Help! 96 5.0L Eddie Won't Start!!

[bonesy]

My Eddie and I have been battling for 6 months now!

The first time it wouldn't start was after an Ice Storm. I replaced the Battery (for a yellow top) and the Starter. Worked great!

5 months later, it all of a sudden wouldn't start again. But even weirder the speakers where producing a static sound even with keys out of the the ignition. Seemed if the car was alive. AAA came out and said the battery had a bad cell and didn't hold charge (had .5 amp leak). I could jump the car to start but when I was not able to restart it if I shut it off. So, I jumped the car and drove straight to Autozone. They put the battery on their tester and said that it was good, wouldn't replace. Pissed and confused, hook the bat back in the car started-worked-turned off-started-WORK! The problem seemed to go away.

July 3rd @ 11pm The car would not charge. Stuck in NJ on the way to VT. I stopped for a rest break and notice my windows were going up slowly, and then the dashboard light for the battery flashed, and then the car died. I got a jump (thinking it was the battery issue above), car turned back on an idled in the parking lot while I used the restroom. When to leave got a mile down the road and the Engine System Check chirped "Check charging system." THe next morning I put in a new alternator and had the Autopart store charge the battery while I worked. Completed the job, worked great! Although there was now sound from the belt.

This week, I decided to change the belt and the tension mechanism, idler pulleys, thermostat, and engine coolant while I was at it. I completed the job and when finished the car started up good and idle 4 times while I was letting the belt break-in and getting air removed from the Coolant System. Well I turned the car off to lock the house door so I could return the fan clutch set, came back and the car would not turn on!!! I hooked up the battery charger and it said the battery is producing 13V and Battery % is 95-100. It won't even start when I have it in the starting 75 AMP mode. Fuel Pump primes - Starter Solenoid clicks - but no turn over (this was the symptoms of the first issue but battery is good and starter!)

I am lost....please help!

 

[marragtop]

Check all your cable ends for corrosion. Cables can corrode from the inside out. Fairly common problem with the explorers.

 

[bonesy]

I swear this car has a ghost!

I replaced the battery cables/"the big 3" and even upgraded the gauge of all the wires. I also replaced the starter solenoid on the fender wall. The old one may have been good as it clicked when voltage was applied to the ignition location, but who knows if the contacts inside had worn.

After 3 ignition turns, the explorer came to life and has been working since.

However now there is another lovely electrical problem. I went to put an item in the car this evening and used my keyless entry (double click) as I also do. Instead of working normally as it did merely hours before, this time all the lock motors inside the doors were continually spinning and the locks never moved. I don't know my anatomy of the door locking mechanism, but I am assuming that none of the lock actuators were engage.

I am thinking there gots to be a short is some wire somewhere. Yes, looks like a needle in the haystack type problem. Would anyone have some suggestions where to start looking? Where would be the first place to find a short that is causing all this mess?

Oh, I thought I would mention that I took the negative lead of the battery to restart all the electronics. The first time was a quick removal then put back on. As soon as I put it back on the lock motors started going again. Thinking there was some type of cap in there, I took the negative off again waited 30 secs and put it back on. The lock motor were quick. However they did the same thing as soon as I tried to use the keyless or code pad. I could however you the key to physically unlock the door, even while these motor where running. This leads me to think there is some relay not getting the power needed.

Thanks for the help!

 

[robertoa1a]

Ah ha. An alarm issue. That wasn't my first guess. My alarm got crazy one time when I left my lights on it drained the battery. I disconnected the battery and reconnected it after recharging it. It has behaved normal since.

It seems like the alarm doesn't like being on low power and makes a last ditch attempt to save your vehicle. After that Its brain gets wacky and needs resetting.

 

[bonesy]

Good call. I took volt meter to the deep cycle battery and it had around 10-11 V versus a normal 13-14 V.

I have the battery on a trickle charger, so we'll see if a full battery helps.

As this may be a temporary fix, something caused the battery to drain while there were no lights on, keys in ignition, etc. I thinking about how I can I test AMP leakage while car is off, assuming I'll put the AMP meter inline between the + battery and the + cable. I'll do this and report back the amp drain. This may be a test of what I already know however, the battery is draining while off.

So brings back to problem, where are common areas for ground issues? Or for + leads to be worn and self ground? Probably the later than the former. I rechecked all the grounds for the Negative Batt Cable and they look good. Looked at all the positive battery cable areas, good connections, no frays causing a ground. So now I am stumped. I now there is probably MILES of positive 12V-Alway Hot wires, but maybe I can start my search at some of the more common areas for problems ....

Thanks for anything, I'm on my knees begging.

 

[robertoa1a]

Poor wiring on aftermarket gadgets. Towing electrical wiring.