dreamr
Explorer Addict
- Joined
- October 5, 2003
- Messages
- 3,619
- Reaction score
- 13
- City, State
- Lynnwood WA
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 99 XL / 4x4 / 4.0 ohv
So for over a year now I have had a constant debate going on in my head. I am very tired and want only to set my course for the trucks evolution. Now I turn to you all to help silence this beast of a question.
The question. How big to go? Now it should be more what i need than vanities sake. This is true of all areas. How far should I really go.
Check my elite registry for current progress.
I am primarily creating a good looking daily driver which can also get me into remote corners of the Cascades for hunting, fishing, camping, and hiking purposes. I really don't do much of any hardcore wheeling. I think I have only visited two ORV parks and both tame ones at that. Yet at the same time I have found myself in situations in the national forests that have made the ORV parks look simple. I would say that I drive about a thousand to fifteen hundred miles per year off pavement possibly a bit more, most of which are just gravel roads. I also do about 5 to 6 thousand in city miles and about 5 thousand freeway.
Performance:
I think I am about done in this area. The goal was just to wake up the sleeping 4.0. At least a little. Mods include 75mm MAF, BBK T-Body, K&N FIPK, SCT Flasher programmed by Apten.
Now I have had a lot of trouble with the flasher, so that is deffinately getting re programmed locally. But the question is. Should I follow through with plans of getting some head work done? And are electric fans trully worth the effort?
Handling:
I hate the way this thing wallows around corners! I plan on finishing the switch to poly bushings all around and am hoping to purchase the EE swaybar in the near future. Now for shocks. Should I go Rancho RSX, Edelbrock IAS, or save a buck with Gabriel VST? Is a 32" or 33" tire going to require a steering stabilizer?
Exterior:
No more dress up stuff. I mean armor. I currently have the idea of needing bumpers and sliders. The reasoning is I have nowhere to get a high lift on the truck, and I hate the big bulky angle killing stock bumpers. And that front airdam was made to eat rock and tire tread, it sure don't look good anymore!
For bumpers I aim for simple double tubes with the grill hoop (most common bumper you see) The questions comes in now. will they handle being used as jack points/ tow points. Well the answer is if designed properly, but got any guidance as to what is proper before I go find someone to fab them for me.
Lift:
I have wanted the 4" superlift forever, but it is so bloody expensive. 1600 Then the install, driveline, brake lines, etc.........
The idea was to run the 4" kit and Warrior shackles to clear 33" tires.
By the looks of my undercarriage particularly the gas tank I need much more clearance but where to go. I assume that I can clear 33 or at least 32 with 2"TT/Shackle/AAL and a 2 inch body lift. The body lift is much cheaper, and easier to deal with. I don't want to go over 2" cause the job gets much harder with the next inch. My concerns with body lift are that firstly I won't be getting much more clearance, only tire size. All that crap (frame and suspension) are going to be hanging out even further (ugly). Obviously If I go body lift I should do it before I get tube work so it can be fabbed accordingly.
Can I rehang my exhaust (tailpipe) higher?
For the real question:
Which should I go with 2" body and 2" suspension or the 4" inch suspension
kit.
Tires:
Where the heck can I put a 32" or 33" spare. Pretty sure it ain't going under neath as a 30 barely fit. Can't go roof rack because of the garage clearance. Does it go on the bumper or in the back under a false floor/tool box/speaker box that happens to fold out with the seats to be a level bed for camping that I haven't made yet?
Second question Can I run 33X12.5 and carry a 33x10.5 for a spare, or related to that? would 33X10.5 affect my stability much vs.the wider version if ran all around?
Lockers:
I am currently open diffed with 3.73 gears. This is probably the problem I run into the most!! Those damn open diffs really hinder my ability to go up things, over things, and through mogul like sections. I must have a selectable locker for street reasons. But the questions are do I lock both diffs, or just one? I will only be able to afford one at a time. So which will have the greatest benefit to my traction?
Secondly do you think my gears will be adequate with 32 or 33 tires the primary concerns being the use of overdrive and responsiveness.
Any opinions would be much appreciated. It gets really tiring debating with myself and an outside perspective often helps clear that up. I have hassled my family, friends, and co-workers. They only look at me funny and roll their eyes. Y'all at least understand my needs a little better
The question. How big to go? Now it should be more what i need than vanities sake. This is true of all areas. How far should I really go.
