Help, 94 XLT Caught on Fire

[OVERKILL700HP]

Last night I was driving doing about 40mph when I noticed
smoke coming from the passenger side wheel well. I then quickly pulled over
and noticed smoke coming from the wheel.
That smoke almost instantly turned into flames.
My friend that I was with quickly called the police on her cell and within minutes 2 patrol cars and 1 Firetruck was on the scene.
It was a small fire but still scared the crap out of me.
To make a long story short, with the wheel still being on, the fire looked like it was coming from the brake area.
I was towed home about 40 miles away.
Today I took off the wheel and all I saw was rusty parts everywhere.
I didn't see any brake fluid anywhere. Nothing was wet with brake fluid.
The brake line looked ok. I did notice that the backing plate ( the plate behind the rotor is so rusty that it's almost hollowed out).
The pads look on the thin side.
I'm new to the auto hub area. I have no experience with that part.
When I took off the wheel, the auto hub assembly came out with the wheel.
Is this normal?
Anyway, I really don't know what started the fire.
Does anyone have any ideas?
All help is greatly appreciated.
Btw, I'm going to take some pics in a few minutes.
Can anyone tell me how to post the pics?
Thanks ahead.

 

[MrShorty]

First thing I would look at is the brakes. They are the first thing I think of that can generate enough heat to start a fire.
Second thing I think of is seized wheel bearings.

It's normal for the outer auto hub assembly to come off with the wheel. You can put little metal clips on to hold it in place if you don't like having it come off like that, but not necessary.

 

[OVERKILL700HP]

First thing I would look at is the brakes. They are the first thing I think of that can generate enough heat to start a fire.
Second thing I think of is seized wheel bearings.

It's normal for the outer auto hub assembly to come off with the wheel. You can put little metal clips on to hold it in place if you don't like having it come off like that, but not necessary.

How would I know if the bearings are seized?

 

[F14CRAZY]

How would I know if the bearings are seized?

You know when the wheel does not turn easily and/or smoothly. If it turns hard and kind of grinds, it's seized.

 

[DeRocha]

If the wheel bearings freeze they often weld the race onto the spindle.
See posts 12 & 17 for pic of frozen race

The backing plate that is rusted is just a Splash shield and can be removed. I had tried to replace mine, but the parts dept at the dealer said it was not available and not required.

 

[OVERKILL700HP]

The bearings look fine but The caliper does looks pretty beat up and the piston looks damaged and rotted.
I went out and bought 2 lifetime warranty calipers and Lifetime pads from Autozone.
I'm having difficulty installing the inner pad. I have no idea how the hell it stays put. I have a Haynes manual and the Ford CD but I'm still lost with that damn inner pad. I already put the anti-rattle clip on the pad based on a pic I saw. But the pics are not clear how the inner pad installs.
Any advice on how that goes on?
Pics would be wonderful.
Note that I already did a search.
Thanks ahead.

 

[Brandon1993Sport]

You are cleaning the bearings and repacking them including a new grease seal right?
And getting the rotors turned?
These need to be done when you replace pads. Here's a link that shows how to do the bearings if you're not sure how to:
http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/Ui..._us/0900823d/80/0d/c3/86/0900823d800dc386.jsp

Here's a link for the pad installation:
http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/Ui..._us/0900823d/80/0e/31/38/0900823d800e3138.jsp
Make sure you put the shims in behind the pads when you install them. And make sure you grease the caliper slide pins with caliper grease liberally. I just took off my calipers the other day and the pins were rusted in place, preventing the outer pad from even making contact with the rotor. But above all, make sure the rotor gets turned and bearings repacked. It's also highly recommended to do both sides when doing brake work. Good luck

 

[OVERKILL700HP]

I finally was able to install that inner pad. What a cheesy design by Ford.
I feel Ford should have used Bolts instead of those caliper pins, which would enable the both pads to be clipped on the caliper.
Anyway, The rotors actually looked good. I didn't repack the bearings either.
I will do that next time I do the pads.
I now have another problem, I found a rusted out brake line thats seriously spraying brake fluid. But that leaking line had nothing to do with the fire
Thanks for all the advice guys.

