HELP, Cant diagnose problem, Intermittent Starting

[bluepaint98]

I've had my 98 Explorer for about two years and haven't had any starting problems with it until lately. The Problem: It starts fine from a cold start, like a champ. Ill drive around for a while, running errands and stop some where, turn it off, only to come back out 10 mins later and wont start. It cranks but wont turn over. Almost sounds like its choking for a few seconds and dies but wont start for almost an hour, seemingly after it cools down. So far I've replaced the EEC relay, the fuel filter, spark plugs and wires not too long ago. I've done tons of research and just cant get to the bottom of this. It needs to be fixed because at this point my vehicle has become unreliable. Although it does start back up, luckily, its still very inconvenient.I also ran a fuel pressure test that read 33lbs with the key turned on, not started. And with it started, it read 40lbs. We have also checked the fuel reset switch up under the passenger side dash. There is also a pretty bad exhaust leak too. Not sure if that would have anything to do with it. I would be happy to answer any farther questions to help to GET ER' FIXED!! Thanks !!

 

[96eb96]

Sounds like a classic Idle air control valve issue. Will it start if you press the gas a bit?

 

[bluepaint98]

96eb96, it keeps it sputtering when the gas is depressed but just dies anyways. It will die whether you press accelerator or not.

 

[bluepaint98]

So should I replace the idle air control valve?

 

[swshawaii]

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140288

 

[Flash]

When it sputters is there any smoke coming out of the tailpipe?

I'm thinking a dripping fuel injector causing flooding on a hot start.

 

[bluepaint98]

Flash, never really looked for smoke. But there is a smell of gas and odd odor. And after it does finally start, it's a pretty rough initial acceleration. But than is ok.

 

[96eb96]

If the car starts with a bit of pedal usually the IAC isn't the issue. If it is an original IAC probably not a bad idea to clean or change. They do fail with that pattern though, after leaving the car cool off after a few hours they stick. Don't mean it is that though. I would say MAF but that don't usually give startup issues (can't hurt to disconnect it and try starting, there is a failsafe).


Flash could be right, Try leaving the fuel pressure gauge for an hour after you turn the key to run(but not start). If it drops alot you could have a leaky injector. There are leakdown specs just for this test.

Some fords have PCM issues that hold injectors open. I wouldn't go that route just yet.

Do you have the SOHC or OHV engine?

 

[bluepaint98]

I have OHC engine. I'm still really at a stand still. My pops and myself are going to replace iac valve. What is a MAF? Dad was wondering.

 

[bluepaint98]

Would it help at this point to buy a chilton?

 

[swshawaii]

Nowhere in this thread has the OP mentioned scanning for trouble codes. Before any more guessing
by changing expensive parts, scan for DTC's that may be stored in memory, check engine light or not.

2000StreetRod's Helpful thread list
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=263665

Ford OBD-II Trouble Codes
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2054355&postcount=2

 

[fritz24]

Dont replace anything unless you pinpoint exactly your problem or you'll end up replacing working parts coz of guessing without properly testing it. I got on my hand a service, pinpoint test and dtc diagnosis procedure from ford for 2nd gen to 4th gen.
If you got a scantool can you show the short term fuel trim and long term fuel trim while the car is idling and on operating temp. This we can narrow down your problem rather than guessing what could be the culprit. Remember the value of the LTFT+/-20. increase the rpm to 1500 check the value if it will drop or increase depending on the value. Then increase the rpm to 2500 again check the value. Report back whatever value you have.