HELP PLEASE FOR SOA

[2001ExpSport]

The axel isn't wide enough to do that.

 

[JoshC]

Jason--i actually thought about that because that is how the rangers are done, but i got to looking when i was putting it back on and i don't think it would work because the caliper would be in the way. I wonder how that does work for the rangers, i might have to check that out again and get back with you.

Happy trails!!

 

[jasonb]

2001expsport.. how do they do that on the ranger? is it on the inside of the frame or something? i've never seen the underside of a ranger, just thought they did the soa that way.

 

[JoshC]

Jason, they do have the spring on the outside of the frame, but i'm not sure of all the details. I'll have to find on in a parking lot on day this week and take a good look at it so i will know myself.

Happy trails!!

 

[2001ExpSport]

My Ranger had them on the outside, but the Rangers rear frame rail sections are closer together than the Explorers.

All this work is going to be in vein. Swapping the axel under the springs and then bringing it back to stock hieght is going to put the leaf pack just about an inch below the bump stops. So much for up travel. I suggest you 86 this whole idea of an SOA without lift.

 

[Kirby N.]

I am doing the same thing you are doing on my 93. I have a 3" in the front. I will soon have 4". In the rear I have an add-leaf and shackles.
1st of all your addleaf is not lifting the thing because it is in the wrong spot. You must put it on top of the overload spring (the flat one) or else the overload spring is too stiff and keeps the add-leaf from doing anything.
2nd when you cut down the shackles it messes up your pinion angle--- your diff points down.
3rd those goofy shackles wont let the leaf expand (eye to eye) and thus keep it from flexing.

If you put the stock shackles on, take out the addleaf you should loose 3-4" of lift.
do your spring over and gain 5" of lift (your welded on perches should be fine where they are).
If it is too tall take out the overload-- beware axle wrap.

What was your plan with the Shocks??

When I can get close to a welder I am taking out my shakels and add-leaf and doing a spring over. Not only do you have better clearance but better flex too because the axle has a better mechanical advantage on the springs. The Main reason I am doing this though is because the add-leaf makes the ride so freaking harsh, the soa will return it to stock.

 

[JoshC]

Hey Kirby, thanks for the info.

I guess i thought the ad-a-leaf was in the right place, could you take a picture and show me yours, i guess i can't figure it out!

Yeah i know about the expanding of the short shackles, there is none! Rode like a brick, so i had some others made yesterday and i put them on a while ago.

I see what you are saying about the stock shackles and removal of the ad-a-leaf, i'm anxious to see how yours turns out. How soon are you going to do this. I was going to put my stock shackles back on but i couldn't find them anywhere, i'll have to dig harder cause i'd like to know where they are!

I was going to mount my shocks on the bottom swaybar mount hole. I took it off cause it wasn't doing me anything so i had those holes just sitting there. That is where Lizardtrac put his and i've heard some others say that is where they mount theirs.

Happy trails!!

 

[swak6287]

welding.... is there anyway one can do it at home with some stuff that u can buy in the shop? how difficult is it to weld the perches on?

 

[Harry5150]

Not too difficult to weld. I borrowed a mig welder and did the welding in a few minutes. Prep time was a different story.

You just have to be careful not to overheat the axle tubes and bend them. I wrapped them with wet rags near the welding spots to draw off the heat.

A little paint wouldn't help either as you can see.

Dead Link Removed

 

[JoshC]

Harry, how much lift did it give you? Looks like a good job, i love your Explorer too.

Happy trails!!

 

[Harry5150]

Thanks.

I'm guessing 4.5 to 5+ inches of lift in the rear. I need a bone stock Sport to take measurements from to compare with what I have now. The axle tube is 3.25", I believe and the height of the pertch is near 1/2 an inch or so, & the leaf thickness is around another 1/2". I also have the warrior shackles too.

 

[jasonb]

wow harry, you kept the monoleaf in there too! and looks like you ditched all the blocks that were with it. wouldn't it have only given you 3.25" + the new perch thickness, 3/8"? plus the bottom perch thickness 3/8"? so about 4" total since you left out all the little blocks? am i missing something? and where did you get that perch? looks like it fits perfectly... nice weld too... great job!

matt... thanks for the ranger info. i didn't know the frame rails were closer together. that makes a lot of sense!

 

[Harry5150]

Thanks Jason.

I kept the mono-leaf so it wouldn't be too bouncy. The little blocks were just to keep the shock length the same as the 4X or the 4 doors with the multi-leaf pack. If I find some way of getting the front higher, I may put the blocks in as spacer between the perch and the leaf.

I have the Warrior extended shackle too so that's another 1 - 1.5 inches or so.

I've got the perches from Currie Enterpriese (714 528-6957) out of Anaheim, CA. They were $15.95 (CE-7000B: Spring Pads - 3.25" X 2.5") a pair. You could probably find something simmilar out your way.
http://www.currieenterprises.com

If you do decide to do some welding, one suggestion is that you may concider tilting the perches to straighten the driveline. Mine is not too bad just sitting there but I think is pretty sharp at full droop. I'm going to eventually put some shims to give the axle a little tilt.

Also, take all the pressure off the axle (wheels off the ground) to make sure you don't bend the end of the axle tubes when welding.

 

[jasonb]

tilt them back a bit? so the rear of the perch is slightly lower?
thanks for info on the perches. i'll see what i can find around here.
did you have to get new brake lines? or did you just reroute them?

thanks for the info!

 

[Harry5150]

I believe the other way. The rear of the perch should be higher so it would make the pinion flange tilt upward.

I disconnected the brake line bracket on the axle to give it more play. With the lift there's only 2" of flex in the line (the reason I haven't been wheeling). I'm looking to get an extened stainless steel brake line soon.

Here's a flash diagram I made to help explain.

Dead Link Removed

 

[jasonb]

hehe.. thanks for the diagram.. and yes that makes sense. i drew it out this morning too and realized i was wrong before.
by doing that, will it cause anything else to be unaligned afterward? i only wish that rcd kit would hurry up (like i can afford it right now) so i could get this all underway.

 

[swak6287]

how do we know howmuch angle to go with?

 

[soupbone]

Im gonna get the superlift SOA block / shock mounts kit. But get them welded on so they wont shift or move. I like the shock mounts better than putting the shocks in the sway bar holes. plus all the angles have been calculated by SL.

a pic of some dudes soa. forgot his name......

 

[JoshC]

soupbone--did it give you the same amount of lift also?? Are those tires the same as a 31"? Looks good!

Happy trails!!

 

[soupbone]

its somebody elses 1994 on 33s or 35s. the superlift kit gives 5.5". It has shock mounts and extended sway bar links.