Help 93 Explorer radio harness

[Spalmer26]

I just bought my explorer a few days ago and found it had no radio so i did some searching online and can figure out which wire goes to what somebody had already cut the factory plug on in the only concern i have is the wire i cut back the grey sheath as far as i can and its still bare i dont know where it goes to if anybody out there is familiar with these color and know what to go to that would be helpful ive never seen a bare wire like that before it has a solid blue wire but i dont see a amp or sub just front and rear speakers

 

[94Sport5]

This may help! It's a diagram for a 93 Ranger but likely the same. The bare wire is either a ground or just for eliminating interference, but this diagram does show two grounds. If you have no diagram or anything to go by like I did at first, you can get a multimeter and test for continuity between the + and - of each speaker and their respective wires in the dash. That will at least take care of the speakers, then just use a meter to find the B+, ground, and ignition/accessory wires.
Take a multimeter and set it to ohms, some dmms have a beep feature on this setting, then put one probe on say the front driver speaker's + terminal and put the other probe on each bare wire behind the dash until it beeps or shows 0 resistance, then you know exactly where each wire is supposed to go. I used this method to bypass my factory amp so I could wire in a four channel and sub amp.
Funny even if you hook up a 4 ch amp and forget or don't bypass the factory amp first, your audio clarity and db will remain about the same with the separate 4 channel you tried to install as it did with just the factory amp! Doesn't really degrade the sound quality though which I thought was interesting.
You may not have to deal with this but just a tidbit I found out early on. Anyways hope this post helps, these are very simple audio systems so u shouldn't have any trouble at all.

 

[Spalmer26]

This may help! It's a diagram for a 93 Ranger but likely the same. The bare wire is either a ground or just for eliminating interference, but this diagram does show two grounds. If you have no diagram or anything to go by like I did at first, you can get a multimeter and test for continuity between the + and - of each speaker and their respective wires in the dash. That will at least take care of the speakers, then just use a meter to find the B+, ground, and ignition/accessory wires.
Take a multimeter and set it to ohms, some dmms have a beep feature on this setting, then put one probe on say the front driver speaker's + terminal and put the other probe on each bare wire behind the dash until it beeps or shows 0 resistance, then you know exactly where each wire is supposed to go. I used this method to bypass my factory amp so I could wire in a four channel and sub amp.
Funny even if you hook up a 4 ch amp and forget or don't bypass the factory amp first, your audio clarity and db will remain about the same with the separate 4 channel you tried to install as it did with just the factory amp! Doesn't really degrade the sound quality though which I thought was interesting.
You may not have to deal with this but just a tidbit I found out early on. Anyways hope this post helps, these are very simple audio systems so u shouldn't have any trouble at all.

View attachment 322202

Ok so the two ground do I hook them both up the the new deck or just one there is a soils black wire and other one with a stripe that’s chassi ground and I’m also guessing mine has a amplified I’m sitting here thinking if it is amplified do I take the factory amp out and unplug the harness to it or would I have to run new speaker wires

 

[94Sport5]

To see if in fact it IS a ground, test for continuity between it, and a known ground point or solid steel that's grounded to the frame. If it is a ground, tape the bundle back up for the most part and shrink wrap it to fix the insulation being cut back to see what that wire was, and when you figure out your wiring use the ground as you normally would. Some people would just tape it up and not use it and if you hear alternator whine or interference then see if you can make use of it to fix the issue. Edit: Someone else on this forum said they grounded the black chassis ground to the bare wire. This may work for you. Here is the link 93' Explorer radio wiring information & review of el-cheapo car radio.

 

[94Sport5]

Ok so the two ground do I hook them both up the the new deck or just one there is a soils black wire and other one with a stripe that’s chassi ground and I’m also guessing mine has a amplified I’m sitting here thinking if it is amplified do I take the factory amp out and unplug the harness to it or would I have to run new speaker wires

Click on the link in my last post and I think it will answer your question. And I didn't run new wires, I just unplugged the amp and spliced the wires that ran into it together. It took a little while since there seemed to be 20 wires in those couple bundles, but I got it working perfectly that way. Then you could REALLY tell I had the 4 channel amp hooked up, a kicker zx350.4. That's why I made the remark about bypassing it earlier, but again it was weird that I had 2 separate amps, 1 unknowingly, hooked up at the same time to all the speakers and it still sounded exactly as if I had never hooked up the kicker amp in the first place lol, that factory amp wasn't too bad though.. But hope this helps you figure it out!

 

[TDG]

On my 93 (with premium sound / JBL) that gray cable feeds 2 amplifiers located behind the passenger side trim panel in the cargo area.