Solved How to change SPARK PLUGS on a 4.6L V-8

[JW]

#5 is the front of the engine, on the driver's side. Very easy to get to. Make sure the connector is actually plugged into the coil before springing for a new one.

 

[khandielas]

Hi, all, what brand of ignition coil to use?
I just bought Duralast from autozone, is it good?

Thank you very much.

I got missfire code on cylinder #5 (Mountaineer 2002, V8), is there a way to locate #5 and only change coil and spark plug for this one? I am not very handy and really dare not to mess up more. Thanks.

 

[khandielas]

Thank you very much!!!
What brand ignition coil and spark plug should I use?
I bought Duralast ignition coil from autozone today. The guy in autozone was not quite sure about which spark plug should I use.

2002 Mountaineer V8 4.6.

#5 is the front of the engine, on the driver's side. Very easy to get to. Make sure the connector is actually plugged into the coil before springing for a new one.

 

[khandielas]

Hi, guys, thank you for all the posts.
I managed to changed a couple of spark plugs (motocraft) and ignition coils, now the 'service engine soon' light is off, but I still fell a bit shaky and lack of power when accelerating.

The previous codes are P0305 (cylinder #5 misfire) and P1309 (misfire monitor disabled). When I replaced the spark plugs and coils, I disconnected the battery, so I suppose all the codes are removed.

I have a question, this 'misfire monitor' will be automatically enabled and starts functioning again? or I have to ask dealer to enable it for me? Thank you very much.

 

[Curtis]

Hi, guys, thank you for all the posts.
I managed to changed a couple of spark plugs (motocraft) and ignition coils, now the 'service engine soon' light is off, but I still fell a bit shaky and lack of power when accelerating.

The previous codes are P0305 (cylinder #5 misfire) and P1309 (misfire monitor disabled). When I replaced the spark plugs and coils, I disconnected the battery, so I suppose all the codes are removed.

I have a question, this 'misfire monitor' will be automatically enabled and starts functioning again? or I have to ask dealer to enable it for me? Thank you very much.

You dont need the dealer to enable anything
Codes are read every time you start the truck, so if no codes now you seem to be good. the check engine light could come on again though, just drive it and see.

 

[FordFool2]

The guy in autozone was not quite sure about which spark plug should I use.

Motorcraft Platinum only.

 

[khandielas]

You are right. Now SES light is on after about 70 miles of driving. The code is Cylinder #3 misfire, which does not surprise me.

The dealer told me I need to replace all spark plugs and 1, 3, 4, 5, 7 ignition coils. So far, I replaced 5, 7 plugs and coils, and #1 coil.

The ignition coil and spark plugs on the left side of the engine are very hard to reach, I wonder how you guys did the work? Did you have to remove the tubes/lines/wires on top of the engine, so that you can work on the coil and plugs?

Thank you very much!

You dont need the dealer to enable anything
Codes are read every time you start the truck, so if no codes now you seem to be good. the check engine light could come on again though, just drive it and see.

 

[esclamada]

You are right. Now SES light is on after about 70 miles of driving. The code is Cylinder #3 misfire, which does not surprise me.

The dealer told me I need to replace all spark plugs and 1, 3, 4, 5, 7 ignition coils. So far, I replaced 5, 7 plugs and coils, and #1 coil.

The ignition coil and spark plugs on the left side of the engine are very hard to reach, I wonder how you guys did the work? Did you have to remove the tubes/lines/wires on top of the engine, so that you can work on the coil and plugs?

Thank you very much!

You need to remove the air intake and move the pcv valve hose a little bit. Did you pre-gapped the new spark plugs?


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MY MOUNTY
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[khandielas]

Good day!

I did not touch the plug. The plug I bought is 0.054 gapped, so I think I just use it directly.

I managed to change all except #2. I did loose the air intake a bit to change #3. I will test drive and then report back, since the diagnosis report does not menthion #2, I wish it is still OK.

Next I will try to work on a flange for exhaust if it is possible. The report says this: "Exhaust broken at mid pipe flange" - Quoted parts $60, Labor 211.88.

Do you guys think this 'flange' is also an feasible DIY work? If so, please point me some link, I could not find any in this forum.

You need to remove the air intake and move the pcv valve hose a little bit. Did you pre-gapped the new spark plugs?


-----------------------------------------------------------
MY MOUNTY
http://www.facebook.com/diyfordexplorer?sk=photos

 

[esclamada]

Good day!

I did not touch the plug. The plug I bought is 0.054 gapped, so I think I just use it directly.

