Help to find an E-Locker for my IFS Dana 35 please

[CDW6212R]

I put the Torsen in the front of XLT AWD 5.0 and is great in snow. Does make some whine noise when turning far to the left or right.

Thanks, I'm still going to do it. I'm hunting another set of snow tires and wheels, who's got 2 or 4 98 Mustang GT wheels?

 

[Devan]

Thanks, I'm still going to do it. I'm hunting another set of snow tires and wheels, who's got 2 or 4 98 Mustang GT wheels?

If, i shouldn't say if, someday When i decide to do a suspension lift in my truck and go coilovers in the front ill prolly do a 1 or 2 inch body lift as well but i want these wheels.View media item 53072 i think they come in either 20s or 22s i forget id have to check the fordparts website or pts but im too lazy right now lmao. but these rims come on the explorers and they are pretty rare to be seen on the explorers however when it comes to the newest sport tracs theyre decently popular and they are pretty much standard on the sport trac adrenalins. I have the 17" stockers.


TOTTALY off topic but Speaking of that 06 to 10 explorer pic i wonder if it would be easier to fit the 4.6 3valve motor in the 01 to 03 sports then a 4.6 2 valve motor. however it's got that stupid electronic throttle body which I can't stand tuning and the PCM/TCMS have too much control over it especially on the newer cars I would definitely want to try and find a way to ditch the ETB and keep the original instrument cluster as well. I would probably try to get an aftermarket ECU and make it work in conjunction with the stock PCM unless the aftermarket ECU could fully interface with the transmission as well as the engine. I haven't done much research on aftermarket ecu's but I will need one for my Cobra soon enough when I run compound boost. However like I've said a billion times though the 5.0 is definitely the way to go 4 motor swaps in the Explorer Sports espicially if u wanna keep the 4wd like i do. The only downside for me on that front would be changing the PCM I still want my truck to have a vin matching pcm to be able to pass inspection but I think I'm pretty confident that I can rewrite the V6 PCM to run the 5.0 motor

 

[Devan]

If you have 250hp and I gather it's positive displacement boost, you'd do well to go down in gear ratio, the 3.55:1 wouldn't be too much. As power goes up, the gearing need is less, the fastest cars have less gear.

When I do a 306 build for my 99 work truck, it's already a 4.10:1 4WD truck now. I'll build the 4R70W with close ratios(the AODE planetary set of parts). That moves 1st/2nd both closer to 3rd/4th, which don't change. The difference is similar to two gear steps, say a 3.27 versus 3.73, so with 4.10's the truck will be the same as a 3.55 truck in 1st and 2nd, and 4.10 in 3rd and 4th. That would be poor for a stock 302, but mine will probably hit 250-275hp, which should be fine.

Currently i am running the positive displacement m90 with the oval inlet, id like to build a motor and thro a ported m112 on it but i dont think i can justify the amount of money to build a motor for the interference 4.0 especially since rods are pretty hard to come by, they are obtainable but like everything else for a built 4.0 extremely expensive and it might just be a better idea and a better money venture to start building a 5.0 and throw my ported m112 on that instead. Plus the older 5.0s are so much easier to work on compared to the 4.0s or the 4.6s. The only thing i realy forsee having to contract somebody to do something would be to balance the rotating assembly or machine the deck or some port work which i could prolly do the portwork myself.

Jees im really sorry to get off topic and write another dumb motor story.
CDW you said "When I do a 306 build for my 99 work truck" can i conclude thats a stroked or bored 302? And what your plannin to do with the 4R70W sounds like it could be a good idea. You wouldnt want to try a 4R75W? I couldn't find much about the difference between the 4R70W and the 4R75W on the Ford pts website but according to Wiki "In 2003 Ford revised the 4R70W transmission with a stronger ring gear that had 24 lugs, as opposed to 6, for the output shaft sensor (OSS) to read off of, a new torque converter, a revised front pump assembly, and a vehicle speed sensor (VSS) that compliments the OSS to improve shift quality and efficiency. These improvements allowed the 4R75W to handle more power while being more efficient and economical. While not used on all 2003 model year vehicles, the 4R75W/E transmissions eventually replaced the 4R70W/E." I'm sure you already know you want nothing to do with the E model Transmissions as they are for dumbass electronic throttle body

 

[CDW6212R]

The 4R70W is strong enough for any engine, unlike the V6 and 5R transmissions. The subtle changes for the 4R75W are minor upgrades, not really power improvements. The better speed sensor outputs is helpful for the newer PCM's, but not necessary for most other needs. I am considering hard, using a COP Mustang PCM to run the engine, to be faster and easier to do with boost. I haven't looked into what input differences they could have.

The 306 I'm planning will be a .030 over 302, with better heads, compression, and run regular gas still. I have the heads and rods already, I never found a good priced TW170 head, so it'll be a knock off GT40X head, mildly ported. Stock power is 200rwhp if it's lucky, so I'm aiming for 250-275, the AWD parts likely keeping it down closer to 250.

 

[CDW6212R]

... i think they come in either 20s or 22s i forget id have to check the fordparts website or pts but im too lazy right now lmao. but these rims come on the explorers and they are pretty rare to be seen on the explorers however when it comes to the newest sport tracs theyre decently popular and they are pretty much standard on the sport trac adrenalins. I have the 17" stockers.

...

