How to check LSD and auto hubs | Ford Explorer Forums

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How to check LSD and auto hubs

George1

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Hi everyone:
first of all I am from Germany so please excuse my english but I am still learning.
Recently I had a strange loud noise under my explorer when I was cornering into my driveway. It sounded like cracking/breaking metal. I was very slow 1-2 mph and stopped immediatly, disengaged the transmission and looked underneath the car for damaged driveline components. Evereything seemed ok though. So I decided to do a test ride (even in 4Hi/4Lo for about 50 feet) but the noise was gone. The next day however I noticed the car leaking transmission fluid. I took the car to the dealer to inspect the all driveline components. They reported only a missing or damaged sealing from the transmission. But I was not so sure about that and checked again. It seems that the LSD is not working anymore (jacked one wheel up-it spins and spins...) and the front differential is leaking oil at the driveshaft. I have no idea what have happend - (perhaps the 4Hi mode was activated by an electronic failure; switch however was in Auto position). But should not the dealer be able to figure that out? They charged me 500$ for the 45k inspection and some other things (cleaning engine and !transmission service!).
Should I go back to this dealer and tell them to do the repair again or should I simply try another dealer. The car is under extended warranty. Perhaps you can give me some advise.
Thanks George
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98 EB sohc 45k
 



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Welcome to the site George.

If your vehicle is under warranty, take it to a dealer and have them fix everything to your satisfaction, it doesn't cost you anything except for time. Point everything out to them so they can fix those problems before your warranty goes out.

I remember with my limited slip, when I jacked it up and spin one tire, it will still spin. The stock limited slip differential is extremely weak and the clutch plates usually wear out within a year or two of normal usage. If you were anticipating the lifted tire to not spin at all, you're thinking of a differential with a locker.

The $500 you paid is probably for the basic tune up at the 45k interval (oil change, ari filter change, lubribcation, brakes, etc.). The dealer won't do anything you don't ask for unless they know they can charge you an arm and a leg for it.

Good luck with the repairs.
 






Thanks for the reply,
I think I will go to a different dealer have this diff fixed.
Are those Auburn diff really that much better? It seems that many people on this site have good experiences with Auburn so far. Would a limited slip in the front make a big improvement, or is it just for serious wheeling?
George
BTW This is a really interesting site.
 






I don't know if anyone on this site is running the Auburn in the front, or even if Auburn makes one for the front (Dana 35 reverse).

A few are running with the Auburn in the rear and really like it.

You're gonna love this site like all of us here. The majority of the people here are extremely helpful and some are extremely knowledgeable.
 






Vigates George,
Like Khoa said "Welcome to the site". Dead Link Removed
I see that you have a 98, which means that there is nothing that is available to put in the front differantial. Without being able to engage and disengage your hubs, you would not want to put any sort of limited slip or locker in your front differantial anyway.Dead Link Removed
95+ models have solid hubs, which means that the gears in the diff and the front drive shaft are always turning when you move, unlike the pre 95 models that have either autohubs or manual hubs, which can be engaged or disengaged so only the wheels spin and not any other part of the drivetrain. The stock limited in the back doesn't last very long, so unless you want to have it changed all the time, put a Auburn in. Hope this helps. Dead Link Removed
 






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