Help Please, rear differential problem??? | Ford Explorer Forums

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Help Please, rear differential problem???

LAWDOGKMS

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Hey Ford Experts….please help me out..

This couldn’t happen at a worse time!

We just moved to a new town, and are still paying the mortgage on our house that hasn’t sold yet, and paying rent too..

My wife hasn’t found a job yet, and has to have transportation to job interviews, while I'm at work with out other vehicle 45 miles away...

Sob story over....

Anyway, to get to the point:

Last night, I drove my wife (in her 97 Explorer, 5.0, 94K miles) to the movies about 50 miles away..

I only drive it to church on Sundays when I go with the family, and she's the main driver of it, so I’m not really in tune with it...but.....

I thought I noticed a whining sound from the rear axle area last night at highway speeds, and my wife commented that she thought she heard it too..

I got in the back seat, and let her drive, and was pretty sure I heard something that didn't sound right...

It was midnight when we got in, and about 15 degrees, so I left it alone last night..

Today, when I pulled in the driveway from work, I saw the new oil spots all over the driveway, and got under the Explorer for a closer look..

There is oil all over the rear differential…I really don’t know what I’m looking at, having no experience with transmission at all..

Nor do I know exactly where it is coming from..

SEE PHOTOS..

What should I do?

Can I fix this myself?

How much is this going to cost me?

Ford Mechanic?

Local Mechanic?

Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated...as my wife needs transportation next week...

Kevlar
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Not a big deal, calm down ;)

Looks like the seal just broke. So time for a fluid change and a reinstall and seal of the diff cover. It's easy to do yourself if you want to. If not it should be under $100 (though the cost of the fluid may bring it somewhat over).

It could be a leak at the end(s) of an axletube, but it looks more like the diff seal for me.

Good luck!
 






i agree, i just had the same problem....replaced with a new seal, high temp silicone on both sides of it, put in new diffy fluid....should be 75w140 and no problems since.
 






Thank you all so much for the replies...

I feel better now...

Does anyone know of a source for the directions, or instructions to do this?

On line?
 






Looks like the rear pinion seal to me. My diff cover gasket has been leaking for a little while now and there is no oil whatsoever forward of the cover.
If I'm right, its a bit of a job to replace the pinion seal because of special tools.
 






It's probably a diffy cover seal. My neighbor who's a service dept. manager for a local Ford dealership told me that they get alot of late 97 early 98 with bad rear differential seals. I've had to replace mine last year, I was lucky my differential was practically empty before I noticed. It was giving me a bad vibration & humming noise and I didn't notice till I got under it to change my diff's gear oil.
 






pinion seal

I dont think its the cover seal, I do think its the pinion seal as CheckedOut said.

The pinion seal is a bit more work

Special tools need would be an INCH/lb torque wrench, seal puller, and somehting to hole the pinion flange- A homemade plate, or bar with a couple of holes will work.
You need to reset the pinion preload.
The FSM has the procedure, I dont think the aftermarket manuals do, but I dont have one handy so dont know.

I would check the fill on the axle before you drive too much more- looks like a decent amount of fluid is on the axle, but if you dont hav ethe time money nowe to replace it, you can check the fluid every couple of days get an idea of how fast its leaking. Just keep on top of the fluid level- PITA since you have to get up and behind the axle to check it.

Good Luck
 






Here are the instructions:

Companion Flange and Pinion Oil Seal Removal

Replacement of the pinion seal involves removal and installation of only the drive pinion nut and the rear axle companion flange.

1. CAUTION: This operation disturbs the rear bearing cone and roller preload, and this preload must be carefully reset when assembling.

Raise the vehicle and install safety stands. Remove the wheel covers (if equipped), rear wheels and brake drums (1126) to prevent brake drag during differential pinion bearing preload adjustment.

2. Mark the driveshaft axle end flange and the rear axle companion flange to ensure proper position of the driveshaft during assembly. On 4x2 vehicles, disconnect the driveshaft from the rear axle companion flange. Remove the driveshaft from the extension housing (7A039). Install an oil seal replacer tool in the extension housing to prevent oil leakage.