Do you have to have 20" wheels, have you seen the 96-98 Mustang GT wheels, the five split spoke type? They have an offset(30mm) that is workable with the 2nd gen trucks, while the later Fords are offset much more(44mm etc). I have one set of these to put on my old Ranchero.

 

[gmanpaint]

For you guys that installed the front Torsen, can you provide some Links for purchase, part numbers, pricing, install, upgrades, etc...?

I'm thinking of swapping out my Lock rite for the LSD. Did a quick search for one, and came up empty. My google foo is weak this morning. lol

 

[CDW6212R]

For you guys that installed the front Torsen, can you provide some Links for purchase, part numbers, pricing, install, upgrades, etc...?

I'm thinking of swapping out my Lock rite for the LSD. Did a quick search for one, and came up empty. My google foo is weak this morning. lol

Here's a link to it on the Torsen site. It took me a while on here to find any old information, part numbers are here in a couple of threads that I didn't find.
Torsen® Traction

975420-0207B is their part number for the D35 Torsen. They want $525 now for it, I think the shipping was under $25 for them last year.

I haven't installed mine yet of course, I'm about to take apart my bad D35 and see how it is to rebuild one. Then I'll do my 4.10 diff, with the Torsen.

 

[gmanpaint]

Thanks Don! I honestly couldn't find that. lol

They only have 6 left. Wonder if they stopped making them? That will be a bummer if so, as It will be a while before I am ready for purchase.

The D35 carrier is easy to assemble parts wise, it's just setting backlash and crush sleeve that is the hard part. I have a solid spacer instead of the crush sleeve in the 8.8, now I'm wondering if that's alright to do in the D35. If so, it makes this job much easier.

 

[CDW6212R]

I think you'll be okay for a while to wait. When I bought my pair they had just made about 25, that was the Fall of 2017. The first one I got was with 21 left, I got the other one a couple months later. It's a small diff as you know, and heavier than the stock one. It looks well very made, I was impressed with the 8.8 version when I got it back in 2004, that was very heavy, the stock 8.8 feels 20lbs lighter.

 

[Devan]

Well the torsen has helical gears if im not mistaken so it prolly wouldnt be anything like rebuilding a ring gear diff. But i would really like to get a torsen for the front end as well and rebuild my front diff. My 01 2dr Sport didnt have a Rear LSD axle from the factory. I got one from a junkyard sport trac with low mileage and i took the whole rear axle assembly and a little more down to bare metal and painted it up real nice with some heavy duty black paint. And then I put on that same kind of diff cover that Ford Racing has with the two differential bearing cap strengtheners but the diff cover didn't have the Ford Racing engraving on it but I ended up grinding the logo out of it anyway to Flat metal so I could paint the diff cover up to match the rest of the rear axle assembly anyway. But I would really like to get an electronic Locker for the rear, I really wish they made one for the front as well.

 

[CDW6212R]

Thanks Don! I honestly couldn't find that. lol

They only have 6 left. Wonder if they stopped making them? That will be a bummer if so, as It will be a while before I am ready for purchase.

The D35 carrier is easy to assemble parts wise, it's just setting backlash and crush sleeve that is the hard part. I have a solid spacer instead of the crush sleeve in the 8.8, now I'm wondering if that's alright to do in the D35. If so, it makes this job much easier.

I bought the D35 rebuild parts last month, two different brands/kits, and a blind hole bearing puller. I think the small bearing separator is the main tool I need still. I got an extra crush sleeve from Ford, but didn't run across any D35 rebuild posts to suggest anything about a solid sleeve to use.

I was just researching the best bearings etc, and that was disappointing. The kits are all basically vague brand described, most a mixture of KOYO etc, some unknown until bought Timken etc. The front is less stressed though, I won't hurt them.

In off roading, you will need the best bearings for sure. If you have any problems with bearings, the Motorcraft might be a best choice next time. I think those would run over $150, mainly because they cannot be bought as a kit. My parts guy suggested the price range of $150-$175, so I went hunting. The kits I found were in the $80-$120 range.

 

[gmanpaint]

Yeah, need to be careful on rebuild kits for sure. With diff parts, I try to only use parts made in the US. Motorcraft is a crap shoot now, as they now have parts manufactured in China. The quality control is supposed to be higher there for Ford, but yeah.... Doesn't mean squat to me.

I have some time to research more, and if I find anything out (good or bad) about the solid spacer, I will update this.

 

[boominXplorer]

I love my front Torsen my my ranger. You wouldn't know it's there until your in 4wd. It's near like driving a 4x4 locked front and rear though. With my rear grizzly locker I have to keep it in 2wd until I NEED 4wd to be able to steer without the fear of snapping the rack.

 

[gmanpaint]

I love my front Torsen my my ranger. You wouldn't know it's there until your in 4wd. It's near like driving a 4x4 locked front and rear though. With my rear grizzly locker I have to keep it in 2wd until I NEED 4wd to be able to steer without the fear of snapping the rack.

Time for an Atlas!! 2wd or 4wd low range. Oh, and 2wd front digs too!

I have blown 2 racks so far, but both times, only in 2wd. lol

I want the Torsen so I can use 4wd on the road, and to ease my worry of breaking CV's. I'm like you and only use 4wd when needed with the auto locker. I will adjust to not having full lock up in the front. Got to pick my battles here. lol