 

[Brandon1993Sport]

The 2nd gen X's do have bolts instead of pins, but they can be more trouble than the pins. The bolts can back out and send the caliper around the wheel well tearing things up, not to mention losing the brakes on that tire.

 

[97BlackX5.0]

you probably had a stuck caliper... that was constantly holding the brakes on... this generates enough heat that it burns up your brake pads and will eventually start the brake oil and burn off the wheel bearing grease... was it pulling hard in one direction... I would at least take off the wheel bearings and see how they look... very black or grease that is lumpy or like oil is bad and should be replaced...

 

[Wheressinatra]

Same Kind of Problem

I have a problem very similiar but a little different. I got done driving today and noticed an enormous amount of smoke coming out of my rear passenger wheel well. It did not burst into flames, but was still a lot of smoke. Could this be something to do with my brakes even though they aren't discs, or is it something else. I had the car jacked up yesterday as I was replacing the starter, don't know if that has anything to do with it. Thanks for any help

 

[OVERKILL700HP]

you probably had a stuck caliper... that was constantly holding the brakes on... this generates enough heat that it burns up your brake pads and will eventually start the brake oil and burn off the wheel bearing grease... was it pulling hard in one direction... I would at least take off the wheel bearings and see how they look... very black or grease that is lumpy or like oil is bad and should be replaced...

It was pulling a good amount to the right ( passenger side) which is where the fire was.
I got a picture of the caliper which got a lil burnt or hot so if anyone wants the pic, just let me know.

 

[OVERKILL700HP]

I have a problem very similiar but a little different. I got done driving today and noticed an enormous amount of smoke coming out of my rear passenger wheel well. It did not burst into flames, but was still a lot of smoke. Could this be something to do with my brakes even though they aren't discs, or is it something else. I had the car jacked up yesterday as I was replacing the starter, don't know if that has anything to do with it. Thanks for any help[/QUOTE


I'm not positive on what is wrong but i would definitely check the brakes at the rear and see whats possibly going on. It can't hurt to check.

 

[97BlackX5.0]

if you have drum brakes in the rear and they are smoking there are a few things that could be wrong.... A... you could have snapped a spring and they are not releasing....jack up the truck put it in neutral and try to spin that tire..... B.... your wheel cylinder.... the thing that pushes the shoes out has a leak in it and the oil is smoking off of the hot brake parts.... these are not that expensive or hard to replace.... just be ready to take apart the shoes and replace them as they are soaked in oil.... C.... Your axle seal is leaking or the rear bearing is seized on that side.... most unlikely... but is easy to see ... get down and look behind the wheel... if there is wet look anywhere on the bottome of the backing plate you have an oil leak.....


To Overkill..... you had a stuck caliper causing the brakes to constantly stay engaged.... and create TREMENDOUS amounts of heat.... you should defineately check the wheel bearings on that side unless you have the bearing unit that cannot be opened to be sure you didnt cook all the grease out of it.... also if you quenched the fire with water... you will more than likely have a warped rotor now..... if you have a pulsating brake pedal after you get it all back together that rotor will need to be replaced...i find turning rotors to be a waste of time and money as they usually warp faster or wear faster after they are turned.... and as my own personal rule i always do the same thing to both sides of the truck..... the auto hub isnt hard to take apart but can be frustrating if you dont figure out the tricks.... first of all... get a clean towel or bowel and line up everything that comes out in order ... so that you know how everything goes back in..... secondly if you have auto hubs.....which i suspect you do... there is a little magnetic key that keeps the nut from backing off..... you will need a strong magnet or a magnetic screwdriver to get that out... .i remember the first time i did it i fooled around with it like 2 hours with picks before i did some research and found that it was magnetic....