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Help! truck wont start. video link.

92expl0der

Member
Joined
April 21, 2008
Messages
36
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City, State
Houston, Texas
Year, Model & Trim Level
'92 XLT
Ok so I have been driving my truck for the last 3 days for the first time since i got it. I noticed that it has been starting slow but I figured it was the battery. anyway drove the truck today and turned it off at my house. got back in it a few minutes later and it wont turn over. im thinking its my battery cables, since the old ones were cut before i got the truck and they are kinda spliced together. any help is appreciated. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gUUt9_XWp_E
 



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...You can start a fire or fry your computer/electronics with spliced cables...You can not trust spliced cables for recharging your battery either..You can get a set from autozone for $37 dollars or a good replacement set from napa for under $70...
 






Try el jump el starto with another car-ooooo -- maybe the battery is dead. If after 15 mins of juicing from another car still leads to the same thing, then try rolling the vehicle a foot or so just in case the starter isnt lining up. If still no go, then check the starter's cable and battery cable. If thats still a no go, then gently tap the starter with something like a rubber mallet. If thats still a no go, then declare jihad on your Explorer and call it an infidel!! You can also yell "die devil bird, die!" -- or as the french say "meurent l'oiseau de diable, meurent!"
 






so does anyone have an idea of what it may be? i think im going to try getting new cables and hitting the starter with a rubber mallet. hopefully that works, i really dont want to buy a new starter.
 






...Cheap things to try would be check the voltage at your battery with it off, and with it running...this will help to know that your vehicle is charging properly...Then, pull the battery and have it tested for free...Sometimes the batteries get week and go bad...

...If you have an autozone by you(other auto parts houses also do this), they can check these items but remember to pull the battery for a good test on it...If those check out and before you pay for new cables, you could pull the starter and have them test that for free also...;)

..Let us know how this checks out...:D
 






Good news: battery tested good.

Bad news: It's something bigger than the battery.



I suspect a bad starter or bad battery cables.
Electrical work is beyond my skill level haha I am taking the truck to a shop close to me sometime this week, I'll let you all know that the diagnosis is.
 






...pulling the starter to have it tested for free and/or swapping cables happen to be very easy chores...:dunno:
 






If you have a voltmeter or multimeter that can help. If you don't have one, get a ride to the store and spend $10 on a cheap one. You might find more uses for it in the future.

Put the positive lead of the meter at the positive battery terminal and the negative lead at the big post of the starter while someone else turns the key. A reading of more than 0.5V indicated a bad connection or bad cable.

Put the positive lead of the meter at the body of the starter and the negative lead at the negative terminal of the battery while someone else turns the key. A reading of more than 0.5V indicated a bad connection or bad cable.

If that checks out okay, a current draw test is in order. Start with a pretend current draw test: Try holding the key in the Start position for about 20 seconds. If you see smoke or flames, the starter is bad. Extinguish any flames as needed.

A proper current draw test requires a huge ammeter or a meter with an inductive pickup, so maybe you want to skip that for now as you might need a tow to the local parts store or repair shop for this.

Since we've already determined that the battery connections are good, and you had the battery tested and it showed good and charged, it's either a bad starter or your engine refuses to turn over (seized or hydrolocked engine or trans problem or belt driven component problem). If it were any of those except for the starter it wouldn't have been a slowly developing problem. Replace the starter.
 






my neighbor thinks it could me an oil issue, since when i try to turn over the engine the "check oil" light comes on. Perhaps there is too much or too little oil, is there some kind of sensor that prevents the vehicle from starting if there is an issue with oil? kind of like a fail safe thing?
 






Check your lights.

Turn on your headlights. If they are good and bright you battery is OK. While the lights are on try cranking it. If the lights go real dim, either the battery has a defect in it or your starter has gone off the deep end. If your lights stay bright, either there is open circuit at your starter solenoid, bad starter cable, or an open circuit in your starter. Have someone hold the key to the start position and crawl under it and beat the starter with a BFH. Usually your starter is wore out and a little help from a BFH will get it going and tell you to yank the starter.

Word of the wise, DO NOT buy a Valuecrap starter at Autozone. Spend 10 bucks more and get the Duralast. All Valuecrap parts at Autozone are just that--Crap!

Oldman,
92 Sport
93 Sport
 






btw ...not that im trying to bad mouth autozone stuff but ,whenever i need a pump or starter or alternator i allways goto napa .they have much better quality stuff than the other stores.you may end up paying slightlly more but i think it's worth it to have a good part under the hood. :salute:
 






...Autozone is not the best place to get parts...But, you can get a lot of stuff checked for free...
 






my neighbor thinks it could me an oil issue, since when i try to turn over the engine the "check oil" light comes on. Perhaps there is too much or too little oil, is there some kind of sensor that prevents the vehicle from starting if there is an issue with oil? kind of like a fail safe thing?

No, that's actually quite normal. The `check oil` light is on due to low (or zero, really) oil pressure. Once you get the engine started and running at normal idle RPM you will achieve normal oil pressure and that light will turn off.
 






A lot of your 'warning' lights come on @ time of start-up....more like a POST (Power on Self Test) message than anything....confiming that the bulbs work, and will illuminate when needed.

DO NOT hit your starter with a hammer!

They are a PMGR (Permanent Magnet, Gear Reduction) Starter...They are nothing like the old small block chevy starter with a solenoid on the starter. The theory behind hitting it with a hammer, was to free up the solenoid plunger if it was seized due to heat generated from the exhaust.

Fords have their starter solenoid mounted on the fender near the battery. NOT on the starter.

Replace your starter. Quit guessing.

Ryan
 






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