Holy rusted metal, batman! | Ford Explorer Forums

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Holy rusted metal, batman!

turboranger91

Well-Known Member
Joined
October 13, 2008
Messages
536
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11
City, State
Kansas city
Year, Model & Trim Level
94 Eddie Bauer 4x4
Saw a small spot of rust poking out from behind the passenger side side skirt. I've been meaning to pull them off anyway, since I just don't much care for them. That small spot turned into this....

20150511_155332.jpg


No good. Looks like I'll be ordering a replacement dog leg soon. Good thing they're so cheap. Now I just have to learn how to weld! Lol.
 



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I remember when our 94 looked that good... that was about 10 years ago. An option if you just want it to look good for a while is to take some aluminum flashing and cut it to cover the hole. You can use self tapping screws, and then just bed line the bottom so it looks good.
 






I remember when our 94 looked that good... that was about 10 years ago. An option if you just want it to look good for a while is to take some aluminum flashing and cut it to cover the hole. You can use self tapping screws, and then just bed line the bottom so it looks good.
Nah. I'd rather not have to do it again. I'm kind of lazy like that. Lol.
 






It does look better without the side skirts and from valance though... At least I think it does.

20150511_155259.jpg
 






When you get the dog leg just do the prep work get the leg right where you want it and then spend the $50 to have someone with super thin sheet metal experience do the welding.

Totally worth the extra cost. All the labor is in the cutting and prep work. If you knock that out, getting it welded is dirt cheap.

Remember to get some bare metal prep spray so it doesn't flash rust before you get around to doing the filler and primer work.

Rust is like cancer - it spreads - you'll be wanting some Flag rust converter or similar product: https://www.promain.co.uk/product/flag-flag-rust-converter-id3286

You will find rust converters that actually work at boat supply shops not Home depot or the like.

That rust forward of the dog leg and the entire rocker panel can be salvaged with rust converter.

You grind it smooth as possible then apply the converter you can then apply body filler and paint right on the converter.. . it leaves the bare metal black and shiny. Anything that did not turn black needs another shot.

Use a pump sprayer to shoot it inside the rocker and any where else you find rust once you start cutting. You will find more... .

Wire wheels; lots of wire wheels.

Welcome to the ever challenging world of auto body rust repair. Watch any of those restoration shows? remember their delight at the prospect of RUST REPAIR!!! aaaaaaAAAAAAAAAHHHHRRRRRGRGGGGGGGGG!!!!!!!!!
 






Best option to prevent any future rust is to cut away all the rusted parts, weld in the new dog leg and use sheet metal to fab up the rest, then weld all the holes closed, and prime/paint the rocker.

You can also pop off the rubber seals in the back of the rocker and spray in some rust preventative or whatever else you want to use. It's a good idea to have those rubber seals off when welding anyway so the heat and pressure have somewhere to go.

The rockers usually rust because water/salt usually gets into the rocker through the holes that the side skirt attachments use, and it sits in the rear of the rocker and eventually rusts through. Sealing it up so the tires no longer kick water and salt into it fixes the issue.
 






If you weld or someone else does, make sure they use hard wire and not flux core. Make sure they just spot weld it and not run a full bead.
 






Thanks for all the advice, guys. I know my way around an engine like the back of my hand, but when it comes to body work, I'm a total moron. I've only welded once, and let me tell you, that exhaust turned out ugly as hell! I may just buy the dog leg, and take it to a professional to have then do the whole job. It really is a pretty x, and I'd like to keep her that way. Just one of those times that I don't trust my skill level to do the job the way I want it done.

As far as all the rust inhibitors, the only one that I've got personal experience with was back in my coast Guard days. We used a product called ospho. I'm not even sure if that stuff is still around, but it seemed to work alright. Apply, let sit for a day or two, then paint. Anyone have any thoughts on this?
 






That link in my above post is osmosis (Ospho) same stuff we use in the Navy. (With a different civilian name)

. Yes we buy it from the Britt's
 






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