Horrible noise from front end.

[burning_soul07]

I just replaced the splined washer and c-clip on both sides and put both my new manual hubs on. Now I have a horrible noise that I was wonderin g if someone could identify.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wyoqPSLYyoU

 

[shaggymane]

I just replaced the splined washer and c-clip on both sides and put both my new manual hubs on. Now I have a horrible noise that I was wonderin g if someone could identify.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wyoqPSLYyoU

Can't tell for sure what all i'm hearing. Sounds like wind in a microphone noise............ except when you're turning. Is that the noise you wanted us to hear? odd that it sounds like a suspension squeak/groan.

But since it shows up during a turn, likely it's the U-joints in the half shafts that are dry and binding.

I thought there was only one C-clip and that was on the pass side. If that's the one in the pumpkin that you replaced.......dang .......but that's the time to eyeball & replace those U-joints because to remove the whole shaft on that side the C-clip has to come out.

Or maybe I'm misunderstanding what you've replaced.

BTW, how far did you drive on that asphalt with 4X4 on?

 

[burning_soul07]

But since it shows up during a turn, likely it's the U-joints in the half shafts that are dry and binding.


BTW, how far did you drive on that asphalt with 4X4 on?

The dry and binding does sound like a move to go, I am new at the 4x4 stuff and maybe dry and binding is right.

I drive a total of 4 blocks.



The noise that I want you to hear is the noise when I am turning. I only drove around the block just to get the noise when its the loudest. It also made the noise in my grassy backyard. This truck is new to me. I traded my 94 Crown Vic for it and the guy that traded me told me the 4x4 worked. Yes the light came on, but the hubs were both shot and it was missing the parts that went on the shafts on the tire side of the rotor. It is suppose to be inner lock nut the washer with the guide hole, outer locknut, then the splined washer and the c-clip. Both sides were missing the splined washer and c-clip, and also both sides' inner lock nut were missing the pin on them.

Now I got all new parts(the ones that were messed up that I stated above) on both sides of the front trying to get this truck ready for winter here in Omaha.

I put it all back together and locked it in with 4x4 on. Everything works great, I can go up my steep front embankment of grass with no problem, but when I turn the wheels even on a non traction surface the front end makes that noise. To me it almost sounded like my new (Mile Marker) manual hubs grinding on the inside but I took them off and checked them out and all seems fine.

There fore I am here with my audio/video to see if anyone has experienced this type of noise with their xplorer and what it could be.

My 87 S-10 Blazer can go on any pavement with everything locked in 4x4 (factory auto hubz) with out any noise. When I turn in that truck with 4x4 locked it just slows down because everything is working properly.

The Xplorer is for my wife so I don't want the noises to scare her.

Also, I haven't greased or lubed anything yet, I am sort of a noob with this 4x4 stuff.

 

[ragajungle]

it is more than likely worn / binding front wheel joints. Also don't lube the hubs with anything other than ATF. grease in the hubs will cause problems down the road.

 

[shaggymane]

and the guy that traded me told me the 4x4 worked. Yes the light came on, but the hubs were both shot and it was missing the parts that went on the shafts on the tire side of the rotor. It is suppose to be inner lock nut the washer with the guide hole, outer locknut, then the splined washer and the c-clip. Both sides were missing the splined washer and c-clip, and also both sides' inner lock nut were missing the pin on them.

Now I got all new parts(the ones that were messed up that I stated above) on both sides of the front trying to get this truck ready for winter here in Omaha.

My 87 S-10 Blazer can go on any pavement with everything locked in 4x4 (factory auto hubz) with out any noise. When I turn in that truck with 4x4 locked it just slows down because everything is working properly.

yeah, them 4X4's always work when they're being sold. Never seem to work when they're being bought.
I think there's a way to tell if 4X4 works. Find any place off pavement, engage the 4X4 and make a turn. If the vehicle lurches and jerks forward then to the side, it's working. lets see if others disagree.

Ok, after your description it's coming back to me. I haven't had mine apart since last winter.

Never heard of an engaged 4X4 liking dry pavement for very long. that's a new one to me. I wouldn't do it. Definitely don't do it with your Expy.

It's common that people fix the T_case motor and hubs only to find the U-joints funky.

there's threads around here on doing the Pass side, taking the half shaft apart at the spline slip. (so you don't have to pull the jug or deal with that internal C-clip. I don't have tht thread bookmarked.

 

[rhauf]

does it only do it when the 4x4 is engaged or does it happen in 2 wheel drive as well?

next step, does it happen in 2 wheel drive with the hubs locked or only when the hubs are locked?

sounds like it could be a bad U joint in the front axle. or bad bearings inside the hub (for the stub shaft)

is the C clip on the end of the axle shaft? if not maybe its sliding back a little and the u joint is rubbing on the axle beam. look on it for scratch marks/shiny areas.