Never assume they are gapped correctly, when I did mine the new ones were off and I have to adjust the gap.


-----------------------------------------------------------
MY MOUNTY
http://www.facebook.com/diyfordexplorer?sk=photos

 

[blueoval9erlifer]

If your going to replace one plug might as well replace them all. Make sure to check the gap on all new plugs last time i changed mine they were "pregapped" but no where close to where they should be supposed to be .052 to .054 new were at .040 not close enough for my taste.

 

[khandielas]

OK. I drove about 230 miles already. There is no shaking, no SES light, about 18.5 mpg now (was below 15 before the fix). I did not change #2 coil and plug yet and won't do it unless necessary.

I spent 150 to have Midas fix the broken flange in mid-range pipe. I was told it was welded, so I guess I couldn't do it. Now car runs smooth, no noise, no shaking. I am happy with it. It is 108,000 miles now, hopefully it can deliver 50k more.

Many thanks for you all!

 

[thepotroast]

Just wanted to share my experience here on my newly acquired 03 EB with the V8. Shortly after purchasing the truck and after about 200 miles, I noticed 'skipping' in the engine during any type of incline or acceleration. At first I thought maybe I got some bad gas, as I had just put a full tank of no-name 87 octane in there. So I put a can of Seafoam in the tank and ran through about 3/4 tank to see if it would clear it up. I know the truck was rarely used and had been sitting for about 6 months prior to it being traded into the dealer....the Carfax report shows this in regards to the mileage.

The SES light popped (which I was hoping for....to pull a code) and Advance Auto read it for me and told me Cylinder #6 was missing and it was also throwing a code for multiple misfires on startup. So I went ahead and bought new plugs for it and just finished changing them out. Took about 2 hours, mainly because I was working outside in 20 degree weather and had to take multiple breaks.

Removed the V8 cowl and used the tools described in the OP's post. Each coil pack came off easily and using an assortment of flex joints and extensions I was able to pull the coil packs and plugs off with no issues. I couldn't find any suspect discoloring on any of the plugs, all looked like normal 'used' plugs should. Replaced them with new Motorcraft Platinum plugs (OEM), bolted everything back up and took it out for a 10 mile drive. The 'skipping' stopped and all seems to be well. The SES light is still on, but I attribute that to me not disconnecting the battery and letting the computer cycle. Too damn cold to go do all that right now.

So thanks for the write-up here, it gave me the confidence to do this. The last time I changed plugs on a Ford V8 it was on my Expedition with the 5.4L Triton and was an absolute PITA. I only got 3 plugs into it and had to get it towed to a shop because the fuel rail was completely in the way and I (stupidly) removed it and fuel was going everywhere. Couldn't get it seated back properly and it needed to go to a shop.

I've changed the plugs on my (other) 03 Explorer with the 4.0L before without much of an issue either, so it was nice to be able to do this on the 4.6L V8 with the same kind of results. For what it's worth, the truck has 82K miles and the plugs I'm sure are the originals.

 

[thepotroast]

Just as an update, I mustered the courage to go back outside amidst the possibility of continued frostbite and disconnected my battery for about 5 minutes to allow the computer to reset. Reconnected and the SES light was gone. I've driven the truck 5 different times since replacing the plugs yesterday, about 100 miles total. No skipping and no SES light coming back on.

Seems like I averted the issue by just replacing the plugs, thankfully it wasn't something more!

Thanks again for the write up

 

[racinjason68]

When I did my plugs I used a small piece of rubber hose that I sealed up to my shop vac hose to suck out all debris in the plug hole, then I sprayed a bit of stuff similar to pb blaster down the hole. I cracked each plug loose and let set for about 5 minutes. All come out without a problem. This also worked great on my 5.4 triton in my pickup. No broke plugs and no trash in the hole.

Oh as for reaching the plugs in the hole if you don't have a rubber boot plug socket, I used a magnet on a stick. Pulls them out just fine. Take your time and it will be smooth sailing. Sorry to revive an old thread.

 

[apenland01]

Great idea!!

When I did my plugs I used a small piece of rubber hose that I sealed up to my shop vac hose to suck out all debris in the plug hole, then I sprayed a bit of stuff similar to pb blaster down the hole. I cracked each plug loose and let set for about 5 minutes. All come out without a problem. This also worked great on my 5.4 triton in my pickup. No broke plugs and no trash in the hole.

Oh as for reaching the plugs in the hole if you don't have a rubber boot plug socket, I used a magnet on a stick. Pulls them out just fine. Take your time and it will be smooth sailing. Sorry to revive an old thread.

