PLEASE HELP! Truck won't start

[slenser]

I can't post in the 911 section.

Last night, the explorer almost didn't start at church. Did some clicking and then finally grunted to a start. When we got home, I tried to start it and it turned over very slowly and then nothing. I put the charger on last night and still won't start this morning. It has 13.4V at the battery. I tried tapping the starter, but that didn't work. There is a very loud click somewhere in the passenger side once and then nothing. I'm going to check the voltage during cranking.

Thanks for any help everyone!

Sam

Edit:

I just had my son try cranking it. It doesn't seem to drop at all. It is now at a constant 12.6V and drops to 12.2 when the key is turned to on. All I get is that loud single pop/clunk/whatever it is, when he tried to crank it. It's very close to the battery.

To top it off, last night the garage door didn't close all the way, so my son jumped on it. Now it's broke too.

 

[MrShorty]

Are the connections/cables between the battery and the starter good? This sounds something similar to what my BII would do when it didn't have a good connection at the battery post.

 

[410Fortune]

have you tried a jump start?

Have you tried jumping the fender mounted starter solenoid?

Check for 12V+ at the starter, then check for 12V+ atthe starter signal wire with the key cranked.

 

[Positive Vibes]

Are the connections/cables between the battery and the starter good? This sounds something similar to what my BII would do when it didn't have a good connection at the battery post.

I was thinking the same thing. Check the positive and negative cables from the battery to ground and the starter. My starter solinoid had come loose from the starter and I bought a used one from the pick and pull.

 

[slenser]

Well, the positive cable is only a couple of months old.

The battery is fine. I had it tested at the parts store. He also recomended jumping the starter relay to see if it was that. That is where I believe the loud popping noise is coming from. Everyone is gone now, so I can't check any cranking voltages until later today.

I have already checked the voltage on the relay and it read the same as the battery terminal. But I haven't checked it being cranked.

I cleaned up the ground connections near the battery and relay last night to make sure I had a good ground there. So far they have only shown about a 2-3 ohm drop. Shouldn't be enough to cause this kind of problem.

Off to reinstall the battery and test the relay!

Thanks for all the sugestions!!!

 

[slenser]

Ok, tested the relay and all I get is clicking of the solenoid. Much quieter than if I crank it with the key. Is the relay supposed to be so loud when it engages? The parts guy thinks its the starter. I'm gonna check the grounding before I do anything else.

I don't know if anything else I have written helps you steer me closer to the problem, but if you have anymore suggestions, please let me know.

Thanks again!

Edit:
I tested the ground on the starter and it's fine. Actually, I couldn't find an actuall ground cable, so I check the resistance from the frame of the truck to the casing of the starter and it read 0.00. That seems acceptable to me. I also checked from the battery terminal to the frame and got the same results. Looks like it might be the starter.

 

[410Fortune]

You are a smart man! the starter get's its - from the engine block.
The engine is grounded to the frame and battery with the main - cable.

the starter solenoid can make a loud clicking yes. Putting the truck in P, turn the key to RUN, and use a screwdriver to jump the two posts on the fender mounted solenoid. Does the starter turn?

There are two + wires to the starter, why? Because the starter also has a solenoid built in. The larger wire is the constant 12v + directly from the battery. The smaller wire is the signal from the key via the fender mounted solenoid that tells the starter mounted solenoid to GO.

Check the connection of these two + wires to the starter, I have seen many problems here, I actually SOLDER my signal wire directly to the starter solenoid because I was tired of the male connectors getting loose/dirty/etc.

Also you say the + battery cable is new. Always go back and check the work you did last. I am not saying your new cable is at fault, but check the big power lead to the starter where it meets the battery. Also check the + feed frmo the battery to the fender mouted solenoid. Ford used the lower Solenoid bolt as the attaching point for the power distribution and charging + wires to the battery.

If one of these is bad, bingo.
To eliminate the starter as being bad, jumper the fender mounted solenoid. If it cranks and fires, its not the starter most likely, if it does not....new starter time.

 

[slenser]

Starter did it.

The fender solenoid is the relay I mentioned shorting. I got a little pop or the starter, but it would not turn over. After that, I checked the continuity of the grounds. That's how I decided to buy a new starter (Not to mention everyone's help from this board!)

I didn't build the new cables I recently put on. They were factory made, so I just installed it. Everything was tight as far as electrical connections. The soldering idea is a good one. I will keep that in mind if I have any problems down the road. I know that wasn't the issue with this starter, since it was all clean and tight when I pulled it off. It now turns over MUCH faster when starting. Even my wife commented on it.

I guess today was a nice day to work on a car. It's January in IA at 62 degrees right now.

Now I have to look at that garage door opener!

Edit:

Again...THANK YOU!!!

 

[Metallic 1986]

so i had the sdame problems and went through the same thing except i bought anew battery when i didn't need to [$150 down the drain] but now the new starter won't 'dis-engage' once started... has anyone else has this problem? could it be a fudged starter?

any help appreciated guys - cheers

 

[marragtop]

$150 for a battery...?? Hope that's Canadain, not US $$...

 

[Pgervai]

Any suggestions on how to easily remove the starter? I have a '92 with the same issue. Looked under truck and it looks tight. Does anyone have any helpful tips?

 

[Positive Vibes]

The starter is pretty easy to replace, I do have a lift which I'm sure helps with clearance but its only two or three bolts. No helpful tips, its pretty staight forward. I would advise buying a Chiltons manual if you don't already have one.

Metallic, I would have the starter tested or just replace it, somthing is not right with the starter or the solinoid. Do you replace it or did a shop do it?

 

[Metallic 1986]

I bought the starter at Canadian Tire - yup i'm a canook wannabee... [a britt in canada lol] and its just not workin right... i replaced it myself... and i've taken it off and put it back on and i even had one of my tool n die buddies make me some shims... but the same problems occuring... i took it one of my auto mechanic shops and the guy was just baffled... so yah we have no idea whats wrong and its getting hard to do stuff with no vehicle...

any help appreciated guys - cheers

 

[Positive Vibes]

Well if the starter never worked properly why don't you bring it in and have them replace it??? Did the starter come with a new solinoid?

 

[Metallic 1986]

yah it did, came as a set i suppose, didn't really think about it... but they definately came together... decided i'm gonna take it back - thank you for the push.

 

[Pgervai]

Thanks for the advise. Clearance was tight for my chest but after breaking loose bolts that have not moved in 13 years it was a "piece of cake" to replace.