On 4x4 vehicles, mark the driveshaft in relation to the flange on the transfer case (7A195) and the flange on the rear axle (4001). Remove bolts securing driveshaft to transfer case flange. Remove bolts securing driveshaft to axle flange and remove.

3. Install a pound-inch torque wrench on the pinion nut. Record the torque required to maintain rotation of the drive pinion shaft through several revolutions.

4. While holding the rear axle companion flange with Companion Flange Holding Tool T78P-4851-A, remove the pinion nut.

5. Clean the area around the pinion seal. Place a drain pan under the pinion seal, or raise the front of the vehicle higher than the rear.

Mark the rear axle companion flange in relation to drive pinion shaft so flange can be reinstalled in the same position.

6. Using Differential Side Bearing Puller T77F-4220-B1, remove the rear axle companion flange.

7. CAUTION: Do not damage axle housing while removing pinion seal.

Pry up on metal flange of pinion seal. Install gripping pliers and strike with hammer until pinion seal is removed.
 






Gear oil is so thick that when it warms up, it 'creeps' all over making the leak look worse than it really is. Based on the pictures you posted, it could be either seal or both. Regardless of what you decide to do (fix it yourself or have the dealer do it), I'd clean the diff by using Simple Green or Brake-Clean. Take it for a ride to get the diff warm (20 minutes or so) and then crawl under there and have a look. Fresh oil on the diff will indicate where the leak is. You might want to put something on the ground, like a piece of old carpet to keep your driveway from getting stained until it's fixed. If you decide to do it yourself, it's not hard, just messy, especially that big gasket on the back side. checkedout provided good instructions for the driveshaft side.

Good Luck - Dave.
 






If you decide to do it yourself I'll post the installation instructions with the torque requirements.
 






checkedout, please go ahead and post the install instructions. I have a leaking pinion seal that I'm looking to replace so, this will be helpful to me too. Thanks!
 






these are from a 96 manual but I think they are the same

4. CAUTION: Installation without the proper tool may result in early pinion seal failure. If pinion seal becomes ****ed during installation, remove it and install a new one.

Clean the pinion seal seat surface. Install the pinion seal in the front bearing cone and roller using Pinion Seal Replacer T83T-4676-A. Coat the lips of the seal with Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B

Rear Axle Companion Flange Installation

1. Apply a small amount of lubricant to the rear axle universal joint flange shaft splines. Align the mark on the rear axle companion flange with the mark on the drive pinion shaft. Install the rear axle companion flange using Companion Flange Replacer TOOL-4858-E or equivalent.

2. Install a new pinion nut on the pinion stem.

3. Note: If a new rear axle companion flange is being installed, disregard the scribe mark on the drive pinion shaft.

Note: The rear axle companion flange must never be hammered on or installed with power tools.

Using Companion Flange Holding Tool T78P-4851-A tighten the pinion nut, rotating the drive pinion occasionally to make sure proper pinion bearings are seated properly. Take frequent pinion bearing torque preload readings until the original recorded preload reading is obtained.

4. If the original recorded preload is lower than specification (used bearings 0.9-1.5 N-m [8-14 lb-in]; new bearings 1.8-3.3 N-m [16-29 lb-in]) tighten to specification. If the preload is higher than specification, tighten to original reading as recorded.

Under no circumstances should the pinion nut be backed off to reduce preload. If reduced preload is required, a new collapsible spacer and pinion nut must be installed.

4. Install the driveshaft in the extension housing. Align the scribe marks on the flange and driveshaft and connect the driveshaft at the rear axle companion flange. Tighten attaching bolts and nuts to companion 11-20 N-m (8-15 lb-ft) for half round rear axle companion flange and 95-128 N-m (70-95 lb-ft) for circular rear axle companion flange.

5. Install the brake drums (1126).

6. Install the wheels and tires. Tighten the wheel lugnuts to specification. Install the wheel covers.
 






You may want to add more fluid to it before the test drive. The fill port is on the fron of the diff, driver's side, next to the driveshaft. Removal iswith a std 3/8" socket extension.
 






Resolution:

LAWDOG: If you're still around, what wound up being the problem? The diff seal or pinion seal? Just today after a 4 hour drive I had the exact same oil pattern on my '99 EB.

Any one else care to comment on a similar situation they've had?

Thanks!
 






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