everybody! First time post, just joined the forum.

Did you ever get the problem diagnosed? I'm trying to help out my in-laws with a similar sounding issue on their Explorer. (Used to be ours, then we sold it to them in '04...it now has over 200K miles!) I'll describe it as best as I can...they live in Wisconsin and we live in Michigan, so I can only go by what was described over the phone.

2000 Eddie Bauer, 4.0L SOHC, automatic, 4x4

Her issue is that she has R-1-2, but not 3 or O/D when letting the trans shift itself. The fluid and filter were changed within the last year, fluid level is good, color is normal, doesn't smell burnt.

I suggested that they pick up a code reader and try to check codes. No info yet on that.

--Otter