I have a shop vac attachment that would work for this too, thanks for the idea!

My 2005 EB Explorer 4.6L V8 got new plugs, boots, fuel filter and serp belt back in April 2012 with 99k miles (original everything). I had the job done at a local shop and it was a little over $400 with parts and labor for all the tune-up stuff (was short on time, worth the money).

They used Autolite Platinum plugs and my Explorer liked them very much, so I'll likely be buying Autolite plugs again. I've never had a problem with Autolite plugs and I don't see a reason to change now.

Anyway, now I have 169k on it and I'm going to tackle this tune-up job myself this time around, since I have a bit more time on the weekends.

It isn't running badly, although it has a very occasional rough idle for a few minutes every now and again. However, I like to be on top of the preventative maintenance stuff and this sounds like a fairly easy job.

The way I see it, I'll save hundreds of dollars in labor costs, so it'll be a good weekend project on Saturday.....

 

[apenland01]

Follow Up

So I got one plug changed this afternoon.......it took an hour, including the first 20 minute run to the hardware store.

I bought AutoLite XP104's and gapped them all to .054 (only 2 of the 8 were pre-gapped correctly and 1 was at .048 out of the box). I bought NGK CPB-FD001 boots, which came with new springs and a packet of dielectric grease for each one. Got all of it from rockauto for $92 shipped.

I had all the tools except the swivel socket, so I thought I would try without one. After I vacuumed out the manifold area and then used my little compressor to blow out anything left, I removed the air intake and realized you cannot get the back passenger plug without the swivel socket. The angle is just slightly too much. So I hopped in my sons truck and went to the hardware store to get a 3/8" drive swivel socket. Perfect, I'll be done shortly....

I started with the rear passenger side plug first because it is said to be the hardest. It wasn't that bad after I got the swivel socket.

I didn't remove the plug with the small wires connected to the top of the coil pack. I just removed the 7mm bolt and pulled the boot off the plug, then pulled the boot off the coil.

I connected the new spring to the coil pack and pressed it firmly to seat it. Then I used a Qtip and applied dielectric grease to the inside of the new boots, fed the spring through the boot and pushed it onto the coil pack.

The plug wasn't too tough to get out, I loosened it slightly and sprayed PBBlaster in the hole and gave it about 15 mins to work. Went back and it came right out. I put the new plug in (I put dielectric grease on the porcelain before installing it) and tightened it down to elbow detected 13ft-lbs. Pushed the boot onto the plug and tightened the coil down with the 7mm bolt. Easy peasy.....

Now it got interesting. I moved to the second plug closest to the firewall on the passenger side, since it seemed a bit challenging as well. My 7mm socket is a 1/4" drive and my new shiny swivel socket is a 3/8" drive. I had to use the 1/4" to 3/8" adapter and this is where I ran into the problem. The throttle body is too close to the 7mm bolt to use the adapter, you have to use just the socket with a swivel socket, or you don't have enough room.

I discovered this after my son took his truck to work, so I had to put everything together on my Explorer and drive to the hardware store again to get a 1/4" swivel socket, so I could start the second plug. However, now my engine block is hot, so I've decided to pick it back up again tomorrow when it's cooled off completely.

Anyway, not a bad project, but definitely make sure you have the right swivel sockets to keep a low profile. Otherwise, you will make this take much longer than the 4 beer process it really should be.

Hope this lesson helps others.....

 

[drdoom]

A 6" wobble extension is very good for this job.

 

[apenland01]

Wobble Ext

Great call on the wobble extension drdoom.

I got the other plugs put in and it only took about an hour for the rest of them. The old boots looked fine and I could have probably reused them, but for roughly $30, it can't hurt to have new ones.

To clarify, I spent $92, but that included my plugs, boots and all 3 wiper blades, so the tune-up stuff was just about $70 or so.

She runs nice and smooth on idle and is a little more responsive to the gas pedal.

It was a great hour and half project that took two days, but well worth the effort!

Thanks to those who posted about this project, it was extremely helpful....

 

[Jobert]

The dreaded spark plug blown out

I just bought a 2002 Explorer XLT 4.6 V8 with a spark plug that blew out of the 3rd cylinder back on the driver's side.

It had a prior helicoil installed (that also blew out) so I will be going with the Time-Sert 5600 kit. I did a search but didn't find a thread on the problem (surprisingly) and my question here is this:

Since there's no distributor on this engine, is there some way for me to determine where the engine presently sits in its firing order? I need to make sure that both valves are closed on the relevant cylinder, so it would be nice to know where I am in the firing order as it presently sits.

Thanks.