Help! Where to buy c-clip, splined washer for axle shaft

[Dannyboy]

Final solution, go to junkyard and pulled 10 of them. Plenty of spares now and if anyone ever needs one and doesn't have junkyard access PM me, I'll part with a few of them.

 

[jasongordert]

retaining clips

I need these two parts. I call them a c-clip and a splined washer

I hate to say it, but I don't know what they're called, where to get them or a Ford part number. I've gone to a few FORD parts counters to try to buy them and the guy basically has told me that he needs the model number on the diff tag (which I do not have) to look up any parts and that the VIN doesn't do him any good.

SO for the record

Part-
part number-
where to buy-

Thanks Ted (as I've got a bet with myself that you will be the first to give me the answer)

hello i have ford ranger 1992 i recently changed out my ball joints in process in putting it back together i found out my axle was not sticking enough for the four wheel drive so i am assuming i did not have a retaining clip and wondering what these look like and where i might get these

 

[Tbars4]

...This thread has pictures and all the info already...Did You read this thread through first or did I miss something???..:scratch:

 

[Four0Sport]

i just stopped by my local stealership who happened to have one of the washer packs in stock.. the splined washer is alot thinner than the one I am taking off the truck, is this going to have any effect? or will using the other 2 with it compensate?

 

[Tbars4]

...The splined washers are a "Variable" part so they tend to be of different thickness's..

...I would imagine the Warn ones are thicker but I have found a variety of thickness pulling them off stock Explorers..

...I prefer the thicker ones...When I was having spindle nut problems the thin ones would bend so they were a pain to get off...I did not have that problem once I started using the thicker washer...It got tested a couple times before I finally resolved the problem..

 

[Scott B.]

Looky what I found!

Here is the thrust washer that has been eluding us! Tousley Ford found the number for me, based on my VIN number.

I ordered 4 of these, to make sure I don't run out!

 

[RangerX]

Nice! What are they charging you?

 

[Tbars4]

Nice! What are they charging you?

...X2...and was there a difference in thickness's while you were shopping for them?

 

[Scott B.]

Nice! What are they charging you?

$10.00 each.

As for the thickness, the parts guy only told me he found this one (via my VIN) - he didn't say anything about there being others.

But wait - there's more!

I think I have determined what caused the destruction of the thrust washer on my truck!

Pictures to follow...

 

[Suppo83]

Hello,

does anybondy knows where I can order those parts? clip and washer. We don't have these cars in junkyard in Finland.

 

[Scott B.]

Hello,

does anybondy knows where I can order those parts? clip and washer. We don't have these cars in junkyard in Finland.

Tousley Ford - they are a vendor here.

 

[Suppo83]

Thanks, I placed order from Tousley.

 

[Roadrunner777]

After paying full dealership price for these, I vowed to find them on-line, and found a cheap source. I have found the splined spacer for $2.04, and the snap rings for 68¢.

The spacer is a slightly different design. The older spacer has a tooth for each spline groove. This one has only 6 teeth, in pairs, spaced around the inside diameter. I slid one on an axle yesterday and it was a good fit. I'm not sure if fewer teeth matter... it seems to me like there shouldn't be much force on this washer, but I have read some people have dished them. Anyway, for $2, maybe it's worth having a couple in the toolbox.

www.diffsonly.com

Axle spacer (they call it a spindle washer) WRN37891 $2.04
Snap ring DS42768 $0.68

It appears they only ship UPS, so I would look around the website for any other bits you might want.

 

[Shane Cook]

After paying full dealership price for these, I vowed to find them on-line, and found a cheap source. I have found the splined spacer for $2.04, and the snap rings for 68¢.

The spacer is a slightly different design. The older spacer has a tooth for each spline groove. This one has only 6 teeth, in pairs, spaced around the inside diameter. I slid one on an axle yesterday and it was a good fit. I'm not sure if fewer teeth matter... it seems to me like there shouldn't be much force on this washer, but I have read some people have dished them. Anyway, for $2, maybe it's worth having a couple in the toolbox.

www.diffsonly.com

Axle spacer (they call it a spindle washer) WRN37891 $2.04
Snap ring DS42768 $0.68

It appears they only ship UPS, so I would look around the website for any other bits you might want.

I got the parts from a junk yard. I had to buy the whole hub, but so be it. My problem is, for some reason now, when I try to put the washer on, it covers the place to put the C Clamp. Did the spindle suck back in or what? Why do I not have enough room to slide the washer past the grove to put the C Clamp?

 

[Tbars4]

Pull the shaft with your fingers while pushing the washer forward. While still pulling on the shaft and after slipping the washer past the unthreaded slot, insert c clip..

 

[gmanpaint]

If the spindle was rebuilt with new seals, and the wrong seal was used, it could be the reason, and caused the old "Short Shaft Syndrome".

 

[Shane Cook]

If the spindle was rebuilt with new seals, and the wrong seal was used, it could be the reason, and caused the old "Short Shaft Syndrome".

Gotcha, what do I do. I tried to take of the spindle but seems to welded on. Probably from riust

 

[gmanpaint]

Gotcha, what do I do. I tried to take of the spindle but seems to welded on. Probably from riust

Well, if you haven't removed it to rebuild it, then the wrong seals is not the issue. Like T-Bars said, pull on the end of the axle shaft, and see if it comes out enough to install the retainer clip. Can try a thick rag and vise grips, if your careful, to help pull on it. Just don't clamp so tight, as to damage the splines.

To remove them is just a matter of elbow grease, a mini sledge, and a good size steel chisel.
After the Nuts & ABS sensor is removed (12pt 6mm 1/4" socket), soak the knuckle/spindle seam with penetrating fluids such as PB Blaster, and hit the face with the sledge & a drift, then work your way around the round Hat, until it either pops free, or the seam splits where you can use the chisel to tap it apart.

 

[Shane Cook]

Awesome think you. Yes it was rebuilt btw. Actually I bought it from a guy that put a 93 Mazda b2000 series on a 93 ranger frame. He made it into a 4 wheel drive. Problem is, the lock in hubs busted first time I put in 4 wheel drive. Could it of been because he didn't have the washer and C clips installed?

Well, if you haven't removed it to rebuild it, then the wrong seals is not the issue. Like T-Bars said, pull on the end of the axle shaft, and see if it comes out enough to install the retainer clip. Can try a thick rag and vise grips, if your careful, to help pull on it. Just don't clamp so tight, as to damage the splines.

To remove them is just a matter of elbow grease, a mini sledge, and a good size steel chisel.
After the Nuts & ABS sensor is removed (12pt 6mm 1/4" socket), soak the knuckle/spindle seam with penetrating fluids such as PB Blaster, and hit the face with the sledge & a drift, then work your way around the round Hat, until it either pops free, or the seam splits where you can use the chisel to tap it apart.

 

[gmanpaint]

I was speaking from a stock perspective. Way to many variables for me to say at this point.

Question tho, when the hubs broke, was it one side or both? When it happened, what type of surface was the vehicle on?