Check my elite registry for current progress.
I am primarily creating a good looking daily driver which can also get me into remote corners of the Cascades for hunting, fishing, camping, and hiking purposes. I really don't do much of any hardcore wheeling. I think I have only visited two ORV parks and both tame ones at that. Yet at the same time I have found myself in situations in the national forests that have made the ORV parks look simple. I would say that I drive about a thousand to fifteen hundred miles per year off pavement possibly a bit more, most of which are just gravel roads. I also do about 5 to 6 thousand in city miles and about 5 thousand freeway.
Performance:
I think I am about done in this area. The goal was just to wake up the sleeping 4.0. At least a little. Mods include 75mm MAF, BBK T-Body, K&N FIPK, SCT Flasher programmed by Apten.
Now I have had a lot of trouble with the flasher, so that is deffinately getting re programmed locally. But the question is. Should I follow through with plans of getting some head work done? And are electric fans trully worth the effort?
Handling:
I hate the way this thing wallows around corners! I plan on finishing the switch to poly bushings all around and am hoping to purchase the EE swaybar in the near future. Now for shocks. Should I go Rancho RSX, Edelbrock IAS, or save a buck with Gabriel VST? Is a 32" or 33" tire going to require a steering stabilizer?
Exterior:
No more dress up stuff. I mean armor. I currently have the idea of needing bumpers and sliders. The reasoning is I have nowhere to get a high lift on the truck, and I hate the big bulky angle killing stock bumpers. And that front airdam was made to eat rock and tire tread, it sure don't look good anymore!
For bumpers I aim for simple double tubes with the grill hoop (most common bumper you see) The questions comes in now. will they handle being used as jack points/ tow points. Well the answer is if designed properly, but got any guidance as to what is proper before I go find someone to fab them for me.
Lift:
I have wanted the 4" superlift forever, but it is so bloody expensive. 1600 Then the install, driveline, brake lines, etc.........
The idea was to run the 4" kit and Warrior shackles to clear 33" tires.
By the looks of my undercarriage particularly the gas tank I need much more clearance but where to go. I assume that I can clear 33 or at least 32 with 2"TT/Shackle/AAL and a 2 inch body lift. The body lift is much cheaper, and easier to deal with. I don't want to go over 2" cause the job gets much harder with the next inch. My concerns with body lift are that firstly I won't be getting much more clearance, only tire size. All that crap (frame and suspension) are going to be hanging out even further (ugly). Obviously If I go body lift I should do it before I get tube work so it can be fabbed accordingly.
Can I rehang my exhaust (tailpipe) higher?
For the real question:
Which should I go with 2" body and 2" suspension or the 4" inch suspension
kit.
Tires:
Where the heck can I put a 32" or 33" spare. Pretty sure it ain't going under neath as a 30 barely fit. Can't go roof rack because of the garage clearance. Does it go on the bumper or in the back under a false floor/tool box/speaker box that happens to fold out with the seats to be a level bed for camping that I haven't made yet?
Second question Can I run 33X12.5 and carry a 33x10.5 for a spare, or related to that? would 33X10.5 affect my stability much vs.the wider version if ran all around?
Lockers:
I am currently open diffed with 3.73 gears. This is probably the problem I run into the most!! Those damn open diffs really hinder my ability to go up things, over things, and through mogul like sections. I must have a selectable locker for street reasons. But the questions are do I lock both diffs, or just one? I will only be able to afford one at a time. So which will have the greatest benefit to my traction?
Secondly do you think my gears will be adequate with 32 or 33 tires the primary concerns being the use of overdrive and responsiveness.
Any opinions would be much appreciated. It gets really tiring debating with myself and an outside perspective often helps clear that up. I have hassled my family, friends, and co-workers. They only look at me funny and roll their eyes. Y'all at least understand my needs a little better
. This is what I might do myself but i'll probably also truss the axle and put a set of ctm's in there...granted though it will probably be more expensive than the superlift kit.
Oh yeah as far as gears, I have stock 3.73's and since the new tires it's a freaking DOG, so slow, definately gonna have to regear.
I assume that you do not have a hitch and did some bending of the metal plate to the rear of the spare spot. Any details? Also how is the exhaust pipe in relation to the tire?
if your going with just 33's I wouldn't worry about the 4" suspension lift, I'm only going with this for 35's, so you can avoid the high cost of the suspension lift if your just looking to get 33's.