 

[burning_soul07]

does it only do it when the 4x4 is engaged or does it happen in 2 wheel drive as well?

next step, does it happen in 2 wheel drive with the hubs locked or only when the hubs are locked?

sounds like it could be a bad U joint in the front axle. or bad bearings inside the hub (for the stub shaft)

is the C clip on the end of the axle shaft? if not maybe its sliding back a little and the u joint is rubbing on the axle beam. look on it for scratch marks/shiny areas.

The noise only happens in 4 wheel drive with the hubz locked. If it is in 4x4 without the hubz locked it also doesn't make the noise. If I lock the hubz and drive without it in 4x4 then it doesn't make the noise.

The c-clip is on the ends of the shafts. It is seated properly.

I was looking at aftermarket wheel joints/u-joints and I notices they had a greaser on them, does the factory ones have greasers? Maybe I can salvage the ones that are on there?

 

[ragajungle]

no OEM does not have a zirk fitting. I did these on 2 vehicles so far and the driverside is a cake walk (once you get the spindle hub off) the passenger side is a PITA -- you have to break loose the inner most joint (so actually there are 3 joints to replace) Also a good time to do Ball Joints - Since they will be right there.


EDIT If it does it in 4wd it is the joints

 

[burning_soul07]

So I can only replace the u-joints.... there is no way to grease the existing ones.... Would a can of super grease spray and lock the hubz in with the tire off the ground and have someone spin the tire and turn the tire so I can grease all to end of axis joints work atleast walk it thru winter?

 

[ragajungle]

nah, once it gets to the point were it is binding / clicking and ratcheting you need to just replace them. If you spray grease or lube in them you may get some immediate relief but it will cause worse carnage later ---- as that grease is going to attract road grim salt and the like to it and exacerbate the problem. Unfortunately this is what you get with a 16-17 year old truck. But on the positive side once you do this you'll be good for another 15 years (if you don't go totally cheap on the wheel joints) Honestly a weekend in the garage, some PB Blaster and some will power and you will have saved $1000 bill.

 

[ranger-93]

nah, once it gets to the point were it is binding / clicking and ratcheting you need to just replace them. If you spray grease or lube in them you may get some immediate relief but it will cause worse carnage later ---- as that grease is going to attract road grim salt and the like to it and exacerbate the problem. Unfortunately this is what you get with a 16-17 year old truck. But on the positive side once you do this you'll be good for another 15 years (if you don't go totally cheap on the wheel joints) Honestly a weekend in the garage, some PB Blaster and some will power and you will have saved $1000 bill.

x2

 

[Keeper0311]

Interesting read.

I'm having similar issues with my '00 XLT, when 4wd is engaged and a turn the wheels to full lock I'll get a rubbing noise. When in auto, this is non-exsistant. Would I be correct to assume that I'm having similar issues with my U-joints?

 

[ranger-93]

Interesting read.

I'm having similar issues with my '00 XLT, when 4wd is engaged and a turn the wheels to full lock I'll get a rubbing noise. When in auto, this is non-exsistant. Would I be correct to assume that I'm having similar issues with my U-joints?

you dont have the u joints that are being discussed here, you have cv axles.

if your using 4wd on pavement, DON'T DO IT ANYMORE. it causes bind in the steering cuz the front wheels have to much traction and cant slip.

it probably isnt doing it in auto cuz auto 4wd only sends power to the front wheels when it senses rear wheel slip.

hope this helps.

 

[Keeper0311]

Well thank you for the input. Glad I learned a little something new about my truck.

 

[ranger-93]

Well thank you for the input. Glad I learned a little something new about my truck.

you're welcome and thank you for serving

 

[DeRocha]

nah, once it gets to the point were it is binding / clicking and ratcheting you need to just replace them. If you spray grease or lube in them you may get some immediate relief but it will cause worse carnage later ---- as that grease is going to attract road grim salt and the like to it and exacerbate the problem. Unfortunately this is what you get with a 16-17 year old truck. But on the positive side once you do this you'll be good for another 15 years (if you don't go totally cheap on the wheel joints) Honestly a weekend in the garage, some PB Blaster and some will power and you will have saved $1000 bill.

x2

x3

As stated the U-joints closest the wheels undergo the most articulation (due to steering angles). Over time the seals on the U-joint bearing caps wear and begin to let the lube escape while allowing moisture to enter. The needle bearings just rust out and grind and squeak. If a U-joint were to go while you were driving it could cause a ton of damage and potentially leave you stranded.